Flared tubing for handles?

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VaughnT

Joined
Feb 7, 2010
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I've seen several knives that use flared tubing to hold the slabs on the tang. I like the idea and wouldn't mind using it on a knife I'm working on, but how do you do it?

What wall thickness do you need to use? What apparatus does the flaring? What's the procedure? Pitfalls?
 
They make special flaring tools, bu you can just use a sharply tapered punch. Almost any tubing works. Seamless has less chance of splitting.
 
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Question... are makers flaring the tubing or just countersinking the end of the tubing?????? seems as if you flare it that it would split the handle material. Thanks in advance for your input.
 
I flare mine. I wouldn't use this for bone, stag, or wood handles. G10 and Micarta can take it, though :D

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I countersink the handle material and flare the tube into the space. I use wood for all the knives I've made so far and have yet to split one using this method. I tried on the first one, flaring in the vice. I split the brass tubing, but the wood held firm. Micarta or G10 should be all but impossible to split. I flare mine with some screw heads with the shanks cut off. The 45* angle counter sink bit matches the angle on the bottom of the heads. I've only done 2 knives this way, but the wood was fine after both. It may split with time, but no signs so far. If you can do a search, I learned from a tutorial Flatgrinder posted a year or 2 ago.
 
defaultuser said:
I flare mine. I wouldn't use this for bone, stag, or wood handles. G10 and Micarta can take it, though :D

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Click to expand...


Thanks for the pic. I have new inspiration for some old forged bolster chef's knives I was asked to repair. I hate those bolsters. Now they're coming off.
 
I've never done this myself but have read about the following way:

have the handle material countersunk
insert the tubes
cut the heads of two large screws and insert those in the tubes
Put it all in a vice and tighten
The screw heads should flare the metal tube
 
Using a vise removes most of the control you need for flaring tubing. Just use a small hammer and tapered punch. Flare one side of the inserted tube, turn it over, adjust the length if necessary, and flare the other side.
 
Hmmmm..... Got me thinking.

The ball-bearing idea is very intriguing and I'll have to do some experiments. I don't think I have the equipment to turn a set of dies, thought that would be ideal.

I'm definitely going to have to practice as I really like the look and practicality. If I don't have to stock corby bolts and thong tube and rivets and... Great!
 
Dies or a punch can be turned with an electric drill and a file.
 
It requires finesse.
You guys seem to use hammers like you are forging all the time. The biggest hammer in my shop is an 8 oz. ball peen. I generally use a 2 ounce hammer.
 
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