Recommendation? Folder build thread, design & WIP - input needed

[REK Knives]

Hey guys. This will be a long OP so bear with me!

I am so grateful to many of you here for supporting me through the years in knife mods. Some of you may know that I am currently moving towards making a run of folders (liner locks) in the near future. I still have final CAD revisions to make and wanted input and thoughts. Please realize that I cannot please everyone but your input is most welcome.

What I'm looking for is general trends and schools of thought to make sure that I am not making any grave errors in the design before they are actually made. Below I've put my thoughts in the design and some questions. I've already made a prototype so this has allowed me to figure out what I like and don't like in this design to some extent. As with most everything I make and mod this knife must be both highly functional and look really good at the same time.

I'm getting my ducks in a row right now, including from the legal side of things. So it will probably be Feb-March 2019 before I start putting some of these out - so I have some time to get it dialed in =) But I will post updates on Instagram @ razoredgeknives so stay tuned there as well! Thanks guys!

Here's the rough draft CAD render, after several revisions (more to come)

General info:
The goal is to make 15 mid techs (in the $500-ish range) and 5 customs ($1k-1200 depending on options). The mid-techs will be a single piece scale (not sure on material yet) w/ pivot collars. The customs will have slanted bolsters and more intricate grinds/finishes.

Scale/frame design:
The handle dimensions are going to be (initially at least), about 5" long and around .600" thick (not quite 5/8ths thick).

As stated this will be a liner lock so it will have Ti liners. I was originally going to just use the Ti at around .070" thick, but I think I will be making the liners a little thicker at about .090" thick and doing a hardened steel lockbar insert. Why? Because all folders wear and all locks wear. Because I've been in the repair/mod/refinishing business for a while now I am very conscientious of this and want to set this up from the beginning in a way that makes repair easy. Should there ever be a need to re-set the lock up early again, or fix lock slip the lockbar insert will make things sooo much easier. And lock slippage is a non issue if the geometry is right so I will get these dialed in perfect.

On the mid techs I am going w/ a single piece scale. Thoughts on material? I am highly considering going with a diamond pattern texture across the surface for some extra grip and to make it stand out a bit from others =) For the customs I was planning on going w/ ti bolsters (or maybe timascus and obviously making everything match), but thoughts on this and what I should use for the lower half?

For the backspacer I was thinking a backspacer for both a more rigid design and because it allows more customizing options. What do you guys think about he jimping there?

Regarding the liners, I have tested shiros (some of the smoothest folders I have owned/felt) and figured out the lock-bar force which I will be attempting to replicate in my own folders. I also want to use washers instead of bearings - specifically teflon as they have one of the lowest coefficient of friction that we know of and they hold up extremely well. If a folder is built right it can feel like it's on bearings but actually be on washers - and be extremely smooth w/ out the issues that bearings bring to the table.

Here's a few renders w/ out the texture I will put on top... In the render I didn't add the counterbore for the pivot collar but it will be there

Blade design:
So the blade will be 5/32" (.156") thick with the option to make it a little thicker at .166" if I would like, and it will be around 4" in length. I added a fuller for both blade weight reduction and additional grip when opening or holding the blade for whatever reason. On the customs I may do some w/ and some without the fuller to change it up.

Ignore the flat grind in the render above - I will be getting these at full thickness and be doing the grind by hand.

You will notice I left a flat portion at the tip and made it as long as possible - this is because I'm grinding all these by hand so this will allow me to shift the tip of the blade where I want it to get different blade shapes and fit as much blade in the frame as possible. I also may add more material to the spine to allow me to grind it to shape there as well - haven't decided yet.

Steel - I am considering Cruwear or M390 heat treated by Peter's and pushing the heardness. My cruwear blade is at 64rc w/ zero issues w/ chipping at 15 dps geometry and it's fantastic. For M390 I would likely go w/ 62rc. Any thoughts on steel/hardness?

As you can see below, there are going to be a ton on blade shape options I can work with, not to mention grinds.

Clip design:
I've posted these renders elsewhere, but it is certainly appropriate here. The clip is something that can easily be overlooked by mfg companies, but I am thinking out everything to the smallest detail.

I designed this clip to be both highly functional and ergonomic w/ no hot spots. I have a 3D printed version out of grade 5 Ti enroute but I will not get it before the beginning of December. This will allow me to test functionality and make any revisions. The goal is to make one w/ enough spring so it's easy to go in and out of the pocket, yet retains enough strength to not deform if it gets caught on something. I also want it to flow w/ the overall "working knife" design w/ no hot spots.

