Flashlight question

LD20 from fenix

the tiablo ,,discontinued but you can find some really great deals on the light forums
 
fdd19, capitalization and punctuation will make your posts more readable.
Stream-of-consciousness blocks of text will often be ignored.
 
Nitecore D10 or EX10. $59 and LOTS of control flexibility. I like the new LED they're using more than the Cree, too. I've always been a diehard Surefire fan, but these things rock for most of my everyday use. :thumbup:
 
Outdoors Fanatic said:
I beg to differ. Fenix uses emitter lumens (theoretical lumens from the LED manufacturer), while SureFire rate its lights using Torch Lumens (lumens out-the-front, not at the emitter). Not only that, but SureFire is also known to underrate lumens. The SF E2DL was tested in an Integrating Sphere as delivering 170+ torch lumens, eventhough SF rates it as "only" a 120 lumens light.
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Actually, those times are long gone. Most of the new Fenix lights quote torch lumens (or at least within 10%), as tested by at least two integrating spheres, as well as a number of homemade lightboxes.

The Nitecore numbers for the EX10 and D10 are also way too low to be emitter lumens.

In the end, the amount of light you get is simple mathematics. If you deliver the same 800mA to a Q5 bin Cree LED, you're going to get the same average amount of output, regardless of whether the LED on a Fenix or a Surefire light. There is no magic that will make the Surefire brighter.
 
johnrosshayden said:
I am looking for a light $40-$60 bucks. I have a Surefire E2D and I like it but batteries go to fast and its one stage like 85 lumens. I am looking for an all around light for long time and also good throw when I need it. Basically a well balanced light?
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I personally like single cell lights - in particular single AA lights.

At one time not so long ago technology wasn't good enough and a single AA just could not deliver enough power for any truly bright lights.

Things have moved on with the current LED technology - with Cree, Rebels and Osram Golden Dragon Plus. A single AA light can now deliver about 120-130 lumens which is brighter than the now legendary and once regarded as riduculously bright SureFire 9P - that's the 3x Lithium CR123 xenon light.....

Anyway - there are two single AA lights I suggest looking at -

NiteCore D10 and Fenix L1D-Q5

D10sz.jpg


NiteCore D10 Comparison Review

Fenix L1D-CE Comparison Review
this is the plain CE (Cree Edition) but the functionality is the same as the Q5 version. The Q5 version was compared in the NiteCore D10 review.

I still like Fenix lights a lot - as the head from the L1D is the same as the L2D and even P2D - getting spare bodies for the L2D and P2D - gives one the ability to use the same head for a 2x AA and 1x CR123 configurations, respectively.

Hope this helps,

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For all the reasons above, I'd also go with the Fenix LD20. It's one of the newest out there and with the multi-mode you have throw or glow. Unless you use it a lot go with Energizer lithium. I doubt you'd be happy with lumens or runtime on a single AA battery. As noted previously, do the math, 1.5v vs 3v.
 
popcornpicker said:
For all the reasons above, I'd also go with the Fenix LD20. It's one of the newest out there and with the multi-mode you have throw or glow. Unless you use it a lot go with Energizer lithium. I doubt you'd be happy with lumens or runtime on a single AA battery. As noted previously, do the math, 1.5v vs 3v.
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I don't know about the Fenix lights, but the Nitecore D10 and EX10 both have the same output. The only difference is runtime. EX10 at max goes for about 100 minutes, while the D10 does about 50 on common AAs. At this point, the price of a common AA is about $.25 vs $1 for CR123s. Economically speaking, the D10 is a better choice. I find that the longer, slimmer body on the AA light is easier to hold on to, as well.
 
truthseeker said:
At this point, the price of a common AA is about $.25 vs $1 for CR123s. Economically speaking, the D10 is a better choice. I find that the longer, slimmer body on the AA light is easier to hold on to, as well.
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I like the idea of not being tied to CR123A. I use the L2D often but not for long so the AA last for months. MY only problem is a minor one: it's too slim for my hand, I actually prefer the greater circumference of a CR123A light.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I like the idea of not being tied to CR123A. I use the L2D often but not for long so the AA last for months. MY only problem is a minor one: it's too slim for my hand, I actually prefer the greater circumference of a CR123A light.
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This is a VERY good point - size and form-factor are important - all too often people pick lights just from the specs/numbers and wonder why they don't like the light that much, despite all the enthusiasm from other people.
Somtimes it's simply the light does not feel that good in the their hands - or just too awkward to carry around (that includes being too small).

I like single AA lights just because of the form-factor - the NiteCore D10 is very compact and its build quality is really good - it is shorter due to its use of a piston to activate the switch - but for my EDC out of the house pocket carry - simply because pocket space is at a premium - I carry a single AAA light - it's a compromise (for me) - but the size/form-factor wins out - I have often complained that a single AAA light can get "lost" in the pocket, so can be hard to locate in a hurry - I've kind of overcome that by attaching a short wrist loop/lanyard to the light so that I can "find" it more easily.

So the 1AA NiteCore D10 gets "relegated" to my at home pocket carry - where pocket space is not so critical. Having siad that I would find a 2x AA light too uncomfortable in my pocket even if I had plenty of space.

