I bought said knife a fixed blade Cattaraugus 225Q at a yard/garage sale for $5 it was in "used" condition the handle is in surprisingly decent shape..has slight rattle/wiggle but nothing bad(no idea how to fix it though...I assume its from the leather shrinking a bit over time) Question is do I leave it as bought, restore it, and if so(restore) how would I go about it?
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Fixed Blade Cattaraugus 225 Q question
- Thread starter CBennett
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Your choice. The War Artifact Police were disbanded in 1967.
Probably the most issued knife in WW II. I have my Uncle's (He was USAAF pilot. Acquired from a Marine for "smokes.") I would not use it due to sentimental factors, but I used another for several years, Tough tool.
As to restoration, many will insist on oil and wiping with paper only - to kill "active rust" (if any).. It's up to you. I would not make it shine. You can buy that every day. This is almost 70 years old and patina is good.
Probably the most issued knife in WW II. I have my Uncle's (He was USAAF pilot. Acquired from a Marine for "smokes.") I would not use it due to sentimental factors, but I used another for several years, Tough tool.
As to restoration, many will insist on oil and wiping with paper only - to kill "active rust" (if any).. It's up to you. I would not make it shine. You can buy that every day. This is almost 70 years old and patina is good.
chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
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Can you post pics and a description of what you might restore?
A rusty blade can be polished, dull edge can be resharpened.
If the leather washers need replacing, you'll need to remove the pommel which may require destroying the pins in order to extract them: http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?t=32026
Once the pommel is removed, you can remove the leather washers and stack new ones into place, reattach the pommel, and grind the leather to shape: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/953911-Restoration-of-Grandpa-s-hunting-knife
If the leather is in good condition & doesn't require replacing, you can use a long needle & syringe to inject epoxy along the tang to eliminate wiggle when it cures, but keep in mind that you need to get enough epoxy in place to fill the spaces along the tang and it will NOT come off when it cures, any future re-handle project will be a b!+ch to accomplish.
Also, AFAIK all Cattaraugus 225Q's were issued from the factory with gouges in the central leather washers to increase retention - those gouges are intentional and even 'mint' specimens include them.
Enjoy that knife, she was built to endure a LOT of abuse and is high quality for a $5 price tag!
A rusty blade can be polished, dull edge can be resharpened.
If the leather washers need replacing, you'll need to remove the pommel which may require destroying the pins in order to extract them: http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?t=32026
Once the pommel is removed, you can remove the leather washers and stack new ones into place, reattach the pommel, and grind the leather to shape: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/953911-Restoration-of-Grandpa-s-hunting-knife
If the leather is in good condition & doesn't require replacing, you can use a long needle & syringe to inject epoxy along the tang to eliminate wiggle when it cures, but keep in mind that you need to get enough epoxy in place to fill the spaces along the tang and it will NOT come off when it cures, any future re-handle project will be a b!+ch to accomplish.
Also, AFAIK all Cattaraugus 225Q's were issued from the factory with gouges in the central leather washers to increase retention - those gouges are intentional and even 'mint' specimens include them.
Enjoy that knife, she was built to endure a LOT of abuse and is high quality for a $5 price tag!
No, its just got VERY slight rust and the typical use scratches. I am thinking of using some leather conditioner on the leather washers there really isnt any damage to them im sure they just got old and shrank..maybe some conditioner will make them swell up a bit and regain a bit of tightness. I will take some pics sometime all my pics are for other sites that allow attachments so they are not on a separate site to link to right now just on my hard drive 
. And yes it needs a good sharpening.
Just a lot of resizing pics and getting then to places thats all I will try though
. And yes it needs a good sharpening.Just a lot of resizing pics and getting then to places thats all I will try though
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Looks like a good user to me, little TLC and it would be ready to go. John
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man, what a steal for 5 bucks! been hunting the bay for a while and the average is between 50-60$ and not all of them look as good as this. Nice catch.
for the leather, no need to destroy pins and remake, just rub a bit of neatsfoot oil, let dry and finish it off with a gentle dose of leather conditioner. It will swell and tighten up. As for the blade, your call but if you don't need the scratches work your way from a medium grit sandpaper (say 400 or 600) up to 1000 or higher if you want it shiny. Personally, I would sand off all scratches up to 800 and then blue it, rubbing with a piece of 1500 grit to even out the color and make the grinds pop. I could send you 10$ for it as is
for the leather, no need to destroy pins and remake, just rub a bit of neatsfoot oil, let dry and finish it off with a gentle dose of leather conditioner. It will swell and tighten up. As for the blade, your call but if you don't need the scratches work your way from a medium grit sandpaper (say 400 or 600) up to 1000 or higher if you want it shiny. Personally, I would sand off all scratches up to 800 and then blue it, rubbing with a piece of 1500 grit to even out the color and make the grinds pop. I could send you 10$ for it as is
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Neatsfoot oil is not "neatsfoot oil compound," a known destroyer of leather.
Success in getting leather handles to "swell" has been mixed at best. Hope it turns out for you.
The knife was not originally blued.
Success in getting leather handles to "swell" has been mixed at best. Hope it turns out for you.
The knife was not originally blued.
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The guy who 'wrote the book" on the knife says 1095.
They were issued "bright."
They were issued "bright."
james terrio
Sharpest Knife in the Light Socket
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$5 is a great deal. I paid $40 for mine and it needs a total re-build and new sheath. It's worth it to me because they're just plain cool.
I would only do what's absolutely necessary... which in this case, probably isn't much. Condition the leather, sharpen the blade and use it like you stole it. :thumbup:
I would only do what's absolutely necessary... which in this case, probably isn't much. Condition the leather, sharpen the blade and use it like you stole it. :thumbup:
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Thanks for promoting my restore job!