I have had this entire proto both 3D printed and made a working model (w/ a different grind). Here's a few pics... (the printed one is w/ loose tolerances obiously, and it is w/ the slightly thinner liners).

So that's it, looking for thoughts, ideas, comments, and constructive criticism!

 

[Pee Dee Knives]

I like the design very much! Cruwear and micarta. Where do I sign up to be on the list for a mid tech?

Edit: I didn’t read well enough. I would lean towards PB washers. I have a few knives with PB washers, ZT0620, MKT Marauder, and they feel like they are on washers. I think PB would hold up better.

 

[RMspawn]

I really like the idea for a ti liner lock with a steel insert. I also prefer Teflon washer over pb. As far as steel, I’ve had good experiences with m390 and 20cv around 61rc (sadly, no experience with cruwear but willing to give it a go). Ti bolsters with Micarta on the lower half for me. The pocket clip looks good.

The overall design looks great to me; I’m in for a custom drop or clip point (non-flipper).

 

[Pee Dee Knives]

I really like the idea for a ti liner lock with a steel insert. I also prefer Teflon washer over pb. As far as steel, I’ve had good experiences with m390 and 20cv around 61rc (sadly, no experience with cruwear but willing to give it a go). Ti bolsters with canvas Micarta on the lower half for me. The pocket clip looks great to me.

The design looks great to me; I’m in for a custom drop or clip point.

Why would you prefer Teflon over phosphor bronze. I have always heard the in the hierarchy of pivots, Teflon is basically the worst. Not knocking you choice, just trying to understand and maybe learn something.

 

[PirateSeulb]

Looks good I will take that prototype model for further reviewing to help you out

I find myself more drawn to the 2nd and 3rd blade shapes not so sure about the others.

 

[RMspawn]

Why would you prefer Teflon over phosphor bronze. I have always heard the in the hierarchy of pivots, Teflon is basically the worst. Not knocking you choice, just trying to understand and maybe learn something.

Just my experience with my Hinderer knives. I’ve always found myself switching back to Teflon after a pb “upgrade”. Could all just be in my mind, but I find the Teflon action smoother and find fewer issues with blade centering. If it ain’t broke...ymmv.

Edit: It may also be a “designed to run on X or Y” issue. I’ve had plenty of Benchmades that run on bronze washers that had excellent action (blade centering issues aside). What I really mean is that I’m fine with either as long as the maker is happy with the action and will service the knife as needed.

 

[marthinus]

On getting geometry, flipping action etc spot on my advice is to talk to Andre Thorburn.

Design is unique and with the right action in regards to the flipper would seal the deal IMO

 

[SpySmasher]

I like Cruwear a lot.

That pointy wharncliffe is just my style.

 

[Sharp & Fiery]

Hey! I would lean toward PB washers as well...never liked teflon. Thats just my opinion. And I have no reason not to like teflon.
Also, I know we have talked extensively about a non-flipper, but I was thinking...is there a way to make the flipper tab shorter? Like on a Craig Brown Servo? I have both a Servo, and a Shiro, and i find "choking up" for detail work, is more comfortable with a shorter flipper tab. Just throwing this out there to see what others think. By the way, its really coming along, great job! Talk soon!

 

[jaseman]

Well out of my budget, but from a design standpoint, I think it's very well done.

From an industrial designer's eye, my thoughts and comments:
- The handle on the prototype looks very nice. The combo of wood on white is very elegant, and I'm sure as a custom, this would work with many different materials.
- A contrasting spacer between the two materials would really set it off visually (never mind - just noticed the CF)
- The jimping on the butt of the handle in the CAD looks a bit aggressive to me, and seems to detract from the overall lines. But this is more of a personal preference.
- The flipper tab seems very large. I know this is common, but it detracts a bit from the overall aesthetic when closed. I have this gripe with most flippers though. Kershaw did a nice job with the Leek, as it's very unobtrusive. Spyderco's Hanan is a bit more discreet as well. But again, this is more of a personal preference than anything.
- The other thing that bothers me aesthetically when closed is the fuller. I like the fuller, but when closed, the contour of the handle partially covering it drives me nuts. I'd want to see the full length of the fuller unbroken visually.

These are all just minor nit-picks though. Really, I think it's a great looking design. Just thought I'd give you honest feedback.

 

[jstrange]

My taste have moved away from the thick “hard use” type folders, but these look nice. I prefer a nice thin simple slicer grind. I am also am in the “keep it simple” camp so I would prefer washers to bearings. And as always, you just keep gettin better and better Josh. Keep it up brother!

