flared tube handle pins????

rustyrazor

rustyrazor

Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
1,774
hey Gents... i'm looking to start putting 1/4 inch tubing through my handles in place of pins or rivets on a few knives, then pressing them on either end to "flare" the tube, and mechanically hold the scales on... as i've seen on a few knives (such as the Busse "SAR5" and a few others) and i'm wondering if anyone has done this before and knows a few tips to save me some time and materials. My plan is to turn two pieces of stainless to a specific angle and use them in a 1 ton press on each side of the scale/tang sandwich, to evenly "squash" the brass tubing on either side of the scales, however i don't have any idea of what angle or flare to turn them to and was wondering if anyone else had any ideas.

Much appreciated

Royce
 
Here's a few tips...

Use thin wall seamless tube, finish the ends to 220 then scotchbrite them. Deburr then chamfer the tube lightly before flaring. I flare after my epoxy is cured.

I use an 82 degree (very common size) countersink bit and the dies from usaknifemaker to flare the tube in my half ton arbor press.

Make sure to switch sides and watch your progress closely, there is a bit of a trick to it. Practice on some scrap before you try a knife.


Here is a short video I made showing the tube flaring process.

[video=youtube_share;k048jII7h3U]http://youtu.be/k048jII7h3U[/video]
 
gimmejr said:
Why would you switch sides, wouldnt both sides be flared if you have the same dies on both sides?
Click to expand...

The press arm side being seems to flare more than the anvil side. This was mentioned when I bought the dies so I'm sure it is just how it works.

Like everything in knifemaking it is a lot more complicated than it seems! :D lol

You have to be careful not to press to hard, yesterday I ruined an expensive set of scales because I cracked them flaring the tube.

This rarely happens but sometimes you lose one, it never seems to happen when you think it will. The tube I was using was very thick but I have had great luck with it so far. The scales could have been flawed as well, I only seem to have it happen on this one kind.
 
How do you keep the epoxy out of the way when you flare the tubes after epoxying the handles? I've only tried a few handles like this (2 I think), and always just used the tubes without epoxy.
 
me2 said:
How do you keep the epoxy out of the way when you flare the tubes after epoxying the handles? I've only tried a few handles like this (2 I think), and always just used the tubes without epoxy.
Click to expand...

You just have to be careful during glue up, if any epoxy squeezes out into the countersunk recess you have to start over or do a quick clean up during glueing. I think flaring without epoxy like you do it would be great too, I just like the extra sealing power of the epoxy especially on knives that can rust. It is a small point though, flared handle tubes are a big plus however they are done.
 
Ive flared tubes horizontally on a large vice where its easier to see both sides at the same time and easier to make sure they are centered. Of course all I have at home is an arbor press so my technique will have to change.
 
im not trying to hyjack your thread but iv got a question iv been wondering about.
Has anyone tried using Roll Pins also called spring pins as handle tubes?
thanks guys
 
AntCaps said:
im not trying to hyjack your thread but iv got a question iv been wondering about.
Has anyone tried using Roll Pins also called spring pins as handle tubes?
thanks guys
Click to expand...

It works, but doesn't provide any clamping force to hold the scales onto the tang. It would be okay to use a roll pin for just the lanyard hole, as long as there are pins, bolts, or whatnot holding the scales on elsewhere.
 
someone suggested to me to use a couple cut off drywall screws in the press to flare the tubing. Just leave the bugle head part, in case the USA knife tube flaring dies are a little spendy for you.
 
Vulcanite said:
someone suggested to me to use a couple cut off drywall screws in the press to flare the tubing. Just leave the bugle head part, in case the USA knife tube flaring dies are a little spendy for you.
Click to expand...

I have also flared tube this way, with drywall screw heads and a vise. It is tougher to do and get right but can work.

I would use a bit of vaseline on the tube to help it move on the screw heads but I do not do that with the hardened usaknifemaker dies. I will say buying the dies was well worth it, messing up a handle due to a badly flared tube is no fun at all.
 
Daniel gave some great tips..Might I add that the length of the tube before flaring is very important..We also use Tracys dies..They work great.
 
Kentucky said:
Might I add that the length of the tube before flaring is very important...
Click to expand...

What length do you recommend? Flush with the overall thickness of the handle? A 1/16" over on each side, or what? I presume they need to be pretty well centered. I typically use 5/16" OD x 1/4" ID 303 SS tubing for thong tubes, in case that matters. I want to get into flaring them because it makes it less likely to abrade/cut the lanyard, and of course it adds strength to the scales.
 
james terrio said:
What length do you recommend? Flush with the overall thickness of the handle? A 1/16" over on each side, or what? I presume they need to be pretty well centered. I typically use 5/16" OD x 1/4" ID 303 SS tubing for thong tubes, in case that matters. I want to get into flaring them because it makes it less likely to abrade/cut the lanyard, and of course it adds strength to the scales.
Click to expand...

my thoughts exactly... that, and it's another mechanical fastener as opposed to straight tubing which isn't. I'm quite curious about this "how long should you leave the tubing" question myself, as well as the one known as "Tracy" and his Dies. who is this man of mystery, and does he sell these famous dies? it may save me a lot on my trial and error method of trying to file my own on the lathe (drill press).
 
Tracy Mickley is a respected maker who also operates a knifemaking supply shop. You can find the tube-flaring dies he sells here, along with hints on how to use them. Including:

USAknifemakersupply said:
The length of the tube matters. (no pun intended) Measure the material thickness and add 20% to get the size of the tube. For example if the handle material is .50" thick, add 20% to that to make the tube .60" thick. This should flare out to fill in the the countersink.
Click to expand...

I should have looked that up earlier :o
 
Old thread with new solution - I'm modifying a Topps California Cobra into a karambit (fit, weld & blend 1" ring onto the butt) that required removal of G10 scales factory-mounted with flared 1/8" brass tubing. I spent considerable time pondering the reattaching of the scales & wanted to retain as close to original configuration as possible. After reading these posts I decided to try something extremely cheap/simple. I carefully trimmed the brass tubes to be dead-nuts flush to both outsides of the scales, nothing protruding. Then I positioned a steel BB in the "cup" provided at each of the tube ends, using tape to hold them in place. Centering the assembly in my bench vice I then firmly squeezed the BBs. Luck is on my side as the .177" BB diameter was precisely the right size & angle to flare the 1/8" brass tubing snugly into the scale holes. It looked clean & factory fresh. I then (unfortunately) spotted a flaking area in the recently Cerakote flesh-toned finish & had to remove the scales for a warrantied re-coat. During the removal process I was able to determine how strong & durable my retrofit had been. I couldn't have been more pleasantly surprised. It has proven to be a remarkably effective flaring method & the tools are almost free.
 
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