Fiskars Hatchet

[clembrewer]

http://www.fiskars.com/US/Garden/Product+Detail?contentId=85474

Has anyone tested this? I picked one up at Wal Mart for about $15 last year and I have been blown away by the quality and performance of this little hatchet.

I was able to get it hair flinging sharp with just a few strokes of a diamond steel, and it stays sharp! Nice handle with the flared bottom grip. Cuts wet and dry wood like mad! It will rust too, so it is not cheap stainless steel.

Any opinions?

 

[Jagged]

Good little hatchet. I like mine. I have 4 models spanning from that one to the big axe.

Two things that bug me about that entire line though. The plastic around the head gets beat up with enough chopping. It would be better if the metal were indented some in that area so plastic would be protected. Also, the hammer portion of the heads are not flat. They have a stupid molding line down the middle that helps ensure they glance off the stake or whatever your pounding into your knee / shin / etc.. Both those deficiencies should have been prevented in design. That is frustrating as they are great otherwise.

 

[harpers ferry]

I have a small Fiskars axe with @ 25" handle. What I like is that with this axe you can swing like a baseball bat and get some velocity. It is top notch. I liike to swing fast not heavy. YMMV. I may try to find your Fiskars hatchet for kindling as I did not know it existed. The axe is so damm nice and I don't use the term loosley! Lucky for you that you can get a decent hatchet at your local WW!

 

[KFSpud]

I bought one too and I love it. I actually filled the hollow handle with a small outdoorsman's kit and some cordage. Mine is an awesome tool for the price.

 

[skunked]

Mine is pretty nice, better at chopping than spliting tho..and like said the plastic around the head does get beatup pretty badly.

 

[IntheWoods]

I use fiskars axes exclusively, out here in the woods.

They are a steal.

Look for a Fiskars roll sharp to maintain the edge. Which is a double ceramic wheel device which matches the primary bevel from the factory (30 degrees).

Using this tool, having to re-sharpening is a rare thing indeed. And thinning out the secondary bevel by oversharpening is much less likely.

As for the molding line, this is not a molding line. It is a hammer forge line. It's relatively easy to buff this line off with a sander and hi alumina sandpaper.

As for the handle getting beat up. Perhaps this is due to your techique that is out of whack. A slow, careful motion is more accurate and a whole lot safer than just whacking away. Axes are meant to be struck against the head, not the handle.

But if it makes you feel better while you are learning accuracy, see if you can loosen the head by striking the handle, or the part that holds the head (I've never heard of this happening). Then send it back to fiskars. They will send you a new one, or attach a new handle at their factory.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

As for the handle getting beat up. Perhaps this is due to your techique that is out of whack. A slow, careful motion is more accurate and a whole lot safer than just whacking away. Axes are meant to be struck against the head, not the handle.

The handle wraps around the head, if you get enough penetration the wood will contact the handle as he noted. If the head was recessed and the handle flush as he also noted this would not be a problem or at least keep the band back from the throat. You could likely fix it by using a really strong epoxy and then sanding it to get a smooth taper from head to handle.

-Cliff

 

[IntheWoods]

The handle wraps around the head, if you get enough penetration the wood will contact the handle as he noted. If the head was recessed and the handle flush as he also noted this would not be a problem or at least keep the band back from the throat. You could likely fix it by using a really strong epoxy and then sanding it to get a smooth taper from head to handle.

-Cliff

Yep that's right. Perhaps we're talking about the same thing in a different manner.

On my pro chopping model axe, the head has an extension meant to defect the chop away from the head/handle connection. I have found this to be effective along with the much larger heads of the axes.

The smaller hatchets lack this feature.

My hatchet has some minute dings in this area(head/handle juction) from a few years of hard use, but nothing I consider problematic except in a cosmetic sense. But then I'm quite careful when using it for obvious reasons.

If anyone has significantly damaged a fiskars or Gerber axe handle or head/handle junction in this manner, I would be interested in hearing the circumstances behind it.

I'm aware that Fiskars states that in this regard the axe head is guaranteed to never loosen, and the handle is to be considered virtually unbreakable in normal use (I doubt throwing it in the furnace is covered).

But I am not aware of anyone that has had to utilize this warranty or how fiskars handled it. It would seem to be an easy process to reinstall a new handle at the Fiskars facility in Findland if one was in Europe (a very big and expensive machine). But in the case of a consumer in the US I'm sure it would be simpler and cheaper for Fiskars USA to just replace the axe.