 

[BilboBaggins]

Josh...I suspect you’ll get a ton of comments on the Teflon washer choice. The 2 knives that I’ve handled (and own) that nailed the action on Teflon are the Jason Guthrie Scout and the Demko AD15. If you’re in that ballpark it will be great.

My only other comment relates to the fuller. It would be great if the fuller was deep enough to permit “spydie-flicking” it open. Gives you another opening option and is fun. Don’t know if your blade is thick enough for that...just a thought.

Looks great and I can’t wait to see them in the wild!!

 

[PirateSeulb]

I will say in regards to J jaseman concern over the jimping in the CAD it from what I have heard is that the cad visual representation of things like jimping is often sharper/more aggressive than the product ends up with after machining.

 

[jaseman]

P PirateSeulb I'd agree, especially after seeing how sharp blade jumping is on the CAD vs. the prototype

 

[Pendexter]

Hey Josh, I really like the work you do. I modified my ZT based on inspiration from your instigram. I'm going to mention a few ideas and comments. Please don't take them as criticisms. I'm just throwing ideas out there for either this knife or maybe your next design. I'm sure this will sell out instantly. This is really long, but I wanted to give you some things to consider since you've provided so much to the knife community.

With regards to flipper design and action, the best take on it that I've seen is by this guy on youtube called house of wisdom. He has this video called "the best flipper in the world" where he lists 6 traits of a great flipper:
1. deployment angle
2. detent
3. flipper tab design and shape
4. pivot
5. thumb counter traction
6. distally weighted blade

I encourage all of you to check out that video. It was very informative. And he has some high end flippers to compare. Thorburns, Shiros, etc. You can compare your knife action to the 6 traits and modify if necessary.

I agree with jaseman regarding the fuller. The lenth of it doesn't seem right. If you are doing it to save weight, the longer it is, the more weight you'd save.
Having the fuller meeting the shoulder (in the CAD render) means that you can't reprofile the primary (or is it called secondary?) grind without eating into that fuller. If it was an 1/8" higher up, you'd have space to modify the angle on the primary. That might not matter since you tend to use hollow grinds. I noticed that the fuller is higher up on your wood bolstered prototype.

In the closed position, the fact that the finger groove is crossing the fuller breakes up the flow of the lines. If the fuller was higher, it would be above the finger groove.
- this is personal preference, but I prefer less finger grooves rather than more. That way there are more options for different grips. For example, I prefer the ergos of the XM18 vs the ZT0562 due to the ZT having the second groove.
- is this designed for (2) fingers before the groove and (2) after? Can you post a photo of you with your hands gripping the knife?

Since you are a knife modder, have you thought about the ease of costimization for your knives?
For the customs: Due to this being a linerlock with separate materials for the bolster and the handle, it looks like you can swap out materials, like on the Lionsteel slipjoints. Is that true?

Are you going to skeletonize the liners or handle material? This goes back to the question of your target weight. Since it's a 4" folder, I'm thinking 5oz would be a good weight (my personal opinion).

Clip: Will this 3 hole clip design be interchangible with other manufacturers? It looks similar to the Benchmade layout.
Will you have a deep carry option?
Have you considered milling out the scale so that you can reduce the number of screws required to hold in the clip by mating those two surfaces at a set orientation?
For example, the Sebenza or XM18 use that technique.

Looking at the blue prototype and the working model with wood bolsters, it looks like the orientation of the flipper tab is curved in oposite directions. The blue prototype is hooking up which I like, and the wood bolstered one looks like it curves down, which would reduce the amount of purchase you have when light switching the flipper tab (the youtube video I mentioned earlier goes into details on this). The wood bolstered knife also has the flipper tab right where the index finger would go using a standard grip, which might create a hot spot.

For the pivot, I think that theoretically, the more threads per inch, the more granular you can tune the action. I don't know where you get your pivot screws from, but the more threads, the better in my book. I also like that you're using a standard Torx bit. Will you be able to get by with (2) sizes total for disassembly? I know that some knives use 3 or 4 or even more different size bits. Drives me nuts when tinkering. Also, please use a captive pivot. None of this (2) screwdriver nonsense just to disassemble the knife...

