fluting question

on_the_edge

on_the_edge

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Jan 31, 2006
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Can someone please describe for me the process of fluting, say on the handle of a high-end dagger? How exactly is it done, and how is it done so perfectly when done by hand? What tools are used?

And because I generally have a limited imagination, any pics would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
 
First you need a fluting fixture. riverside machine has one as in uncle AL. You can make one very easy just need the indexing wheel. You use it to make marks evenly on both ends of the handle and then use string to touuch one mark on one end and then, the string is taped on one mark and spiraled to another mark on the other side of the handle. Will cause the spiral effect. Like 3 marks off center. Pull string tight and tape at other end, Then mark where the string is and continue until all around the handle. Almost have to see it done the first time. Hard to explain.
 
I've seen Dan do this and it's probably the fastest way to do it and have it look right. He makes it look easy though. Explaining it is hard to do.
 
I've never done the spiral fluting but have done the checkered fluting. I assume it must be similar. I start with a bedded handle on the blade with out the guard so you can line up the bottom and top of the blade with the bottom and top of the handle. Use a ruler and scribe a line top and bottom and then figure out the middle of the handle and scribe again if you want more flutes divide those sections again. Then do it in a cross section start from the middle scribe around the handle and cut that in half. What you end up with is a big grid on the handle. Now connect the line intersections at a 45 degree. I use the top side of a stack of post it notes for this. I've tried the bendable rulers but just doesn't work as well. Now take a very sharp knife edge needle file and start cutting those lines. Then go to a three corner needle file and then work your way up with bigger round files till you get the size flute your looking for. Do not go straight to the round file and try to follow the lines it won't end up even. It's not as hard as it looks, just take your time in the layout and follow the lines. I have a picture of a bowie with a checkered fluted handle with raised stainless pins on my website if your interested under the art knives section that took about a day to do the handle. My fingertips were numb for at least a week.

Mike Quesenberry
ABS Journeyman
www.quesenberryknives.com
 
What about the depth of the spirals, or even the checkering? Is that basically putting an eye on it or is there some way to ensure uniformity of breadth and depth? I can see that checkering might not be so difficult, but the spirals I would think would be a pain.
 
This is very hard to explain with out visual props.
There is a tool called an Indexer that, I think Al's (riverside Machine)sells.
It has 2 round disks on an all thread shaft, the disks are on either end.
they have holes around the outside about every 1/2" or so.
You put your wood on the all thread shaft with the disks on either end, you align the holes with each other.
You decide which end is going to be the start point, then go to the other end and count holes until you have the twist you want, You can put string in the holes to check it out.
Then mark the string with a marker or scribe and use a rat tail file on the marks to the depth you want.
(Dan uses scotch tape instead of string and it works just as good.
 
on_the_edge said:
What about the depth of the spirals, or even the checkering? Is that basically putting an eye on it or is there some way to ensure uniformity of breadth and depth? I can see that checkering might not be so difficult, but the spirals I would think would be a pain.
Click to expand...

When checkered fluting is the same depth the intesection makes a perfect cross. If the depth is off it will make an X. Spiral fluting uh, eyeball, depth gauge I'd guess.

Mike Quesenberry
ABS Journeyman
 
Most use a triangle file and are very careful to make the depth the same over the entire piece. This is why it is part of the dagger for the MS rating. It takes a lot of skill to do this properly. The recommendation (read as requirement) is the wire is to be half way seated into the groove. SO depth is very important.
 
I came across these pictures of a demo I did at a hammer in. Hope this helps.

Here in this picture I am making the marks needed for drawing the lines for a spiral flute. Look closely at my right hand and try to see on the fluting jig a pointer that is removed in the next picture. They are on both sides of the jig.


Here you see a closeup of the jig. the screws on top are what held the pointers and they are removed. The disk to the right is the indexer. You can see the notches for the index. This one is for 6 flutes. You make marks on each end of the handle, then turn indexer to next notch in indexer wheel, make marks on handle and repeat. You have 6 marks on each side of the handle. In this picture I have a clear acetate that I tape on the end of the handle on the marks but have counted 3 marks around on one side of the handle and that is what gives the spiral.


In this picture I am taping the acetate.



In the top picture I am holding the acetate (even though it is taped) to mark the lines along the acetate, I use a scribe first then fill the scribed line with pencil lead so it wont rub off as I am filing it. I use my left and and grip the handle and use it as a guide for the file and can cause it to remove the pencil mark and that is why I scribe it. the mark stays in the scribed line. In this picture you can see the index wheel and the notches in this picture real well. You gotta have one of these. Send me a e-mail and I will discuss making you one for free.


 
Great pics, Dan. Thanks to everyone who has stepped in to try to explain this process to me. :thumbup: I'm learning, albeit slowly! :o
 
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