Fixed blade knife with natural handle

This is a custom drop point by one of the finest custom knifemakers around. Sheath included. 2.75” blade ATS-34 stainless. Bone handles 6.25” overall. Under $400

PM me if interested. Not my knife but I can point you in the right direction

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Ron Sabbagh said:
This is a custom drop point by one of the finest custom knifemakers around. Sheath included. 2.75” blade ATS-34 stainless. Bone handles 6.25” overall. Under $400

PM me if interested. Not my knife but I can point you in the right direction

View attachment 1345952
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Yeah I can’t figure out how to p.m. The shape of that knife is almost there but we’re into this too deep to settle for second place. And I don’t think I want a stainless blade. Educate me if that’s a poor statement. If you know of more, can you tell me how to p.m.?
 
Nevada said:
Hey this is great guys. I got her involved and we’ve been doing a lot of scrolling. Good thing I got her to look cause she’s got a particular blade shape in mind if given the choice.

Have a look at Hess ...knives....cheers.

She wants lots of belly and a very mild drop point. She wants a total length not much over 7 inches. GEC actually has a 1095 steel upland hunter model that is the right shape but it is only .127” wide. I don’t think it’ll live through what she’ll do to it. I looked at horsewright’s knives but I didn’t see one that fit the shape. Can anyone give me a hint if there’s a custom knife that fits the bill?
She liked the shape of these:
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Nevada said:
If you know of more, can you tell me how to p.m.?
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You have to be a paying member to send and receive p.m.s, with the exception that Mods can send non paying members a p.m. You can leave a profile post on a members profile, but be aware profile posts are not private. Anyone can read them.

O.B.
 
Does the Kizlyar Supreme Nikki fit the specs? It’s a great little knife and not expensive. I love mine.

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Nevada said:
Wow cool thanks guys. I’ve got a lot to look at. I want to go with a fancier steel out of curiosity. She has a nice long three sided whetstone and used to work in a butcher shop so she can sharpen a knife. Should I look at buying her a diamond stone to go with the new knife? Not trying to change the topic but I’m well aware it will probably be a bear to sharpen. I’m after the edge retention/ toughness capabilities.
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You should. But then what you have to buy is the Coarse Dia-Sharp DMT. Available in 6, 8 or 10 inches long. A must have, regardless the steel you want to sharpen.

Dan.
 
Nevada wrote: "Should I look at buying her a diamond stone to go with the new knife?"

Definitely, it should be at least 1 carat(maybe 2). She'll love it .;)

Rich
 
Rich S said:
Nevada wrote: "Should I look at buying her a diamond stone to go with the new knife?"

Definitely, it should be at least 1 carat(maybe 2). She'll love it .;)

Rich
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Ha ha ha I’ll work on that next birthday. Think I’m getting a dozier black widow semi skinner. I know I can get quality for less money but I kinda wanted to get stupid with this gift.
 
Nevada said:
Wow cool thanks guys. I’ve got a lot to look at. I want to go with a fancier steel out of curiosity. She has a nice long three sided whetstone and used to work in a butcher shop so she can sharpen a knife. Should I look at buying her a diamond stone to go with the new knife? Not trying to change the topic but I’m well aware it will probably be a bear to sharpen. I’m after the edge retention/ toughness capabilities.
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For D2 you do not need a diamond stone. The only time I recommend diamonds are for steels with 4% or more vanadium carbides (S30V, S90V, etc.). D2 is not among them. The blade's final hardness does not dictate the stone type needed. For example ZDP189 can be run very very hard and is still readily sharpened on silicon carbide.

Diamonds on non-vanadium rich steels can be very aggressive and in lower alloy steels they can actually produce a worse edge than standard ceramics like silicon carbide or aluminum oxide. I'm guessing the "three sided" stone is probably something like Smith's Tri-hone and likely already has a couple ceramics and an Arkansas stone. Had to say what the condition of them is but I would let her start there and see if she can get the edge she wants off of what she has.

If not, come back to the forum and go to the Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment sub-forum and ask for opinions.

A Norton JB8 should be pretty good for that steel and maybe an India Fine but others will have more experienced inputs on it.
 
Eli Chaps said:
Diamonds on non-vanadium rich steels can be very aggressive and in lower alloy steels they can actually produce a worse edge than standard ceramics like silicon carbide or aluminum oxide.
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That's indeed what i've stated at using DMT diamond plates (in a progression from Coarse to E-E Fine) on carbon and low alloy tool steels. I went back to ceramic stones for those steels until i read this:https://scienceofsharp.com/2015/03/01/the-diamond-plate-progression/.

I extract these two quotes from this article:

"Comparing side view images, all at 5000x magnification, shows that the roughness of the bevel actually increases with grit, rather than decreases as was observed with the Shapton water stones. The scratches are wider and shallower on the lowest grit hones, becoming progressively deeper with increasing grit."

"In order to form a scratch, sufficient pressure must be exerted by the particle (or a corner of the particle) to exceed the yield-strength of the material. Since pressure is inversely proportional to contact area, a larger smoother particle will require a greater force to scratch than a smaller or more irregular particle. The observed scratch profiles indicate that the Coarse(325) and Fine(600) diamonds are too large (and smooth) to individually penetrate the steel (at the force applied), instead only the asperities on the surfaces of the diamonds abrade the bevel. This is not a burnishing effect; metal is being removed in these examples. The Extra Fine(1200) and Extra Extra Fine(8000) diamonds are small enough or sharp enough to penetrate and form discrete scratches. The smaller surface area of those contact points results in a higher pressure (force/area) and therefore greater penetration and deeper scratches."

I've tried the combination of DMT Coarse and Belgian Blue stone with surprisingly quick and good results on 1095, O1 and 3V. That's why i advised the use of the Coarse DMT, not the use of the full range of DMT plates.

Dan.
 
neat Thanks guys. I like the article on using a Coarse diamond stone. I know a butcher who uses victorinox knives and won’t use diamond - says it eats them up. I know a skinner who uses (green river knives?) and runs them through a quick sharp and licks them on a diamond steel about every 5 minutes. They both are very good at what they do.
I’ll check out the maintenance forum. If anyone has more advice for a good system specific to d2 steel, I’m all ears.
 
RobbieB said:
At the request of @Lady1911, here's a comparison of some EDC-size models with blade lengths ranging from 2.5 to 3.5 inches. These are aligned at the plunge line so you can see differences in blade length as well as handle length.
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Some Fiddleback Forge knives to consider thanks to @RobbieB. I can also recommend the GEC line of fixed blades, if looking for a 1095 specific knife. I have an H73116 and an H60 (I believe), and they are both fantastic edc knives. Although, I find the factory sheaths to be less than great.
 
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