Teflon washers: I have no problem with them, but due to the "common wisdom" that they are not as good as PB or bearings, I think that a you might have to sell them to people, or provide a separate option, like Hinderer does with their tri-way pivot.
I think the genisis of the "teflon is bad" idea is that teflon washers are seen on lower end knives, so people associate teflon with poor action. I'm broke and wouldn't be able to afford one of your knives, but if I could, I'd feel a lot better if the knife came with maybe (2) sets of spare teflon washers. They just don't seem as durable as the other options, but if the knife came with spares, then people would worry less because if they wore out or broke, they could just swap them out.

For a 4" knife, finger choils are nice... But I know that they aren't for everybody...

Hope this helps!

 

[REK Knives]

I like the design very much! Cruwear and micarta. Where do I sign up to be on the list for a mid tech?

Edit: I didn’t read well enough. I would lean towards PB washers. I have a few knives with PB washers, ZT0620, MKT Marauder, and they feel like they are on washers. I think PB would hold up better.

No lists haha, I'm still a couple of months out on this and I am not doing pre-payments like many do

Why would you prefer Teflon over phosphor bronze. I have always heard the in the hierarchy of pivots, Teflon is basically the worst. Not knocking you choice, just trying to understand and maybe learn something.

I have worked on thousands of knives, many of which have teflon washers. I have never seen teflon worn out or any other issues on any quality folders. I've worked on some really old Hinderers w/ teflong and the same applies. Sure on some cheap folders that have a lot of play and don't get any maintenance they can get sand in there and tear them up, but even that hasn't seemed to be an issue on .015" or thicker washers.

The coefficient of friction of both is interesting (ref here), teflon is way more lubricious than pb, meaning much less oil required:

But the good news is that they could be switched with pb very simply, shoot I may just include a set of each

Just my experience with my Hinderer knives. I’ve always found myself switching back to Teflon after a pb “upgrade”. Could all just be in my mind, but I find the Teflon action smoother and find fewer issues with blade centering. If it ain’t broke...ymmv.

Edit: It may also be a “designed to run on X or Y” issue. I’ve had plenty of Benchmades that run on bronze washers that had excellent action (blade centering issues aside). What I really mean is that I’m fine with either as long as the maker is happy with the action and will service the knife as needed.

I think you nailed it. If the action is spot on it shouldn't really matter. In my experience if everything is parallel and flat then the washer material doesn't make much difference.

Hey! I would lean toward PB washers as well...never liked teflon. Thats just my opinion. And I have no reason not to like teflon.
Also, I know we have talked extensively about a non-flipper, but I was thinking...is there a way to make the flipper tab shorter? Like on a Craig Brown Servo? I have both a Servo, and a Shiro, and i find "choking up" for detail work, is more comfortable with a shorter flipper tab. Just throwing this out there to see what others think. By the way, its really coming along, great job! Talk soon!

I'm thinking about how to do this... But like we discussed, I can set this up to work w/ or w/ out a flipper tab, and w/ or w/ out a thumb stud so it's a versatile design. I did make a nice cut out in the scales there for a finger choil if I were to remove the flipper tab

Well out of my budget, but from a design standpoint, I think it's very well done.

From an industrial designer's eye, my thoughts and comments:
- The handle on the prototype looks very nice. The combo of wood on white is very elegant, and I'm sure as a custom, this would work with many different materials.
- A contrasting spacer between the two materials would really set it off visually (never mind - just noticed the CF)
- The jimping on the butt of the handle in the CAD looks a bit aggressive to me, and seems to detract from the overall lines. But this is more of a personal preference.
- The flipper tab seems very large. I know this is common, but it detracts a bit from the overall aesthetic when closed. I have this gripe with most flippers though. Kershaw did a nice job with the Leek, as it's very unobtrusive. Spyderco's Hanan is a bit more discreet as well. But again, this is more of a personal preference than anything.
- The other thing that bothers me aesthetically when closed is the fuller. I like the fuller, but when closed, the contour of the handle partially covering it drives me nuts. I'd want to see the full length of the fuller unbroken visually.

These are all just minor nit-picks though. Really, I think it's a great looking design. Just thought I'd give you honest feedback.

Thanks so much, your honest feedback is much appreciated!! Point taken about the flipper tab and jimping. Do you think I should have any jimping down there or just make it smooth? I may switch it up to have some flat tops on the jimping w/ more spacing in between. Regarding the fuller, what If I mod the handle (see below)?

My taste have moved away from the thick “hard use” type folders, but these look nice. I prefer a nice thin simple slicer grind. I am also am in the “keep it simple” camp so I would prefer washers to bearings. And as always, you just keep gettin better and better Josh. Keep it up brother!

bro, you know that what I make will CUT What I am making I want to both function at the top of it's game, but also look beautiful. But I'm with you, that's one reason why I decided to go w/ a liner lock instead of a framelock. I feel like 'hard use' framelocks have saturated the market.

