Flitz: Paste or Liquid

[Trout Hound]

I have a Case CV knife that has developed a spotty patina through use, and I want to start over and force a patina. Is it better to use paste or liquid Flitz for that?

Also, I know that Flitz has a protective element built in, which it seems to me might hinder forcing a patina. Will rubbing alcohol remove all the residue, or do I need something else?

Thanks!!!

 

[Trout Hound]

Sorry mods, I just realized I might have posted this in the wrong forum by accident. Thanks to whomever moved it.

 

[Jens Schuetz]

Only know paste. Works well.
After the paste there is some film on the metal. Didn't know it's protective (thanks) and always removed it with Alcohol to apply my own oil.
Alcohol should be sufficient but if you want to be super sure additional acetone will be even better. It's cheaply to be had at Home Despot.

 

[Bobby3326]

The liquid works great for removing surface rust and staining on my 1095 blades. It definitely works as protection from rust. Water beads right off after it's been applied, I left a machete out over night with light rain and wasn't a spec of rust on it.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I have a Case CV knife that has developed a spotty patina through use, and I want to start over and force a patina. Is it better to use paste or liquid Flitz for that?

Also, I know that Flitz has a protective element built in, which it seems to me might hinder forcing a patina. Will rubbing alcohol remove all the residue, or do I need something else?

Thanks!!!

Most/all of the 'protective element' in Flitz paste or similar products is just in the high polish it leaves by micro-fine abrasion. In other words, the high polish created by very fine abrasives removing metal will reduce the rough spots, pores and other nooks/crannies (microscopically speaking) in the surface of the metal, where dirt & moisture and other stuff can hide and create corrosion. This is also why it's a little harder (or it just takes longer) for 'patina' to form on the polished surface of the steel. There's really no 'residue' or coating (film) left by it on the metal.

Having said all that, the paste form delivers more bang for the buck, in terms of polishing, because it contains a higher concentration of the very fine abrasives (aluminum oxide in Flitz). Some liquid polishing products may contain waxes or other stuff designed to coat a surface, in addition to some abrasive content, but usually won't be quite as effective at actually polishing, as compared to the paste form.

To remove the existing patina, the paste should work faster. You could also use high-grit wet/dry sandpaper (1000+ grit), which would work faster than that, and it'll also leave the steel with a somewhat less polished finish, which will make it more receptive to a new patina.

Even a polished CV finish can take a patina; it can be more evenly done with a HOT mix of vinegar & water, for example, by dipping/immersing the blade in the hot mixture. I applied a patina to a few of my CV knives this way.


David

 

[Trout Hound]

Thanks David! How long would I need to immerse it? Is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water about right?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks David! How long would I need to immerse it? Is a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water about right?

That's what I've used for the mix. You can adjust it or tinker as you see fit. I just dipped mine in a coffee pot when using the vinegar/water mix to descale the coffee maker when it gets 'slow'. Sort of a fun & interesting way to make additional use of the mix after it cleans out the coffee maker. With mine, the liquid comes into the pot at about 170°F (checked with a cooking thermometer).

When I've immersed it, I've sometimes held the blade in the mix for 1-3 minutes at a time. You'll be able to watch the patina come into the steel (it bubbles and darkens before your eyes), so you can lift it out when it looks 'right' to you, and/or re-dip it a few times to really 'set' the patina. If left long enough, the blade will come out BLACK, and some of the really dark oxide will then come off the blade when cleaned up afterward. I scrub the blade with baking soda, which removes the lightly-bound black stuff, and then leaves a more even grey patina behind. Baking soda also helps neutralize the acetic acid (vinegar), so it stops any further oxidizing or corrosion when you're done. Rinsing the blade under running water is also a good idea afterwards.

See the pic below, of my Case 6375 CV stockman; that's what it looked like after giving it the treatment I described above (the 'shiny' edge is after stropping with compound, which removes the patina near the edge):


David

 

[powernoodle]

You may not care, which is fine :thumbup:, but Mother's Mag Wheel polish performs (for me) just like Flitz, and you get 70X as much of it for the same money. Get it at Wal-mart, Autozone, anywhere.