Sale Terms:
1) Maglite 8xAA MT-G2 sold $75
This light was modded by kyfishguy. This is a 2D sized Maglite that has a MT-G2 emitter driven to 3.5amps with 8 AA batteries. There are 4 modes starting with low and this does not have mode memory. Includes 2 4xAA battery holders and I find the way that they will arrive (keeping current one towards head at the head, and current one towards the tail at the tail) work the best. When they have been reversed there appears to be a break/loss in contact somewhere. This is very bright for an AA powered light and who doesn't love a Maglite. I kept this one in my truck as an emergency light and recharged the batteries every month due to parasitic drain with Maglite having an electronic switch.
Speaking of which, I purchased this plain jane but will be including 8 Tenergy LSD (low self-discharge) AA batteries.
2) Liteflux LF3XT modded to Warm White XR-E Withdrawn
I picked this up on the exchange recently from Frank (flucero28) over on CandlePowerForums who swapped the emitter to a very nice warm white XR-E.
Includes a spare switch/tail assembly, spare pocket clip, spare o-rings, silicone lubricant, instructions (programming guide) and box. Runs off of both a primary CR123a and a RCR123 (it is currently configured for CR123 primaries).
3) Olight S1 Baton [Sold to dawgfan] $40
Like new condition. This is the version that still retains mode memory with moonlight/high mode for those that did not like the revised version that Olight released.
Includes 2 o-rings, lanyard with needle thread, 1 x 16340 Efest IMR battery (can also use 1 x CR123a primary), box and instructions of course. Night vision low, impressive high, a great little EDC all around!
4) Surefire Titan-A AAA Keychain Light [Sold] $40 first class shipping $45
I purchased this after the issues were resolved with the initial release (all my batteries fit) and it rode my keychain everyday. Despite this, it hardly shows any wear, though there is some where on the lens. This is a very rugged keychain light that I prefer to the Olight i3s it replaced.
Includes: Split ring (attached), Surefire branded eneloop pro, and the packaging.
5) Surefire 6P (Oveready Fire Red) with Neutral White XM-L2 SOYCD P60 [Sold] $165
Picked this one up from Sean (ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond) a while back and has been a trusty EDC. Fire Red Oveready 6P Fire Red host bored for 18650, it does not look like these are available on the site anymore. Includes a P60 dropin that Sean put together. P60 is a XM-L2 T5-5C1 4000K Neutral LED with lucidrv programmable driver driven at 3.04A. I am including 3x NCR18650B 3400mAh battery with it.
This was a carried user, but not abused. I kept it in my rear pocket with my wallet. Doesn't show much wear, but I would rate it at about 90% to be on the safe side. Hate to part with this one as it is a favorite of mine. Runs off of 1x18650 (or other single lithium-ion battery). Do not use 2xCR123s or 2 lithium-ion batteries. Programming guide below is as follows (from http://drjones.nerdcamp.net/#lucid)
- US Shipping preferred, Worldwide shipping available at cost - PM to discuss
- Priority shipping unless otherwise noted
- Paypal Purchase of Goods Option (no gift payments please)
- Paypal payment must be received within 12hrs unless previously discussed
- I reserve the right to refuse sale at my discretion
- No trades at this time
1) Maglite 8xAA MT-G2 sold $75
This light was modded by kyfishguy. This is a 2D sized Maglite that has a MT-G2 emitter driven to 3.5amps with 8 AA batteries. There are 4 modes starting with low and this does not have mode memory. Includes 2 4xAA battery holders and I find the way that they will arrive (keeping current one towards head at the head, and current one towards the tail at the tail) work the best. When they have been reversed there appears to be a break/loss in contact somewhere. This is very bright for an AA powered light and who doesn't love a Maglite. I kept this one in my truck as an emergency light and recharged the batteries every month due to parasitic drain with Maglite having an electronic switch.
Speaking of which, I purchased this plain jane but will be including 8 Tenergy LSD (low self-discharge) AA batteries.
2) Liteflux LF3XT modded to Warm White XR-E Withdrawn
I picked this up on the exchange recently from Frank (flucero28) over on CandlePowerForums who swapped the emitter to a very nice warm white XR-E.