 

[TLM]

But I am not aware of anyone that has had to utilize this warranty or how fiskars handled it. It would seem to be an easy process to reinstall a new handle at the Fiskars facility in Findland if one was in Europe (a very big and expensive machine). But in the case of a consumer in the US I'm sure it would be simpler and cheaper for Fiskars USA to just replace the axe.

The handle can be broken in the standard way of the scouts . Get it stuck on a stump, then try to loosen it with a sideways kick on the handle, voila - a broken handle.

The handle is injection molded on to the head, while a repair is possible I doubt it has ever been done.

TLM

 

[Bladewolf]

I like mine. Light, and it rides comfortably in a shoulder rig when I don't have room enough on my belt, or when I'm riding my Quad.

 

[Jagged]

I edited this post to make it nicer. At first, I took offense to InTheWoods' post which assumed/implied I may not have much real world experience using axes, poor technique, and etc. I have decades of experience, good technique, and know what I am talking about.

My point was that they are good hatchets/axes, but have two DESIGN/PROCESS flaws that could be / should be corrected. I stand by that assessment.

I frankly don’t care whether it is a molding line or forging line. The line shouldn’t be there and may cause the head to glance off whatever you are striking.

I never mentioned about the handle getting beat up. It is where the plastic wraps around the head. I first noticed the plastic getting beat up when chopping through ice for cattle. It also happens when chopping wood (chopped an 8-10" diameter hickory tree off cattle fence last weekend). As Cliff indicated, it is a matter of penetration. The head should have been recessed slightly so that this would not occur.

I think we all agree that they are good tools. In my opinion, they could be great tools with some improvements that might have been extremly easy during design / process development and likely would have added nothing / minimally to the cost.

 

[TLM]

The head should have been recessed slightly so that this would not occur.

By my logic the handle should be recessed or the head raised. There exists a model where the head is shaped in a slightly different way so that it might protect the moulding better.

I have been using these since they came to the market (about 15 years) and have not had that kind of problem but then again it is not impossible for it to happen.

TLM

 

[IntheWoods]

The handle can be broken in the standard way of the scouts . Get it stuck on a stump, then try to loosen it with a sideways kick on the handle, voila - a broken handle.

The handle is injection molded on to the head, while a repair is possible I doubt it has ever been done.

TLM

Have you ever broken a fiskars axe handle in this manner?

My understanding is the reinforced nylon handle doesn't break in the traditional sense. Like those confounded cassette and CD holders at retail music stores it simply bends if enough pressure is applied.

As well, the handle is high pressure injected around the head. The force required to loosen the handle head connection is such that absent a specific hi temp machine or melting it off, the head/handle bond is almost failure proof in normal use.

To replace the handle, one would need to return it to the manufacturing facility Fiskars Finland factory. However, I firmly believe that Fiskars would not attempt to repair the product, but would just replace it instead. As this would be much easier.

But then if anyone is worried about it, and isn't inclined to believe those here who have used these axes extensively, there's always estwing. And the increased carry weight and maintenance required of such all steel tools. Ah, and let's not forget the handle which is also mechanically connected.

Perhaps Cliff would consider testing the Fiskars axe or hatchet. And seeing specifically how much force/abuse is required to render it unservicable.

 

[IntheWoods]

I edited this post to make it nicer. At first, I took offense to InTheWoods' post which assumed/implied I may not have much real world experience using axes, poor technique, and etc. I have decades of experience, good technique, and know what I am talking about.

My point was that they are good hatchets/axes, but have two DESIGN/PROCESS flaws that could be / should be corrected. I stand by that assessment.

I frankly don’t care whether it is a molding line or forging line. The line shouldn’t be there and may cause the head to glance off whatever you are striking.

I never mentioned about the handle getting beat up. It is where the plastic wraps around the head. I first noticed the plastic getting beat up when chopping through ice for cattle. It also happens when chopping wood (chopped an 8-10" diameter hickory tree off cattle fence last weekend). As Cliff indicated, it is a matter of penetration. The head should have been recessed slightly so that this would not occur.

I think we all agree that they are good tools. In my opinion, they could be great tools with some improvements that might have been extremly easy during design / process development and likely would have added nothing / minimally to the cost.

I'm not sure what purpose it serves to take anything that occurs here personally. After all I don't know you. But if it makes you feel better, I'm sorry I insinuated you might not be a skilled user or less than careful about your technique.

