Flame Anodize 781 Anthem

[Honed_Edge]

I have a 781 that's getting some wear marks and thin spots in the original bronze coloring. I have flame anodized a 21, a sage 2 and lots of clips. It is easy if you prepare, take your time going slow and checking progress.

All those attempts started with basic titanium without any prior anodizing. I have never stripped the anodizing before. One day I'll likely have to, but so far nothings been redone.

I'm leery to etch away the worn finish on the Anthem. Many tolerances like where the axis bar slides, the area the bearings touch and the part that the blade hits locking up really can't lose any material. There is zero room for dimensional change. I also like the already smooth and shiny surface finish. The pattern on the handle makes working the surface maddening.

Bronze is the bottom end of the temp range. Purple/Blue should be achievable past that. Can I just keep going over what color is already there? I did some clips bronze, used them some before cleaning and heating again to get to blue. That worked fine. Isn't the anthem in that "bronze clip" state and shouldn't I be able to get it to the "blue clip" state by just heating?

The short questions is... I'm to lazy and nervous to remove the factory anodizing. Can I just torch over what's there to get it blueish and purplish in certain areas?

I tried Googling but had no luck. Thanks for any help guys.

 

[Honed_Edge]

I may try this when I get some free time. Pics will be posted as long as it's not too embarrassing.

 

[tiguy7]

View attachment 1488342 The lock bar has a staked nut at one end and a loose nut at the other. You need 2 TORX sockets to get the thing apart. You also need to remove material from the tips of the sockets to gain access to the nuts. Be careful with the heat as the bearing cages are plastic.

 

[Kmikaz3]

You need 2 TORX sockets to get the thing apart

2 torxs isn’t required to remove the lockbar as it has 2 flats that sits inside the groove to prevent it from spinning. All you’ll need, is one E6 modified female torx and unscrew the one on the pocket clip side. Also, when you reinstall your lockbar, you’ll notice, it will just go in on one side only and will not get in the other way.

Be careful with the heat as the bearing cages are plastic

Personally, i tossed away those cheap bearings and swapped with a more durable PB washers.

 

[tiguy7]

You might have a newer model, my lock bar spins freely.

 

[Honed_Edge]

Taking it apart is no problem, did that when I got it. Why would I be careful heating bearings with plastic cages? Everything will be out and only the Ti handle/frame will ever see heat. I wanted to know if I was good to just torch it as is once disassembled and cleaned. I like the surface texture, it's just the color I want to change. It would be nice to keep some bronze and add some blue and purple. Thanks for the suggestions, but it looks like I'm still going to have to do this. I'm shooting for next weekend.

I know you can electrically anodize but that gives uniform colors or smooth gradients. I like the more hectic all over the place patterns from heating. I feel the ridge tips and edges will take on unique and amazing patterns. The handle shape is perfect for what I want. (I think) Dipping in an acid immediately after heating gives that effect to the extreme. Decisions decisions...

 

[Kmikaz3]

Are you keeping the stock pocket clip or changed it for the MXG deep carry?. I asked because you could try heat ano on the bronzed clip and see the result. If it pleases you great, if not, you know what to do next and strip the ano altogether on the scale and/or toss the failed ano clip aside.

 

[tiguy7]

View attachment 1489640

Taking it apart is no problem, did that when I got it. Why would I be careful heating bearings with plastic cages? Everything will be out and only the Ti handle/frame will ever see heat. I wanted to know if I was good to just torch it as is once disassembled and cleaned. I like the surface texture, it's just the color I want to change. It would be nice to keep some bronze and add some blue and purple. Thanks for the suggestions, but it looks like I'm still going to have to do this. I'm shooting for next weekend.

I know you can electrically anodize but that gives uniform colors or smooth gradients. I like the more hectic all over the place patterns from heating. I feel the ridge tips and edges will take on unique and amazing patterns. The handle shape is perfect for what I want. (I think) Dipping in an acid immediately after heating gives that effect to the extreme. Decisions decisions...

I don't where I got the idea that you would try to heat color an assembled knife. The anodize is easy to strip with MultiEtch which is safer than HydroFluoric Acid (etches glass).View attachment 1489639

 

[Honed_Edge]

My family owns some rentals and we had a water heater split and start spewing. The expansion tank had filled with water and wasn't doing it's job anymore. Anyways, after I got cleaned up I decided to see where this long delayed project is heading. I didn't have time to do it all and do it right. So, I settled with the clip for now.

Completely degreased it and hit with a torch for about 30 seconds. I wanted a little more bronze near the screw holes, but I'll take this any day over the factory color. Pictures are taken outside on a cloudy day and taken from four angles to make up for the fact phones can't really do the colors justice.

Conclusion: Full flame anodize is coming when time permits. I will try very hard to keep some bronze when I do the handle. Enjoy for now!

Into the pocket to develop some wear. It's too perfect.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

You anodized it clear!