Josh...I suspect you’ll get a ton of comments on the Teflon washer choice. The 2 knives that I’ve handled (and own) that nailed the action on Teflon are the Jason Guthrie Scout and the Demko AD15. If you’re in that ballpark it will be great.

My only other comment relates to the fuller. It would be great if the fuller was deep enough to permit “spydie-flicking” it open. Gives you another opening option and is fun. Don’t know if your blade is thick enough for that...just a thought.

Looks great and I can’t wait to see them in the wild!!

I think it will work... I enlarged the fuller from it's original design and I can use it to flick it open on the original proto, although I don't have the detent set real strong. Thanks for your input man, it's much appreciated!

 

[REK Knives]

Hey Josh, I really like the work you do. I modified my ZT based on inspiration from your instigram. I'm going to mention a few ideas and comments. Please don't take them as criticisms. I'm just throwing ideas out there for either this knife or maybe your next design. I'm sure this will sell out instantly. This is really long, but I wanted to give you some things to consider since you've provided so much to the knife community.

I am really grateful you took the time to write this up! Thanks so much!!!

With regards to flipper design and action, the best take on it that I've seen is by this guy on youtube called house of wisdom. He has this video called "the best flipper in the world" where he lists 6 traits of a great flipper:
1. deployment angle
2. detent
3. flipper tab design and shape
4. pivot
5. thumb counter traction
6. distally weighted blade

I encourage all of you to check out that video. It was very informative. And he has some high end flippers to compare. Thorburns, Shiros, etc. You can compare your knife action to the 6 traits and modify if necessary.

I did watch that video thanks!! And while I don't agree w/ everything in the video, he does a great job talking though the different points and comparing multiple knives. It would be nice if he actually ranked the above categories in order from greatest to least.

Imho, if a folder is properly made w/ everything lined up and parallel/flat, the greatest hindrance to smooth opening/closing is the detent drag that occurs on the blade tang. This comes from the amount of tension on the lock bar (and of course the finish of the detent track to some extent). There is a fine balance between having the lockbar tension set properly w/ semi early lock up (~20-30%) w/ the right amount of force required to disengage.

For example, I've checked the lbs of force required to fully disengage the lockbar and detent ball on shirogorovs, and it's generally ~2 lbs. The 3 smoothest folders I think I've ever felt are grimsmo, shirogorov, and Brian Nadeau's Cyclone. I've got to examine each pretty well so that is a huge benefit to me. But his points about the flipper tabs have me thinking about slightly re-designing this with a little more 'deployment angle' - although this can be mostly overcome (as he admits in the video) with proper pivot action and detent lock up.

I agree with jaseman regarding the fuller. The lenth of it doesn't seem right. If you are doing it to save weight, the longer it is, the more weight you'd save.
Having the fuller meeting the shoulder (in the CAD render) means that you can't reprofile the primary (or is it called secondary?) grind without eating into that fuller. If it was an 1/8" higher up, you'd have space to modify the angle on the primary. That might not matter since you tend to use hollow grinds. I noticed that the fuller is higher up on your wood bolstered prototype.

Good points on the fuller. I may extend it forward a bit and move it towards the tip and up towards the spine a tad. On the proto I made I had it continuing off of the end of the blade but I came to realize that really limits my grind work at the tip so I had to shorten it.

In the render, the fuller meets the grind only because the CAD engineer decided to put the grind in there. You can ignore the grind in the render because I will be hand grinding this and can bring it up as high (or low) as I want but yeah I think I will move it up slightly.

In the closed position, the fact that the finger groove is crossing the fuller brakes up the flow of the lines. If the fuller was higher, it would be above the finger groove.
- this is personal preference, but I prefer less finger grooves rather than more. That way there are more options for different grips. For example, I prefer the ergos of the XM18 vs the ZT0562 due to the ZT having the second groove.
- is this designed for (2) fingers before the groove and (2) after? Can you post a photo of you with your hands gripping the knife?

yes it's designed for 2 fingers to fit in the forward groove. In addition to moving the fuller up towards the spine, I could also mod the handle like this:

I'm also probably going to do several w/ out the fuller to allow for more options... any recommendations on percentages of those w/ vs those without? <- for anyone to chime in on...