But I do know Fiskars axes. And I simply don't have a problem with the design. Truly K.I.S.S. philosophy.

The axes do have an additional ridge built into the head meant to deflect the axe away from the head/handle junction. It works well. After all they are intended for heavier work than the hatchets.

The hatchets of course do not have this feature forged into the head.

As for the forge line in the rear of the head, certainly fiskars could very easily grind these off. But since there are much better tools to be using as a hammer. Specifically those designed and tempered as such, I'm not sure Fiskars encouraging the average Joe to use it as a hammer is a great idea. After all these axes are also marketed to the average home owner as well.

Nice to have the option to use it as a hammer if absolutely necessary though. And it sure beats the heck out of a rock. Like I mentioned above, if the end user desired, and is experienced sanding or grinding this line off is a fairly simple thing to do if you desire a customized tool.

Otherwise you're much better off using a tool designed to hammer to hammer, instead of one designed to chop.

Hey, I've got an idea. Why don't we sharpen our hammers claw so we can use it as an axe.:jerkit:

 

[Cliff Stamp]

After all they are intended for heavier work than the hatchets.

It isn't a case of heavier work, simply depth of cut, so thick wood chopping, or splitting are concerns. Both are recommended uses of hatchets in general which are just axes with short handles.

As for the forge line in the rear of the head, certainly fiskars could very easily grind these off. But since there are much better tools to be using as a hammer. Specifically those designed and tempered as such, I'm not sure Fiskars encouraging the average Joe to use it as a hammer is a great idea.

The hammer poll on axes is there to use as a hammer, hence the name, Cook writes of this specifically when he compares single to double bit axes, as does everyone when comparing spike to hammer poll tomahawks. It is not intended to be used as a maul, which is what Cook and others will warn about as it doesn't have the reinforced eye of an actual maul and thus it will deform or split under the impacts.

However this isn't a concern on hatchets as they are not heavy enough to deform the eye by hammering with unlike felling axes, though you can do it if you hammer on them with a maul. Even then though it takes a lot of time. I have seen axes "mauled" to death, it usually takes several seasons of wood splitting. Commonly it is used for heads when the handle breaks as almost no one hangs heads anymore so they just become wedges.

Synthetic handles are very durable, the main concern is field replacement compared to taper socketed eyes on traditional handles.

-Cliff

 

[IntheWoods]

Yeah, Cliff no doubt it's nice to be able to whittle a new handle if necessary. The only thing that would be better is to never have too.

As for splitting large pieces of wood, like you point out wedges and mauls work better for this purpose that beating up ones axe. And are the traditional way of doing this for obvious reasons. Where ones life often depended upon the serviceability of ones axe. But then this is my opinion. There are many ways of using such tools, some a good idea if Home Depot or Wal-Mart is around the corner, some not, if in the middle of the backcountry or a survival situation. The Fiskars is quite durable enough to hammer appropriate wedges, nails, etc., and split firewood. And is a whole lot easier to carry and maintain that traditional cutting tools.

As for chopping, I just haven't seen a problem with the head connection, except in the cosmetic sense. Now of course some are better at chopping the handle, etc. and abusing their tools than they are at making edge contact with the wood. But this is true of wooden axes as well. I certainly don't have this problem, but I am not Paul Bunyan either.

And I am certainly not trying to suggest the Fiskars axe is the last word on chopping tools, ergonomically, practically, or quality wise. History would indicate this is far from the case. But for the price, IMO it's impossible to beat.

Its an inexpensive tool to manufacture (once the equipment is in place), purchase and maintain, and like you point out quite durable in use.

Heck its construction more resembles something the iceman carried than a traditional axe. And its wedge shaped head, although tough, is less than ideal for some types of more precise traditional axe work. They are certainly worth consideration for anyone in need for such tools, without the means to invest in what's considered the very best of everything, and those without the need for tools to make a historic recreation of the 'alone in the woods' documentary. Which is the category in which I belong.

Maybe at some point if you can get your hands on one cheap, why don't you put it through its paces. And list its strengths and weaknesses. Cold weathers effect on the synthetic handle would be especially interesting. But since this tool was designed in Finland, I have little doubt the handle is weak in this regard.

Fiskars. IMO maximum axe, for minimum fuss.

Comparing traditional axes to the Fiskars/Gerber line is sort of like comparing the 1911 to the Glock. Not much room in the middle. Neither is perfect for everything or everybody. But within their particular limitations they will both get the job done quite nicely.

