Flared tube rivets best method?

Drill bits are generally 118 or 135 degrees.

Countersinks are 82 or 90 degrees. 82 degrees to match flat head cap screws and 90 degrees because hole chamfers are generally called out to be 45 degrees.

Yet again displaying my ignorance
 
This is what I plan to finish this days.Two connecting rods and little work on lathe , yellow is small axial needle bearing.Left side will be fixed ,on right side large screw ................It should work ............... I think :)

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Well , almost done .No need for bearing on right side , will not spin when pressing with bolt .I change little design .Now I need to HT and to polish both cone and to make knife to try this new toy .What kind of tube you use for this purpose ?
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I didn't even bother heat treating mine, just polished smooth. I use seamless copper or brass tubing with .030" thick wall.
 
The problem that I have with Busse style rivets is the same that I have with pretty much any fastener where you aren't going to grind the top to shape and smooth. You end up with big gaping holes in your handle and sometimes, like with "chain bolts" sharp edges. Not exactly palm friendly unless you are wearing your "combat gloves." :p
 
If you break the edges of the tube before flaring that can be mitigated but I'm not crazy about having them down the entire handle.

Case prep deburring tool works well.
 
It works ! I added a reinforcing rod between Rods because they flex little .I have paper under big opening of rods and they flex there ... I need yet to mount some steel rod to hold in place /to not turn / when I tighten.........Bad pictures but it come very good for first one flared :) I try copper and stainless tube ..........
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I use a vice with two flat head screws in each end of the tubes and a small dab of oil to prevent splitting the tubes. After that I finish them off with an anvil and punch both turned to match the 82 degree countersink I use. A place I used to work at had a small hydraulic press that with some dies would be perfect for setting the flares. I think it was an Enerpac brand. A larger size arbor press could do it too with the proper dies.
How do you modify the screws to press and flare the tubing? Are you using the side of the screw with the threads on it or the screw head side? Thanks
 
82 degrees is most common for wood screws. 100 degrees is what many aerospace fasteners use for better hold with thinner metals for structural fasteners. Wood screws are different than machine screws, usually 82 then machine screws can be from 90-110 degrees.
 
You guys sure overthink things. I just use a punch to flare them.

I guess if I did a lot of flared rivets, I might make something to make the job quicker.
 
82 degrees is most common for wood screws. 100 degrees is what many aerospace fasteners use for better hold with thinner metals for structural fasteners. Wood screws are different than machine screws, usually 82 then machine screws can be from 90-110 degrees.
not to be a bad guy here but i always was told it is 60 degree for wood screws, 90 for metric machine screws, 82 for SAE (US) machine screws,
then the100 followed by the 110/120 for aircraft screws/rivets (thinner materials)
i very recently bought all 3 angles 60/82/90 to properly countersink some screws i was told were (American made) and they were 90 degree not 82
so i guess you are best off having them all..
as far as the tool goes why not make a (Special pair of pliers) with screw heads tack welded in place?? something like (Vise Grip) that way you do both sides at once..
or you could use a "C clamp" and attach the flare tips to that .. remove the swivel part drill for the flare tool secure with a set screw..
not quite "Rocket science"... some guys years ago used a couple of drywall screws heads ,put in the ends of the tube and squeezed with a vise..
 
You guys sure overthink things. I just use a punch to flare them.

I guess if I did a lot of flared rivets, I might make something to make the job quicker.
Do you have any pics of what yours look like? Do you just hammer the punch one side at a time? Are you using a countersink hole?
 
I just use a tapered punch-one side at a time, on a flat anvil.
 
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