Folder Deployment/Closing Tips and Tricks

I would love to learn your new method because I also have a few knives that require a two-step slow roll.

I’ve been sitting here trying it with no luck but maybe I don’t fully understand.

If you don’t mind my asking, what do you mean by “outward pressure with both”? That might be the part that I’m doing wrong because I’m pushing upward with both.
I just had a go. I think he means a pinch grip on both thumbstuds.
 
Yesterday I was showing a guy how to thumb flick his knife with the stud. He was having trouble until I told him to try and dig his finger nail into the corner where the stud and the blade meet. He immediately got a grip on the leverage and was confidently flicking several different models like a champ. It was fun to watch him work it all out after being frustrated with it.
 
I prefer thumbstud and flicking em.

Never had a problem with the slow roll as mentioned but do have to hold it differently than when flicking. Maybe this helps, notice the knife lays in the fingers for the slow roll vs being in the palm ti flick.

Position for the slow roll
IMG_3338.jpegIMG_3339.jpegIMG_3340.jpeg

Vs for flicking
IMG_3341.jpeg
 
I prefer thumbstud and flicking em.

Never had a problem with the slow roll as mentioned but do have to hold it differently than when flicking. Maybe this helps, notice the knife lays in the fingers for the slow roll vs being in the palm ti flick.

Position for the slow roll
View attachment 2670953View attachment 2670954View attachment 2670955

Vs for flicking
View attachment 2670952

I see how having it out there would give you some additional reach for smooth extension. Got an Arius NF on me at the moment, but will be trying this ASAP Sir!
 
I prefer thumb holes for opening. But I like big tough knives like the Cold Steel Recon 1. Those come with thumb studs. I remove the studs and put a zip tie through the hole. This allows me to slow roll or flick open with my thumb and I can remove the zip tie when I strop or sharpen on stones. Thumb studs just get in my way.
 
I prefer thumb holes for opening. But I like big tough knives like the Cold Steel Recon 1. Those come with thumb studs. I remove the studs and put a zip tie through the hole. This allows me to slow roll or flick open with my thumb and I can remove the zip tie when I strop or sharpen on stones. Thumb studs just get in my way.

That is cool! The gents in Michigan will put a custom peanut hole in there for a nominal charge as well.
 
Axis lock folders can be swung open depending on how tight your hinge is.

Place the back of the handle diagonally in your palm with the top of the handle back just above the middle knuckle of the index finger. Use the pinky, ring, and middle fingers to secure the knife in the palm by grasping on the top edge of the pocket clip facing the blade. These fingers must be clear of the blade opening path. Grasp the Axis lock pins one either side of the handle and pull them simultaneously to loosen the tension on the blade. With the hinge side pointing downward, flick your wrist up and away to swing the loose blade open and release the Axis pins so the lock engages. If it helps picture the position better, imagine make a pointing your finger like a pistol with the index finger and thumb opened, but the other three tucked in. Hold the pocket clip with your three tucked fingers as the closed blade is facing away from your hand. The other two fingers work the lock. The grip will change depending on the length of your fingers, but that is the basic idea.

With the opened blade in the same grip, you pull the lock pins to close it and roll the back of your blade against your leg to push it closed and release the lock again. Your fingers are on the clip, so they should be clear of the blade path.
 
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Axis lock folders can be swung open depending on how tight your hinge is.

Place the back of the handle diagonally in your palm with the top of the handle back just above the middle knuckle of the index finger. Use the pinky, ring, and middle fingers to secure the knife in the palm by grasping on the top edge of the pocket clip facing the blade. These fingers must be clear of the blade opening path. Grasp the Axis lock pins one either side of the handle and pull them simultaneously to loosen the tension on the blade. With the hinge side pointing downward, flick your wrist up and away to swing the loose blade open and release the Axis pins so the lock engages. If it helps picture the position better, imagine make a pointing your finger like a pistol with the index finger and thumb opened, but the other three tucked in. Hold the pocket clip with your three tucked fingers as the closed blade is facing away from your hand. The other two fingers work the lock. The grip will change depending on the length of your fingers, but that is the basic idea.

With the opened blade in the same grip, you pull the lock pins to close it and roll the back edge of your blade against your leg to push it closed and release the lock again. Your fingers are on the clip, so they should be clear of the blade path.
The Microtech version ram lock is even easier as you can easily manipulate the lock from only one side. I do it all the time with my amphibian.
 
I mainly carry flippers.

I just place my index finger on flipper tab while removing knife from pocket & open blade w/tab as the pivot end clears the pocket. Easy, peasy.

I also carry knives w/wave tabs, which are even easier to open than flippers, by catching the tab on the rear pocket corner as the knife is removed from the pocket & the knife opens by itself.

I also carry Spyderco & other knives with (key)holes in the blade. I've never perfected the Spydie hole finger flick. So, I just use my thumb to slow open these types of folders. I could zip-tie the holes in these knives to wave them but I've got enough waved knives not to need to bother doing that.

I also carry knives with compression & axis-type locks (like those offered by Spyderco & Benchmade), most of which can be opened w/a flick of the wrist by disengaging the lock (by pressing on the compression lock tab or pulling back on the axis-lock button) while pulling the knife out my pocket & then re-engaging it (by letting go the tab or button) immediately after the knife clears the pocket & simultaneously flicking the blade open. Easily done once you get the timing down.

And I also own knives w/thumb studs & discs attached to the blades to use as opening devices but I never carry them because thumb studs & discs don't work well for me. So, opening them while carrying them is not an issue for me. 🤷‍♂️
 
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For me just decades of carry have made my preferred EDC into a knife I can get out and open up with a good grip every time. I can get mine out and open faster than any auto I've ever carried without thought. It's just plain muscle memory from using the same knives over 30 years. I carry an Endura but honestly it's not the knife but the repetition. I even have nerve and tendon issues as well as arthritis in my hands so the knife I use is selected for that but it's still about the practice and not design or style. A flipper or auto will actually slow me down at this point.
 
For me just decades of carry have made my preferred EDC into a knife I can get out and open up with a good grip every time. I can get mine out and open faster than any auto I've ever carried without thought. It's just plain muscle memory from using the same knives over 30 years. I carry an Endura but honestly it's not the knife but the repetition. I even have nerve and tendon issues as well as arthritis in my hands so the knife I use is selected for that but it's still about the practice and not design or style. A flipper or auto will actually slow me down at this point.

Incoming cheesiness.

This is why I practice all methods and try to improve muscle memory and technique where possible. Don't want to just open and close them, want to know them inside and out. Make them an extension of my hands across the range of methods and mechanisms.
 
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