First use of Spyderco Sharpmaker

Yeah I may have to get the diamond rods. I just hate not knowing what I'm doing. I have no idea what the factory angle was set on the ZT0566 and whether I'm hitting it or not. I have a cheap 21x loupe but not sure I would know if edge is rounded or not.
 
Check that sharpie again after one pass. If I'm guessing right you are hitting the shoulder of that bevel on the 566. Hence why I said if it's not within sharpmaker limits you are in for a rough night. To fix this daimonds or sic are a must. It just makes it so much faster. You can see if your local stores have any bench stones and then prop it against the sharpmaker rod and work it that way if you like
 
I'll have the diamond rods tomorrow. So, do I just do the same with them, stroke until I get a burr (if i can even tell) and then stroke it off, do that a few times and then on to the brown (medium) and white (fine) stones?
 
Yes do the same procedure minus using the corners on the diamond rods. Keep a light touch and note where that sharpie is coming off at. Remark it if ya feel you need to just for good practice. Once that bur is formed you will know it. It will feel like a tiny wire lip on the opposite side. Then repeat on the opposite side. It will still take awhile but be loads faster now. Once you form an apex you can progress as normal just keep in mind the bur will be smaller and smaller as you go until it's gone. We have all been in your shoes with not really having an idea of what's going on at first but be patient and keep at it and you will be on your way to sharpening everything you can grab.

I'd like to suggest reprofiling it to 20 per side. Sounds like you are greater than 20 already and going down to 15 is going to be painful...it is possible but to keep your sanity I'd do 20 for now and 15 after you get the hang of it...just my opinion though
 
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How do I know when i have formed an apex? From what I understand, the factory edge of the ZT 0566 is 18-22 per side which if I understand correctly is 36-44 inclusive. I am using the Sharpmaker angle of 40 degrees, which should be the 20 per side you're referring to? Right?
 
How do I know when i have formed an apex? From what I understand, the factory edge of the ZT 0566 is 18-22 per side which if I understand correctly is 36-44 inclusive. I am using the Sharpmaker angle of 40 degrees, which should be the 20 per side you're referring to? Right?

The burr is the indicator that the edge has been apexed. Need to verify the burr from both sides; in other words, when it first forms during honing on one side, then hone from the other side until the burr is 'flipped' in the other direction (away from the side being honed). That ensures both bevels intersect the apex flatly and crisply, and therefore the edge is fully apexed.

And you're correct; the SM's '40' setting implies 20° per side.


David
 
You will know when you have formed an apex because you will be able to raise a bur on both sides repeatedly. You were correct about the 20 degree angle. If the angle were any less than 20 degrees u would hAve hit the apex on the 20 degree side. That makes me believe it is more than 20 so u have a few degrees to go before u start noticing improvements.
 
The burr is the indicator that the edge has been apexed. Need to verify the burr from both sides; in other words, when it first forms during honing on one side, then hone from the other side until the burr is 'flipped' in the other direction (away from the side being honed). That ensures both bevels intersect the apex flatly and crisply, and therefore the edge is fully apexed.

And you're correct; the SM's '40' setting implies 20° per side.


David

Oops. I didn't see you answered it before me ha. My bad. Yea when I say 20 degrees I'm meaning 20 per side. Sorry for any confusion
 
Lots of great info here! I go a little different.. I use the method, posted in the video. I create a burr and then work the other side.
Only difference.. I don't normally tend to go past the diamond rods. I just go straight to the strop.
If I didn't strop. I would drop the the medium rods, for a light pressure micro bevel..
By light pressure, I mean barely letting the blade touch the stones or with just the weight of the blade, to slide down.

I have a visual for ya..
Stock grind(on right), 40°(center), and 30°(left)..
9ec5ff693f092bb04b18924e5b4be1a2.jpg

e6c21b3276197541e1f525c327ac935b.jpg

And yes, the old Delica on the left, isn't FFG..
So here's a hollow grind, in stock form.
8acfea37536184fa079bf74f20c223f0.jpg


When you get your diamond rods, and notice the side you start on, getting wider. (At the edge, like the old Delica)
Don't run it all the way to a burr.. Switch sides and work at that..
Then both sides will be uniform, when you start over and are working up a burr.

On wider/thicker blade's.. A 40° angle looks like this.. (Native, on the left)
51e18360bb8528dc2e70bdb8c3cd76b6.jpg
 
Lots of great info in here. I've had my sm for the better part of 6 months and I'm still learning. But I will say that I was able to obtain a mirror edge on my pm2 with the uf stones I got in the mail last week.
Think I'll try the method in the video to see if it cuts down on the time though.
 
The method in the video helps out alot but I wouldn't recommend it until you are certain you can keep a steady angle at all times
 
Just keep practicing. I purchased a Sharpmaker years ago and it took some time for me to become acclimated in how to use it. I noticed my 9.5 inch Wusthof chef's knife was chipping and rolling the edge after cutting things so I distressed the edge to remove the old steel by drawing it perpendicular across the white (fine) stones. It was now dull as hell. I then used the CBN rods to form an apex at 15 degrees per side and monitored the progress after using a sharpie to mark the edge. It took about five to ten minutes to reach the apex on the CBN stones and to slice newsprint. I then used the brown (medium) stones to further refine the edge, followed by the fine and then extra fine stones. The knife is now shaving hair and easily slices magazine paper.
 
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