Fiskars Saws Any Good?

Mtn Hawk said:
fir and pine.
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Honestly those don't qualify as hard compared to beech or oak. That said pruning saws work better on green wood.
If you really fear bending you can use them in "draw only" mode (like traditionnal japanese saws).
 
Right Saw company, Wrong Saw.
These are what you want....
ZigSaw.jpg

The wood handled one is a modified Home Depot Purchased version (same blade)
I drilled it out and reshaped the grip for my smallish hand.
I can and have cut 75% of the way through (6") of a 9" diameter seasoned hardwood trunk in 1 minute and smaller softer timber in much less time.
A Busse or machete or similar large knife are great for ONE cut, after which, you'll burn more energy making big firewood than you have in the way of stored calories ;)
The saw is for sectioning, the knives are for splitting.
Nuff said.
 
Ravaillac-- I don't live in an area with beech and I know oak is hard wood but the heat, wind, and dry air of mountain elevations sucks virtually all the moisture out of dead wood. The Fiskars I mentioned works fine on this kind of wood and cuts in both directions.

I don't fear bending, just that it makes the saw unuseable. If I have to worry much about a saw breaking in the wilderness I don't want it.

Moodino-- Nice saw! I've never seen that one. It's more than I need to carry, since I only cut fairly small-diameter branches, but it definitely looks like it could do the job on the bigger stuff. Even though a saw is probably more efficient even on small branches, I often prefer a large chopping knife on wilderness trips for durability, and redundancy and back-up to my 4.5" knife.
 
To each thier own. I have the short one in my 72Hr Pack and the Big one (8 oz) in my Big backpack. If I had to pick between a BIG knife and a saw, the saw would always win as long as there was at least a small knife in the kit.
Indeed, My 72Hr Pack has the small ZigPro saw plus a Mora for ultralight survival. Big (heavy) knives are great to have but I'd never risk their extra weight in a survival pack. Now we're in the 21st Century, had we been talking in the 18th or 19th Century then a Big Arse Bowie knife would be the Bomb fo sure.


Mtn Hawk said:
Ravaillac-- I don't live in an area with beech and I know oak is hard wood but the heat, wind, and dry air of mountain elevations sucks virtually all the moisture out of dead wood. The Fiskars I mentioned works fine on this kind of wood and cuts in both directions.

I don't fear bending, just that it makes the saw unuseable. If I have to worry much about a saw breaking in the wilderness I don't want it.

Moodino-- Nice saw! I've never seen that one. It's more than I need to carry, since I only cut fairly small-diameter branches, but it definitely looks like it could do the job on the bigger stuff. Even though a saw is probably more efficient even on small branches, I often prefer a large chopping knife on wilderness trips for durability, and redundancy and back-up to my 4.5" knife.
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Moodino-- I think we are both talking minimalist and survival here. Saws are great but they can only saw, whereas a chopping knife is much more versatile. Many saws cannot be sharpened. And I do not consider a saw to be nearly as tough and durable as a high-quality chopping knife. Big choppers usually weigh around a pound. I don't consider a knife that weighs just a few ounces more than a saw to be heavy. Most of us constantly carry more than an extra few ounces around our waist. As I said, saws are great but if I could only carry either a saw or a chopping knife, I'd take the knife.

As you said, though, to each his own.
 
Depends on the situation. I like a big blade/little blade combo. But in my smaller kayaks, I try to limit gear weight. Instead of hauling a giant blade like one of those Busse Battle Mistresses, I've opted for a smaller all-around-sized blade (5") and a wood saw. In terms of both weight and length, the smaller items are just easier to stuff in a dry bag and transport. YMMV.

On my bigger kayak, I don't worry too much about gear weight. :p

RiggedYak2.jpg
 
Imalterna,

For me, the Zubat was a better choice than the Sugoi because (if my memory serves me) the Zubat has the much harder impulse hardened teeth (RC67?). The Sugoi is softer steel and much easier to re-sharpen. However, a professional arborist mentioned that he made many thousands of cuts with the 330mm Zubat without the need to sharpen. I just bought a spare blade for my Zubat and figured that would last many years at my level of usage.

DancesWithKnives
 
I've heard good feedbacks about Silky saws but don't yet have tried a one. However i recommend the Bahco Laplander folding saw. Tough and efficient.

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dantzk.
 
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Yes, I understand that the Bahco folder performs very well (I've used some of their other models, which were good saws). I read that the Kershaw folding saws are re-branded Bahco Laplanders (but don't personally know that to be true).
 
DWK2 said:
Yes, I understand that the Bahco folder performs very well (I've used some of their other models, which were good saws). I read that the Kershaw folding saws are re-branded Bahco Laplanders (but don't personally know that to be true).
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They are exactly the same saw, just with Kershaw on them.
 
I have a Fiskars slider. It is the best hand saw of any kind that i have used or seen. IMO it had better/equal quality teeth to an $80 an arborist friend of mine has. Very high value.
 
I picked up the MAECO Silky fixed blade handsaw with the classy wood sheath and wooden handle. It arrived two days ago. I don't like that sliding action-if you just happen to accidentally withdraw the blade full of sap you're going to wreck your saw. You can still find the Fiskars Woodzig around, before this Silky got here it's what I've been using. Nice solid hardwood handle and fantastic blade for many types of wood.
 
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