I know!!! I just been using the KME stones and with the system I'm wicked happy with them. But I know there's alot of stones out there!
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Fixed blade sharpening advice
- Thread starter Jejerusik
- Start date
I know. I have a Mora that cost me 8 bucks. I'm going to pratice with that knife.
Wicked awesome thank you!!!!
scdub
Basic Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2004
- Messages
- 2,967
Learn it!
It’s not much harder to master than a controlled angle system, but once you’re over the hump, everything is easy to sharpen.
If you really like knives, you will love the ability to freehand.
Suggestions:
1) Start with a very thin, inexpensive knife (utility razor, paring knife, etc) and begin by intentionally dulling it with a couple of light passes on your stone (edge first - like you’ve trying to cut the stone in half).
2) Find the reflection of the dull edge you just created. It should be very thin if you only used light pressure to dull the edge.
3) Grind using a back/forth scrubbing motion and keep a slightly lower angle than you think you need.
4) Check the reflection again after every few passes - you should see it get smaller then disappear - now you have an apex, and in a thin blade it’s probably already sharp.
This is just a starting point but (imho) the final results are well worth the time you spend learning.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,432
Even a sharp 'convex edge' should actually be more V-shaped at the apex to actually be as narrow (in apex width) and as sharp as possible. Convexing has some advantages in the steel behind the apex, such as reducing drag or binding in cutting thick & tough material with thicker blades. But the edge itself will always be sharper if it remains as nearly V-shaped as it can be. Done as such, it reduces or eliminates the rounding at the apex that'll happen if one deliberately tries to 'convex the edge'. I tend to believe that concept, as it's worded, is a misleading one, creating an assumption the convex must go all the way to the apex (which dramatically widens the edge angle, rounds off the apex and effectively dulls it).
So, for actual sharpening, you'd do better to treat it like any knife with a standard V-edge and maintain it as such. With practice over time, you can then modify your sharpening habits to blend a convex into the bevel shoulders behind the edge, after sharpening it to a crisp v-shaped apex in the conventional manner. The key is to work the convex behind the edge at a held angle that's lower than the actual edge angle, so you're NOT altering the crisp V-edged apex in the process.
Edited to add:
Looking at images of the Reiff F6 knives online, the edge grind looks about as conventional as with most V-edged knives. Whatever subtle convex is there is likely the result of edge grinding/finishing on a belt grinder with just enough slack to keep it slightly convex behind the apex (and/or at the shoulders of the bevels) and barely short of truly flat bevels. That would be the same way many so-called 'V-edged' grinds are made on factory knives, the vast majority of which would also have some very subtle convex in the bevels. The point here being, there's likely not enough convex to be concerned about for the sake of maintenance sharpening.
So, for actual sharpening, you'd do better to treat it like any knife with a standard V-edge and maintain it as such. With practice over time, you can then modify your sharpening habits to blend a convex into the bevel shoulders behind the edge, after sharpening it to a crisp v-shaped apex in the conventional manner. The key is to work the convex behind the edge at a held angle that's lower than the actual edge angle, so you're NOT altering the crisp V-edged apex in the process.
Edited to add:
Looking at images of the Reiff F6 knives online, the edge grind looks about as conventional as with most V-edged knives. Whatever subtle convex is there is likely the result of edge grinding/finishing on a belt grinder with just enough slack to keep it slightly convex behind the apex (and/or at the shoulders of the bevels) and barely short of truly flat bevels. That would be the same way many so-called 'V-edged' grinds are made on factory knives, the vast majority of which would also have some very subtle convex in the bevels. The point here being, there's likely not enough convex to be concerned about for the sake of maintenance sharpening.
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If you do decide to keep it convex, strop it often, if done regularly you won’t have to ‘sharpen’ it often at all. Most of my edges are V bevels but I have a few convex edges. My F1 is convex grind, and I have 3 scandi-vex knives. I actually enjoy keeping them that way, as mostly I do V bevels. The key for me is to not let them get too dull and strop often. If a strop won’t get you back to shaving sharp on the convex edges there are various ways, I use various grits of wet/dry sandpaper over a fairly hard backing with a little give to it.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2021
- Messages
- 225
Agreed on wanting consistency and precision. I'm sure it could be accomplished with a convex edge with the properly designed gauges to confirm, but yeah most people aren't going to take it that far.
Sorry to anyone that has replied recently I usually get a notification, I have had nothing. So im sorry to not reply to people! Thank you everyone for the advice! I did go to a v grind and I am finding not really a difference in performance. But I am finding it seems to stay sharper longer and even when I strop it seems to come back easier.