Fiskars 14" Hatchet

Morablades

Morablades

Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
1,990
Started using mine again and was wondering if there was anyone who has modified theirs? Such as utilizing the hollow handle for storing gear or cord, etc.? Or any other mods?
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I have seen it for that price too. For me a machete is pretty light and a SAK saw cuts wood pretty well. I don't chop/cut wood any thicker than my wrist. That goes for firewood and shelter poles.
I still want it though.
 
The Fiskars is probably my all-time favorite camp tool. It's just fantastic. Great balance, lightweight (by comparison to similar tools), great edge, multi-functional.

I started to 'mod' mine in a few ways, but ended up taking it back to normal. I don't like putting things in the handle as it tends to screw up the balance for me, and that's really annoying.

Got mine for around $20 from Meijer here, worth several times that. It's what I always recommend first when someone says they need a new hatchet/chopper.
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Every time I go to the Lowell's they are gone. I really want to pick one up as well. I have felt one in hand and they are relatively small but I think are real sharp for a production hatchet.
Spooky, what the heck is that purple wood in your pick? It looks cool!
 
Good ole' Kintucky cedar! :D Probably my absolute favorite campfire wood. I really enjoyed the contrast so I snapped a picture.
 
I think the Fiskars Hatchet, due to the hollow handle, feels more like a hawk to me than anything. I am able to get mine shaving sharp to take care of some of the duties that would require a knife in case my knife gets lost or something. The only mod I did was grip tape, which helps me a lot. I think all I'm going to do is shove some paracord up into the handle. That wont throw the balance off much.
 
I have the 8" Gerber pack ax, basically the same thing just smaller. I put a BSA hotspark on a lanyard with a striker and some jute, on top of some cotton balls I stuffed in there. The striker sticks to the magnetic knife holder just fine and even with lots of chopping nothing has come loose. I do want to cap it somehow though, to keep moisture out of my tinder and off my ferro rod.

Beckerhead
 
beckerhead said:
I have the 8" Gerber pack ax, basically the same thing just smaller. I put a BSA hotspark on a lanyard with a striker and some jute, on top of some cotton balls I stuffed in there. The striker sticks to the magnetic knife holder just fine and even with lots of chopping nothing has come loose. I do want to cap it somehow though, to keep moisture out of my tinder and off my ferro rod.

Beckerhead
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How do you like that axe? I have seen it a few times and always thought that it would be a serious knuckle buster. I have never known anyone that owned one so I thought I would ask you.
 
AustinTXShooter said:
How do you like that axe? I have seen it a few times and always thought that it would be a serious knuckle buster. I have never known anyone that owned one so I thought I would ask you.
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I used to have it and you are right, it is a knuckle buster. Not really something I liked using after 8 hours of backpacking. I switched over to the longer Gerber Gator with built in saw, and it felt much better to me, but a lot of people like the short one. I have since ditched both for the pocket chainsaw when I need to cut wood.
 
No problems at all actually. I keep it shaving sharp, and while I have used it on some oversized stuff at first to check it out before accepting it into the "dependable" category, I use it for splitting/chopping stuff up to about 4"-5" on average. It is a mad man at kindling splitting and shaving nice thin curls for fire starting, and can make a pretty mean fuzzstick. I have used the poll to split with wooden wedges as well.
No bloody knuckles or busted fingers. I usually choke up on most hatchets anyway so to me its about the same to be honest.

I will rough sharpen on a fine Norton India, then strop on 1000, then 2000 wet dry paper, and finally strop on a board backed leather strop charged with green compound. The rather soft steel sharpens super easy and strops slick as glass.
 
Diamond Dog said:
Every time I go to the Lowell's they are gone. I really want to pick one up as well. I have felt one in hand and they are relatively small but I think are real sharp for a production hatchet.
Spooky, what the heck is that purple wood in your pick? It looks cool!
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Most stores are going to be getting their seasonal spring items in soon if they haven't started already. Within a month or so you should be able to find one somewhere. I looked at the Meijer where I usually do my grocery shopping last weekend, and they have a few on the shelf.

As to the OP, I tried wrapping the handle but decided that I didn't like it so I went back to the plain handle. I do need to get my butt in gear and make a better cover for it sometime soon. I'm not sure if I want to try something with kydex or just try to stitch something together with some of the scrap leather that I have around.

Incidentally, I find my Mora 521 to be a perfect companion for my Fiskars. Add in a SAK with a saw (Like the Hiker I've got pictured) and you've got a nice modern Nessmuk trio that won't break the bank.

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beckerhead said:
No problems at all actually. I keep it shaving sharp, and while I have used it on some oversized stuff at first to check it out before accepting it into the "dependable" category, I use it for splitting/chopping stuff up to about 4"-5" on average. It is a mad man at kindling splitting and shaving nice thin curls for fire starting, and can make a pretty mean fuzzstick. I have used the poll to split with wooden wedges as well.
No bloody knuckles or busted fingers. I usually choke up on most hatchets anyway so to me its about the same to be honest.

I will rough sharpen on a fine Norton India, then strop on 1000, then 2000 wet dry paper, and finally strop on a board backed leather strop charged with green compound. The rather soft steel sharpens super easy and strops slick as glass.
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Thanks for the info. While I certainly don't need another hatchet, I may pick one up just to play with since they are not very expensive.
 
is the Fiskars hatchet covered with a rubber thingy? I cant tell from the catalog photos, but it looks like it would fray and split after a good choppng session or so. Or am i wrong and thats a solid handle?
 
The handle is hollow, but (IIRC) is just injection molded around the head. I was concerned initially too that the plastic wouldn't withstand the blows where it joins the head, but after you use it for a while you realize how much it can handle. I'm not concerned at all about longevity in the Fiskars at this point.

Actually, I'm not sure I've ever seen a single thread/report/photo of someone breaking a Fiskars, and definitely not in normal use.
 
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