Fixed Buck Age? Model?

Well, I guess somebody broke it and cobbled it back together?

I don't know, but I do know that don't look right and don't sound good.

Thanks, though......this knife has been an interesting story.
 
Well, someone tried to fix it after giving it a big hit . That looks brased with a brass rod not Tigg welded for stainless as it should have been . It may hold up for skinning but I wouldn't press it with heavy cutting . If you know a Very Experienced welder who has experience welding stainless, while you have it apart I'd take it to him and let him correct the tang to make it stronger with more integrity . Then should you want to use this knife it would be more sound . "Do not plan on malleting it thru something". This will forever be a light to medium duty knife . Did someone give you any history on this knife before you bought it ? Just hoping you knew its history . What handle material were you planning on putting back on it ? Thanks, DM
 
David Martin said:
Well, someone tried to fix it after giving it a big hit . That looks brased with a brass rod not Tigg welded for stainless as it should have been . It may hold up for skinning but I wouldn't press it with heavy cutting . If you know a Very Experienced welder who has experience welding stainless, while you have it apart I'd take it to him and let him correct the tang to make it stronger with more integrity . Then should you want to use this knife it would be more sound . "Do not plan on malleting it thru something". This will forever be a light to medium duty knife . Did someone give you any history on this knife before you bought it ? Just hoping you knew its history . What handle material were you planning on putting back on it ? Thanks, DM
Click to expand...

FYI

If you try to weld on that knife it will destroy the blade temper forever.
jb4570
 
JB, Thats not true as I've had some of mine welded in that area and was standing close by and just cooled it quickly with water and its fine . I've been using them for years and still using it today . DM
 
David Martin said:
JB, Thats not true as I've had some of mine welded in that area and was standing close by and just cooled it quickly with water and its fine . I've been using them for years and still using it today . DM
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DM,

You are a very experienced at working on knives and tempered steel. You instructed this guy to just find a guy who knows how to weld on stainless steel. The average welder who can do stainless could give a crap about the temper on a blade, it's not his line of work.

I think he should send it to you and you can fix it without harm to the blade temper:thumbup:
jb4570
 
I'd label it a wall-hanger. Buck makes full tang knives for a reason. You never know when you might need full strength out of a knife.

Sounds like Argon likes to play with cleaning up knives, so he can make it a "practice knife."

Might be a lot of fun.

:)
 
JB, I emphasize a Very Experienced welder not just any ole welder but an experienced welder on stainless steel . 2) I said a Tigg welder is what it takes, note, I said I was standing by, not doing the welding . I have cracker box experience not that type . I'm fortunate to live in a mining district and specialized businesses support mining activity . Hence, this specialize welding is available here . DM
 
David Martin said:
JB, I emphasize a Very Experienced welder not just any ole welder but an experienced welder on stainless steel . DM
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As I stated a very experienced welder is not a knife repair expert and certainly not a knife blade temper expert. That is the only point I was trying to make for you.

If this knife was to be repaired in any way at the tang it should only be attempted by a knife repair expert, who would most likely say put it in the trash as they would not want to be liable for it's eminent failure at the weld. When a tool is found to be badly damaged it should be replaced not glued together with additional steel. But, to each his own, as they say "one man's treasure is another man's trash".
jb4570
 
I was just thinkin'........it's kinda good that we inspired Argon to take the damned thing apart.

At least now he knows the truth about his knife and won't find out by having it break in his hands.

:thumbup:
 
BG42EDGE said:
I was just thinkin'........it's kinda good that we inspired Argon to take the damned thing apart.

At least now he knows the truth about his knife and won't find out by having it break in his hands.

:thumbup:
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+1

BG, now I keep looking at all of the fixed blade knives i have bought second hand......could they also be broken:eek:
jb4570
 
Well, JB.........that pommel pin showing in the first picture from Argon was a definite tip-off.

When amateurs work on knives they often leave clues that they've been at their dirty work.

:D
 
I'm pretty comfortable with my welding ability & will get to put them to the test with this guy as I was able to snap the tang in two at the braze with very little effort. Kinda scarey.

I was originally planning on keeping the stock handle, but I think those plans have changed after finding this little "repair."
 
Just put the bits and pieces in a bag and send them to Joe and tell him you want it fixed under warranty.

He will be so thrilled. He lives for this kind of thing.

(Joe, you can thank me later.)

:D
 
From the first pictures I noticed the pommel rivet issue and the fact that the spacers were all bone hard fiber except the last one in the guard. I've seen some of the older ones break inside the handle but it has always amazed me that this can happen without damage to the phenolic handle. Its like the tang just broke on its own. :confused:
I have had success welding them in the past. As long as the heat does not creep up to the edge your ok. It has a long way to creep to do any harm though. IMHO, by the time it goes through the tang, and an inch or so of metal where the blade is stamped, its cool enough not to be an issue.
We used to do a tang anneal operation on the 184 Buckmaster in which we used induction heating to get that tang glowing. They were in there for about 30 seconds if I remember right. There were specs on the rockwell and it had to be checked in a few places from the threads heading to the stamp area. By the time you got to the end of the stamp (the beginning of the edge) the blade rockwell was not even effected and these were left to cool at room temp.

I'm not sure about that 119 being a warranty issue and to be honest, unless it was hugely sentimental, we would not attempt a repair on one in that condition. It is not an easy/quick fix by any means and very likely that the end result would not be up to snuff anyways.
 
Joe Houser said:
I have had success welding them in the past. As long as the heat does not creep up to the edge your ok. It has a long way to creep to do any harm though. IMHO, by the time it goes through the tang, and an inch or so of metal where the blade is stamped, its cool enough not to be an issue.
Click to expand...

There are also manufacturers that make "heat sink" putty/clay/paste that will not allow any heat to transfer to the other side of the material being welded. It works slick!!! DAM-IT!! is one of such clays I believe. (IF blade temper was even a concern or an issue)

Note: Your mileage may vary. No warranty expressed or implied.Your results may vary. :D
 
Before we work ourselves into a frenzy of welding euphoria......let's focus our wishful memories on how Joe actually wound up his statement, shall we?

He said Buck wouldn't want to fix it because, and I quote, "It is not an easy/quick fix by any means and very likely that the end result would not be up to snuff anyways."

If Buck wouldn't do it, do we want to suggest the job is right for some blundering wanna-be backyard blacksmith?

Get a grip, you guys. Are you trying to encourage more cobbled-together Frankenstein knives turning up out there for us to buy unawares?

XXX
 
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