Includes a spare switch/tail assembly, spare pocket clip, spare o-rings, silicone lubricant, instructions (programming guide) and box. Runs off of both a primary CR123a and a RCR123 (it is currently configured for CR123 primaries).
3) Olight S1 Baton [Sold to dawgfan] $40
Like new condition. This is the version that still retains mode memory with moonlight/high mode for those that did not like the revised version that Olight released.
Includes 2 o-rings, lanyard with needle thread, 1 x 16340 Efest IMR battery (can also use 1 x CR123a primary), box and instructions of course. Night vision low, impressive high, a great little EDC all around!
4) Surefire Titan-A AAA Keychain Light [Sold] $40 first class shipping $45
I purchased this after the issues were resolved with the initial release (all my batteries fit) and it rode my keychain everyday. Despite this, it hardly shows any wear, though there is some where on the lens. This is a very rugged keychain light that I prefer to the Olight i3s it replaced.
Includes: Split ring (attached), Surefire branded eneloop pro, and the packaging.
5) Surefire 6P (Oveready Fire Red) with Neutral White XM-L2 SOYCD P60 [Sold] $165
Picked this one up from Sean (ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond) a while back and has been a trusty EDC. Fire Red Oveready 6P Fire Red host bored for 18650, it does not look like these are available on the site anymore. Includes a P60 dropin that Sean put together. P60 is a XM-L2 T5-5C1 4000K Neutral LED with lucidrv programmable driver driven at 3.04A. I am including 3x NCR18650B 3400mAh battery with it.
This was a carried user, but not abused. I kept it in my rear pocket with my wallet. Doesn't show much wear, but I would rate it at about 90% to be on the safe side. Hate to part with this one as it is a favorite of mine. Runs off of 1x18650 (or other single lithium-ion battery). Do not use 2xCR123s or 2 lithium-ion batteries. Programming guide below is as follows (from http://drjones.nerdcamp.net/#lucid)
This is the successor of lupodrv with a somewhat more intuitive programming UI; it also features two mode groups.
Note: Since 2015, lucidrv will be sent with off-time memory as default (actually lucidrv/FT).
Two mode groups: You can have two mode groups for different situations (e.g. one for indoors with moon and low modes, and one for outdoors with high/med). Each group is fully configurable with up to 7 modes and it's own memory type (see below).
Mode locking: Select any mode and use it for a second, then activate mode lock (see below). Then that mode is locked, it won't change to next mode any more (unless you unlock it again). Good for tactical or signaling purpose.
Programming: You can change any mode to a different brightness, strobe or beacon; you can change the number of modes (1-7) in each group, and you can change the memory type for each group (see below)(no-memory, classic memory, short-cycle memory).
Configuration menu (programming mode): Select a mode and use it for at least a second. That mode is then the selected mode for some of the actions below. Then enter programming mode by 8 rapid taps (half-presses; the light must be <0.2s on each time). You have to be quite fast, however it's no problem if you tap a few times more.
Shortly after those rapid taps a blinking signal will be shown. This serves two purposes: It indicates that the light is now in its configuration menu (programming mode) and awaits further input, and it also serves as battery level indicator: The number of blinks indicates battery voltage, about one blink for every 0.1V above 3.0V without load (~12 is full, ~4 is pretty empty). If you let them pass without tapping the button again, the config menu is exited without any change.
If you want to change the configuration, you need to 'input' more taps while the blinking signal is active, the number of taps specifies the action. Note that the timing is more relaxed in the config menu; you have to be swift and uninterrupted, but by far not as rapid as the 8 taps above. However you must hit the exact number of taps.
Once you entered the config menu (by 8 rapid taps) and see it's signal, tap the button a number of times to do the following:
PWM frequency is 18 kHz.
Note: The brightness ramp hast 16 steps, from #16(100%) downwards the output halves every 2 steps. The lowest modes however deviate from that due to limited PWM resolution, also the actual output on the lowest modes depends on hardware variations like 7135 internal capacitance and LED forward voltage.
The levels (in %) are: ~.2 .7 1 1.5 2 3 4 6 9 13 18 25 35 50 70 100
New features for lucidrv drivers sent since September 2013:
Disable programming (proglock): Solder a connection from the 4th star (the rightmost one on the images below) to the outer ring to disable programming (some conductive paint etc. might work, too). Mode locking and switching between mode groups (1 or 2 taps in the config menu) will still work, but all config options below that won't. Remove the solder bridge to enable configuration changes again.