Since you are a knife modder, have you thought about the ease of custimization for your knives?
For the customs: Due to this being a linerlock with separate materials for the bolster and the handle, it looks like you can swap out materials, like on the Lionsteel slipjoints. Is that true?

I haven't given it much thought other than the customization aspect for me for those that purchase one, or repair work down the road. But yes, of course anyone can switch out the scale material or backspacer, etc/ on their own if they wish to customize - that's up to them.

Are you going to skeletonize the liners or handle material? This goes back to the question of your target weight. Since it's a 4" folder, I'm thinking 5oz would be a good weight (my personal opinion).

I had not considered that but now that you mention it, that's a good idea. I wonder how much weight that would save. I do have an idea on an ultralight version of this for the future though, it would be sick. 2 x CF scales w/ a steel lockbar insert (no liners) and standoffs instead of a backspacer.

Clip: Will this 3 hole clip design be interchangeable with other manufacturers? It looks similar to the Benchmade layout.
Will you have a deep carry option?
Have you considered milling out the scale so that you can reduce the number of screws required to hold in the clip by mating those two surfaces at a set orientation?
For example, the Sebenza or XM18 use that technique.

Yes it's a 3 hole design that will fit emerson's and benchmade models. I do have a recess for the clip to sit in on the scales but was going to use 3 screw clip anyway because it's compatible w/ the other knives above.

Looking at the blue prototype and the working model with wood bolsters, it looks like the orientation of the flipper tab is curved in oposite directions. The blue prototype is hooking up which I like, and the wood bolstered one looks like it curves down, which would reduce the amount of purchase you have when light switching the flipper tab (the youtube video I mentioned earlier goes into details on this). The wood bolstered knife also has the flipper tab right where the index finger would go using a standard grip, which might create a hot spot.

I set up the flipper tab on the proto like the one on a zt 0220. It actually works great but you are right, it does get in the way of the index finger a bit. Thus we re-designed it to match the flow/curve of the scales.

I also like that you're using a standard Torx bit. Will you be able to get by with (2) sizes total for disassembly? I know that some knives use 3 or 4 or even more different size bits. Drives me nuts when tinkering. Also, please use a captive pivot. None of this (2) screwdriver nonsense just to disassemble the knife...

I had a bunch of 1/4" pivots made to fit Hinderer XM18's so that's what I used in the proto and the 3d printed version (tools for this type pivot are very plentiful). But I think I will probalby switch for a double t-8 torx screws fastener w/ a barrel pivot. So this way, as you point out, it could be fully disassembled w/ a t8 and t6 torx bit. Either way it would be a 2-3 tool operation (since you would need another tool on the back-side of the pivot possibly).

Teflon washers: I have no problem with them, but due to the "common wisdom" that they are not as good as PB or bearings, I think that a you might have to sell them to people, or provide a separate option, like Hinderer does with their tri-way pivot.
I think the genisis of the "teflon is bad" idea is that teflon washers are seen on lower end knives, so people associate teflon with poor action. I'm broke and wouldn't be able to afford one of your knives, but if I could, I'd feel a lot better if the knife came with maybe (2) sets of spare teflon washers. They just don't seem as durable as the other options, but if the knife came with spares, then people would worry less because if they wore out or broke, they could just swap them out.

They can feel amazing, trust me. The hinderer he used in the video was not adjusted properly. When adjusted and dialed in properly the blade should basically fall shut or open w/ out any play.

For a 4" knife, finger choils are nice... But I know that they aren't for everybody...

Hope this helps!

I am setting this up from the beginning to work w/ a nice finger choil if desired. I think it would be really nice to choke up in a forward grip in certain circumstances.

Thanks so much for your input!!

 

[Pee Dee Knives]

Josh, thank you for taking the time to answer all of these questions. I will definitely try to get one once they come up for sale.

I would probably just include a set of PB and a set of Teflon washers, that way everyone is happy.

 

[REK Knives]

Josh, thank you for taking the time to answer all of these questions. I will definitely try to get one once they come up for sale.

I would probably just include a set of PB and a set of Teflon washers, that way everyone is happy.

you're welcome. I think that is probably the best policy =)

 

[Night Rider]

Josh thanks for sharing your work with us It's awesome to see your vision come to fruition and with the tweaks your choosing from the input here I feel it's coming together nicely and would be proud to own one. I'm a big fan of anything timascus,wharncliffe, and clip point blade plus I was going to suggest dropping a set of PB and nylon washers in the box but you beat me to it looks like your getting close to the end result sir, good luck and godspeed