Fitting scales between slanted bolsters?

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boy&hisdogs

Joined
Dec 9, 2015
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Are there any tricks to help get the angles just right? I working on a RR pocket knife kit (Buck 110 clone) and got my scales in but there is a slight gap on one end where the scales don't quite match the angle of the bolsters. The scale material is carved in the likeness of impala horn so I can't draw on the up-side, and I had the smooth bottom side on the sander table. I used a HF 1x30 and 5" disc combo.

Can I mix the bone dust with glue to make a filler like with wood or would that be a faux paus? It's a small gap, not even a millimeter, but of course since I'm the one that did it, it's the first thing I see.:grumpy:
 
hello, i do tapered tangs, this is how i match the angle of the scale to the guard/bolster. i use masking tape to tape a dime to the work rest. with a pencil, mark a bunch of diagonal lines on the end of the scale that is being sanded. it helps you to only remove enough material to make the scale face the same angle. it may take several tries to get the angle right, checking each time. slide the dime slightly closer or further away each time until the angle is correct, and no gap shows. it is very consistent, i usually make 2 knives at a time, and once i get the first scale correct, the other 3 come out perfect. here is a rough hand sketched diagram. good luck !
 
i think i may have misunderstood your post, i thought you were talking about angled/dovetailed bolsters. hopefully someone will have the correct answer for you.
 
woodster said:
i think i may have misunderstood your post, i thought you were talking about angled/dovetailed bolsters. hopefully someone will have the correct answer for you.
Click to expand...

Well, yes, I was asking about slanted in the other direction but your method is really cool! Regardless of the origoonal queston I'm still glad you posted.
 
Here's a stock photo of the kit I'm working on. While the photo may not show it clearly, the inside edges of the bolsters are not paralell.

rrcs1(1).jpg


This case knife has a more exaggerated version of what I'm talking about.
CA-70490.jpg
 
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Use some clay or play dough to get the shape. Or folded paper. Then you can trace and cut/sand to shape.
 
Take a piece of thin wood or plastic and make a template. Once it fits the bolsters right, transfer to the scales and cut slightly oversize on the ends.

Mark the tempale "V" on the scales such a way that the excess scale wood is on the wide (top) side. This allows sneaking up on the wedge fit as you trim the ends. I shape one end so it is staright and square along the template line, and only trim from the other end as I fit the wedge. The wedge will slowly lower into the space as the end gets reduced

If you have a small 6" disc sander with a 90 degree table, that is a good trimming tool. If it is VS, even better. Trim by hand one file stroke at a time as you get close.

Don't worry about the excess on the top and bottom until the ends fit right. Even then leave some extra to allow any slight adjustment if needed.

Once it fits in place solidly, I clamp one scale firmly in place, and drill through from the other side to mark the screw/pin holes. Repeat with the other side. Finish as normal from there and assemble.


TIP:
Sooner or later there will be some sort of alignment problem after all is drilled and fitted. A gap will suddenly show up on the assembled knife. This can cause bad words to come out of your mouth. While tearing it apart and starting over again will work, try this -
Make a colored spacer to fix the gap ( I like red or black). Take a razor saw and carefully cut down between the scales and the bolsters. Use a blade that is the size of some spacer material ( vulcanized fiber is fine here). If necessary repeat with a wider saw blade like a hack saw blade that has had the set ground off the teeth (the sides sanded/lapped flat). Cut four oversize strips of the spacer material with one straight edge (for the bottom). Rub epoxy on the spacer strips and in the gap, then slide the strips in the gap with the straight side down. Let cure fully overnight and sand them down flush. The end result is a very nice colored line on each end of the scale.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
TIP:
Sooner or later there will be some sort of alignment problem after all is drilled and fitted. A gap will suddenly show up on the assembled knife. This can cause bad words to come out of your mouth. While tearing it apart and starting over again will work, try this -
Make a colored spacer to fix the gap ( I like red or black). Take a razor saw and carefully cut down between the scales and the bolsters. Use a blade that is the size of some spacer material ( vulcanized fiber is fine here). If necessary repeat with a wider saw blade like a hack saw blade that has had the set ground off the teeth (the sides sanded/lapped flat). Cut four oversize strips of the spacer material with one straight edge (for the bottom). Rub epoxy on the spacer strips and in the gap, then slide the strips in the gap with the straight side down. Let cure fully overnight and sand them down flush. The end result is a very nice colored line on each end of the scale.
Click to expand...

This is awesome
 
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