Option: 5 taps for mode lock: You need to tell me if you want that option before I send the driver. A driver with that option will switch mode locking after 5 quick taps (like lupodrv) instead of one tap in config menu. The latter will then just be ignored and may be used to abort the config menu. This option might be useful for those who use mode locking often.
Note: Since 2015, lucidrv will be sent with off-time memory as default (actually lucidrv/FT).
Two mode groups: You can have two mode groups for different situations (e.g. one for indoors with moon and low modes, and one for outdoors with high/med). Each group is fully configurable with up to 7 modes and it's own memory type (see below).
Mode locking: Select any mode and use it for a second, then activate mode lock (see below). Then that mode is locked, it won't change to next mode any more (unless you unlock it again). Good for tactical or signaling purpose.
Programming: You can change any mode to a different brightness, strobe or beacon; you can change the number of modes (1-7) in each group, and you can change the memory type for each group (see below)(no-memory, classic memory, short-cycle memory).
Configuration menu (programming mode): Select a mode and use it for at least a second. That mode is then the selected mode for some of the actions below. Then enter programming mode by 8 rapid taps (half-presses; the light must be <0.2s on each time). You have to be quite fast, however it's no problem if you tap a few times more.
Shortly after those rapid taps a blinking signal will be shown. This serves two purposes: It indicates that the light is now in its configuration menu (programming mode) and awaits further input, and it also serves as battery level indicator: The number of blinks indicates battery voltage, about one blink for every 0.1V above 3.0V without load (~12 is full, ~4 is pretty empty). If you let them pass without tapping the button again, the config menu is exited without any change.
If you want to change the configuration, you need to 'input' more taps while the blinking signal is active, the number of taps specifies the action. Note that the timing is more relaxed in the config menu; you have to be swift and uninterrupted, but by far not as rapid as the 8 taps above. However you must hit the exact number of taps.
Once you entered the config menu (by 8 rapid taps) and see it's signal, tap the button a number of times to do the following:
- 1 tap: Mode lock; lock the selected mode (see above). If locked, unlock.
- 2 taps: Switch between the two groups (also lifts a mode lock).
- 3 taps: Set brightness. The light will ramp the brightness up and down twice in 16 visually linear steps (the output doubles/halves every 2 steps). Tap once when the desired brightness is reached to change the selected mode to this brightness (constant brightness).
- 4 taps: Change the selected mode to strobe.
- 5 taps: Change the selected mode to beacon (a blink every ~10s)
- 6 taps: Delete the selected mode.
- 7 taps: add a mode; the new mode is inserted at the position of the selected mode. Example: If you have 3 modes, L/M/H (with M selected), then add a mode, the result is L/M/M/H, i.e. the selected mode is doubled, and the first of them is selected. It can then be changed by entering the config menu again.
- 8 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to no-memory.
- 9 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to classic memory (cycle through all modes).
- 10 taps: Set the memory type for the active group to short-cycle memory (after memory kicked in, skip to first mode; see above).
PWM frequency is 18 kHz.
Note: The brightness ramp hast 16 steps, from #16(100%) downwards the output halves every 2 steps. The lowest modes however deviate from that due to limited PWM resolution, also the actual output on the lowest modes depends on hardware variations like 7135 internal capacitance and LED forward voltage.
The levels (in %) are: ~.2 .7 1 1.5 2 3 4 6 9 13 18 25 35 50 70 100
New features for lucidrv drivers sent since September 2013:
Disable programming (proglock): Solder a connection from the 4th star (the rightmost one on the images below) to the outer ring to disable programming (some conductive paint etc. might work, too). Mode locking and switching between mode groups (1 or 2 taps in the config menu) will still work, but all config options below that won't. Remove the solder bridge to enable configuration changes again.
Option: 5 taps for mode lock: You need to tell me if you want that option before I send the driver. A driver with that option will switch mode locking after 5 quick taps (like lupodrv) instead of one tap in config menu. The latter will then just be ignored and may be used to abort the config menu. This option might be useful for those who use mode locking often.
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