Fixed blades in stainless

AEN-L is 40ft-lbs, 8670 is 50ft-lbs.

I’d call that a SIGNIFICANT difference, (like about 20%).

(Not that there’s anything wrong with stainless…)
Yes, but... those steels require maintenance. Humidity will make it dull, not just rusty. Stainless will not be affected with it. Better to always have a handy cutter than to always think of maintenance. And those figures are over the top so irrelevant.
 
Yes, but... those steels require maintenance. Humidity will make it dull, not just rusty. Stainless will not be affected with it. Better to always have a handy cutter than to always think of maintenance. And those figures are over the top so irrelevant.
I stand corrected.
 
AEN-L is 40ft-lbs, 8670 is 50ft-lbs.

I’d call that a SIGNIFICANT difference, (like about 20%).

(Not that there’s anything wrong with stainless…)

I believe Larrin Larrin has explained that it is a logarithmic scale where the higher you go the smaller the actual gap in toughness really is, so that 20 ft lb and 25 ft lbs is a bigger margin than 25 ft lbs and 30 ft lbs.
 
So my question is why aren't more outdoor use fixed blades offered in stainless?

There are lots, actually, as mentioned above, my favorites are AEB-L and NitroV.

Now toughness is not everything. If that's all that would be needed, everybody would use 8670 or S7 (which I like).

There is hardness, ease of sharpening, edge retention, etc. For example, I have a "Spicy White" blade that can be made harder than almost any other steel.

There are also "in between" steels, enough chrome to be almost maintenance free, and good toughness/edge retention balance, like Cruwear and 3V. These are kind of the "Goldilocks" of fixed blade steels, at least in my collection :)
 
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I believe Larrin Larrin has explained that it is a logarithmic scale where the higher you go the smaller the actual gap in toughness really is, so that 20 ft lb and 25 ft lbs is a bigger margin than 25 ft lbs and 30 ft lbs.
I recall that now - so not a 20% difference but still significant.

I recon if AEB-L was inexpensive and easy to work it would be used for everything. Still plan to get one of your machetes in it some day…
 
AEN-L is 40ft-lbs, 8670 is 50ft-lbs.

I’d call that a SIGNIFICANT difference, (like about 20%).

(Not that there’s anything wrong with stainless…)
So you'd agree that 14C28N is far superior than 1095? It's 300% stronger. It is roughly 30% better at cutting. It's nearly rust proof.

So, when looking at two identical knives, like the Garberg that comes in 14C28N and 1095, the stainless version is a no brainer, correct? AND it's less expensive.
 
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That is the religious part. Old beliefs based on 440C long time ago and sticked. Axes are low carbon for manufacturability. It would be wise to get them in S series but it costs more and no one cares. Stainless is harder to mold. But for custom makers there is no reason not to use SS.
That is a valid question about why no one does. I mean, people make tools out of abnormal/suboptimal materials for specific reasons all the time (like titanium EOD knives, objectively worse than steel as cutters, but the non-magnetic property is worth the tradeoff for that specific job), but I don't think I've ever seen a stainless axe, and now that I think about it, that is a little curious. I mean... I'd have thought somebody somewhere would have tried it.
 
That is a valid question about why no one does. I mean, people make tools out of abnormal/suboptimal materials for specific reasons all the time (like titanium EOD knives, objectively worse than steel as cutters, but the non-magnetic property is worth the tradeoff for that specific job), but I don't think I've ever seen a stainless axe, and now that I think about it, that is a little curious. I mean... I'd have thought somebody somewhere would have tried it.
Here's one:
 
Here's one:

Tempting until the Q&A. Here's the reply asking where made and what kind of steel:

"Unfortunately after attempting to contact our vendor regarding this issue, we were unable to receive the information needed to answer this question. The item is imported from Switzerland but they are not sure where the steel is made or if it is stainless steel. The item is a very hard, quality steel."
 
So you'd agree that 14C28N is far superior than 1095? It's 300% stronger. It is roughly 30% better at cutting. It's nearly rust proof.

So, when looking at two identical knives, like the Garberg that comes in 14C28N and 1095, the stainless version is a no brainer, correct? AND it's less expensive.
Yeah - assuming the charts are correct I think that’s right. (I don’t have personal experience with 14C28N).

Again I think there are some amazing stainless steels out there, I just tend to go with the high strength carbon steels like 5160 and S7 for outdoor blades because the price to performance ratio usually beats out stainless steels - for me.
 
In use so far I have not detected any noticeable difference between AEB-L heat treated by Jarod Todd or 8670 heat treated by Andy Pomorski. I would make a 16" blade 1-2" tall convex ground to an acute taper and .020" behind the edge and expect it to do most wood work. Super hard use and another .005" of metal behind the edge would make me feel perfectly confident to do all but deliberately try and destroy it, though it won't slice limbs off trees the way I like any more at that point. I like mine down to .016" or so.
 
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