First try on a belt sander

M

Mobalized

Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
14
I had free range for the most part of my brother-in-law's machine shop today and decided to try to make a knife on his 2x72. This is what I made outta D2 and am wondering if it is good enough to salvage lol? I know near the edge in one small section I have a bit of what I'd deacribe as a low spot (it's actually just slightly off angle compared to the rest but there is material there) and my bevel isn't perfectly parallel to the edge the whole length.
29oigi8.jpg
zn4n5u.jpg
 
Last edited:
The design needs some refinement, but for your first blade that doesn't look like too bad a grind. My first was far worse.
Do about 20 more and you'll start to get a good feel for it. :)
 
was the stock sawed from a slab of steel? if so you will have a hard time keeping the top of your grind parallel with the edge because of the deep grooves from the saw. nice first grind.
 
After hand sanding to clean it up and HT do you guys think it's salvageable as a knife with the spot along the blade edge?

Also there were no deep grooves.
n17xhc.jpg
 
Last edited:
It hasn't been HT. I'm saying once the knife has been hand sanded and HT do you think this will come out specifically from sharpening. It's just the spot where the angle is too sharp which causes a thin spot in that area. The edge is still like 40 thou at the thin spot.
o6g21t.jpg
16li4xt.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would suggest making the blade just slightly smaller so that you can get above where that high spot is. Instead of trying to free hand it completely I would suggest mounting a work rest and make sure it is 90 degrees to the flat platen. make sure you have a clear line drawn where you want to take the edge and grind just up to it. Then go back to grinding your bevels and take the edge to about the thickness of a dime prior to heat treating. Just my two cents.
 
drysideshooter said:
I would suggest making the blade just slightly smaller so that you can get above where that high spot is. Instead of trying to free hand it completely I would suggest mounting a work rest and make sure it is 90 degrees to the flat platen. make sure you have a clear line drawn where you want to take the edge and grind just up to it. Then go back to grinding your bevels and take the edge to about the thickness of a dime prior to heat treating. Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

That seems like a good solution. I threw pictures on the last post trying to show the problem spot better as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top