Most lights followed the philisophy of trying to make them as small and slim as possible for the batteries used, so the longer 2x AA light tend to be a bit slim in proportion, since I tend to use 2x AA only very occassionally, and mostly 1x AA lights - this is not a problem, as the proportions are better for 1x AA despite being the same slimness.

However Fenix have recently brought out the 2x AA Fenix TK20 which is quite a bit fatter/substantial and uses a much warmer tinted LED, can be considered.

Anyone using AA powered lights should really consider using rechargeable NiMH batteries - better yet the newer LSD (no, not the drug - but Low-Self Discharge) NiMH batteries - the most famous example is the eneloop - but most other brands are just about as good - eg: Kodak Pre-Charged, Duracell Pre-Charged and Ray-O-Vac Hybrid. They actually perform much better than alkalines - maintain brightness better, and run longer on high......
they are more economical in the long run and better for the environment....

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If you like Surefire lights, an L1 sounds like a good bet. Low setting for battery life, high when you need it, the UI is simplicity itself. I have an older one that was modded such that the low is lower (and battery life MUCH better) and high is higher than the current production. But that's a little pricey.

Most of the time I carry a Fenix L1T v2.0. It has a 'tactical' forward-clickey, with momentary activation. If you want to add the 'tactical' switch to a different Fenix light, you can buy a replacement switch or an entire replacement tailcap, from folks like Lighthound or the Fenix-Store.

The upside of lithium primaries is shelf life in the 10 year range. The downside is expense. (Even $1/per online adds up.) AA alkalines are dirt cheap, and rechargeables work out to even cheaper in the long run.
 
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UnknownVT said:
Anyone using AA powered lights should really consider using rechargeable NiMH batteries - better yet the newer LSD (no, not the drug - but Low-Self Discharge) NiMH batteries - the most famous example is the eneloop - but most other brands are just about as good - eg: Kodak Pre-Charged, Duracell Pre-Charged and Ray-O-Vac Hybrid. They actually perform much better than alkalines - maintain brightness better, and run longer on high......
they are more economical in the long run and better for the environment....

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Thanks for the information. I will look into these.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
fdd19, capitalization and punctuation will make your posts more readable.
Stream-of-consciousness blocks of text will often be ignored.
Click to expand...

Duely noted, sir! It's a bad habit brought on by excessive usage of AIM and text messaging. :-D
The Tiablo light I have linked up is still in stock and on sale, and is an excellent light!
 
Again another vote for Fenix,I have a L0d q4 on my keyring and a p1d in the car,both are good value for money.As above,I too suggest you use rechargable Ni-Mh batteries,you will save money.I tend not too use cr123 much as the newer led driven lights give you a lot of performance with AAA and AA batteries,these being cheaper and a lot more available.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I like the idea of not being tied to CR123A. I use the L2D often but not for long so the AA last for months. MY only problem is a minor one: it's too slim for my hand, I actually prefer the greater circumference of a CR123A light.
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I'm running inexpensive 123 rechargables in my Fenix P3D. I've been on the same set of 4 for more than six months now, using the light almost nightly, and the rechargeables are still going strong.

I also carry a pair of standard 123's as backup, but haven't had to use them yet!
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I will look into these.
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Rechargeable batteries.

The most common AA and AAA rechargeable batteries these days are NiMH - a lot of people just go for the highest capacity rating like 2500-2700mAh. However there is a big disadvantage to just doing that.

To pack that much capacity into the battery, plates/separators have to be thinner - therefore more fragile - and the higher capacity batteries are damaged more easily - due to handling, over heating or over charging. The Energizer 2500mAh NiMH for example, has a very bad rep over at CPF for not being able to retain charge - some losing charge as quickly as a few days. This is not supposed to be typical - but NiMH do have a relatively high self-discharge rate - most will lose almost all usable charge within about 2-3 months. Many people using NiMH in digicam often go back to the camera to find the NiMH batteries flat.

In November/2005 - a new type of NiMH rechargeable battery was introduced - LSD - Low Self-Discharge NiMH (Wikipedia link) - the eneloop - these have the advantage of retaining most of their charge for over a year. There are now many other brands of LSD. The eneloop is still the "best" by reputation and the benchmark - but the other brands are mostly just about as good and in real practical usage there is little, if any, noticable difference.

Other well known brands are - Kodak Pre-Charged, Duracell Pre-Charged, Ray-O-Vac Hybrid - the only one I heard poor reports of were the UltraLast Hybrio in the grey/red color scheme (please see - When is a Hybrio not a Hybrio?).

My take is - if there is no price difference then eneloops are absolutely the first choice - but if there is a price difference then the cheapest (without poor reports) will work just as well.......

for further info -

Low Self-Discharge NiMH (Wikipedia link)

Batteries with low self discharge "LSD"

Eneloop Self Discharge study

AA and AAA NiMH low self-discharge tests--Round 2

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get the LED head for your surefire. i think they're about $35 bucks at LA police gear and other places, and if you already like your surefire then you're still happy. it extends the battery life to 10-12 hrs and adds a few more lumnen.

Winston
 
Look up that price again it is $109. That was the whole point of this thread, I did not want to spend the same amount on the upgrade as I did on the original flashlight. I think it is a ripoff on Surefire part and probaly will not by from them again. I emailed them about this and they said research it and see if you can find the upgrade cheaper. Give me a break!!! I love that flashlight thats why it is a hard decision.
 
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