 

[Jagged]

InTheWoods:

I have better things to do than argue over a minor issue. I stand by my assessment and comments. We’ve made our points. Your apology is accepted.

I think we are looking at it from different perspectives. You look at it and see a darn good tool for $15. That is a valid perspective. I look at it and see a darn good tool for $15; but something which could have been a great tool for $15. That is also a valid perspective. The free marketplace is all about reaching that next level. Fiskars could easily have done that.

There is no need to sharpen our hammers or make a lot of noise. I’m getting back to actual work. First though...

Did you hear the story about the person who bought a chain saw after the salesman claimed he could cut ten truckloads of wood with it in one day? He took it back the next day hopping mad. He had worked for hours and barely managed part of a load. The salesperson checked out the saw and it looked pretty rough. Never-the-less, it started on the first pull. As soon as it started, the customer jumped back and yelled “What’s that noise?”.

I have chopped enough wood with an axe to realize that some of the best axes are made by Stihl and go vroommmm!

Have a good night everyone.

 

[IntheWoods]

InTheWoods:

I have better things to do than argue over a minor issue. I stand by my assessment and comments. We’ve made our points. Your apology is accepted.

I think we are looking at it from different perspectives. You look at it and see a darn good tool for $15. That is a valid perspective. I look at it and see a darn good tool for $15; but something which could have been a great tool for $15. That is also a valid perspective. The free marketplace is all about reaching that next level. Fiskars could easily have done that.

There is no need to sharpen our hammers or make a lot of noise. I’m getting back to actual work. First though...

Did you hear the story about the person who bought a chain saw after the salesman claimed he could cut ten truckloads of wood with it in one day? He took it back the next day hopping mad. He had worked for hours and barely managed part of a load. The salesperson checked out the saw and it looked pretty rough. Never-the-less, it started on the first pull. As soon as it started, the customer jumped back and yelled “What’s that noise?”.

I have chopped enough wood with an axe to realize that some of the best axes are made by Stihl and go vroommmm!

Have a good night everyone.

As you've probably noticed, I sometimes have a way with words.

Nothing intentional or personal about it.

Just direct and to the point, and with enough experience on the internet to assume most don't know, rather than just assuming everyone is Albert Einstein about every topic.

Lord knows I've ruined and beaten to death my share of tools and wood for that matter. And have killed a couple of decent chainsaws building and living in a log house out here in the woods (My wife is too cheap for me to get away with buying a stihl. Poulin here).

I've been quite impressed with the durability of all my Fiskars tools, especially for the price. Although like most things they aren't perfect either. I've found the older you get, much like people, the less perfect they become. I definately fall into that category.

 

[TLM]

Have you ever broken a fiskars axe handle in this manner?

Not personally, I learned a long time ago that a sideways kick to an axe handle is not a good idea. My daugter's troop managed that though and I have seen the results.

The handle is glass reinforced polyamide which is quite a strong and tough material but not indestructible. I don't know the lower transition temps of that material but it can propably take temps down to -50C.

TLM

 

[Wotan]

Have you ever broken a fiskars axe handle in this manner?

My understanding is the reinforced nylon handle doesn't break in the traditional sense. Like those confounded cassette and CD holders at retail music stores it simply bends if enough pressure is applied.

As well, the handle is high pressure injected around the head. The force required to loosen the handle head connection is such that absent a specific hi temp machine or melting it off, the head/handle bond is almost failure proof in normal use.

To replace the handle, one would need to return it to the manufacturing facility Fiskars Finland factory. However, I firmly believe that Fiskars would not attempt to repair the product, but would just replace it instead. As this would be much easier.

But then if anyone is worried about it, and isn't inclined to believe those here who have used these axes extensively, there's always estwing. And the increased carry weight and maintenance required of such all steel tools. Ah, and let's not forget the handle which is also mechanically connected.

Perhaps Cliff would consider testing the Fiskars axe or hatchet. And seeing specifically how much force/abuse is required to render it unservicable.

I almost was brained by an axehead on the loose from a fiskars axe. The handle can break, no matter what the produser claims.
It reminds me of those bacelite stock on the AG3 (assault rifle) we have in the army. They were also indestructible.
Why did so many of them brake off when it was cold (-25 degrees celsius). No force were used to break them either, just snapped right off.

Everything can be broken.