folder design

S

Sandeggo

Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Messages
254
I am looking to dive into folders. I have been researching and looking at WIP's both here and on builders sites. I have come up with a rough design on what I am looking to build for my first one. I want to build a liner lock. I have the tools to build it. I have designed it using Microsoft wordCAD lol. What should I change and/or look out for?
I'm planning to use:
1/8" 1095
Titanium liners 1/16"?
.187" pivot pin and bearings from Alpha
.0625" SS ball detent
2-56 torx screws to secure liners and scales
The blade spine sticks out of the front of the scales to use as a flipper.
DE39D969-3CCF-48AA-8899-DC3B1E7A1690_zpszcv6pefc.jpg
 
I would go with Chuck's suggestion...just eyeballing it looks like the bottom of the tang might not clear the stop pin which might also cause a problem if you were hoping it would stick out past the liner to use as your flipper trigger.
 
Busto said:
I would go with Chuck's suggestion...just eyeballing it looks like the bottom of the tang might not clear the stop pin which might also cause a problem if you were hoping it would stick out past the liner to use as your flipper trigger.
Click to expand...
You can see in the closed drawing it's sticking out the front of the knife, not the traditional flipper area on the spine.
 
Ya, and the contact point of where the lock would meet the tang is nearly inline with the pivot. It needs to be lower with as close to 90 degrees of a line connecting those two points and the direction of force running down the lockbar.

Mark
 
Don Hanson III said:
I'll explain; When the blade is half way closed, the lock bar will fall off the tang. You need enough area around the pivot for the detent ball to ride on.
Click to expand...

Well that makes perfect sense. So if I were to continue the radius and got rid of the front finger notch it will work better.
 
Varga Knives said:
Ya, and the contact point of where the lock would meet the tang is nearly inline with the pivot. It needs to be lower with as close to 90 degrees of a line connecting those two points and the direction of force running down the lockbar.

Mark
Click to expand...

How much lower than the pivot does the lock bar typically need to be?
 
I would suggest to go google the Ray Rogers tutorial: Let's Design a Liner Lock Folding Knife! on his website
It is very well done, and he went through all the desing effects on the mechanisms involved. I liked it because he'll give you the base ground for your own design and helpful tricks how to work around some critcal steps during the build.
Hope it will help you with your project, and always drill square!!

Stefano
 
Simple question... complicated answer!

- read the Bob Terzoula book until you have it memorized


For the knife itself...

- try moving your blade and pivot forward together

- you need some room under the pivot or your lock... behind it will not work well (step one will help with this)

- I'd consider working on a more conventional stop pin setup (end of blade and choil) The front flipper is cool, I'd keep it but I think this will help out.


I really hope this helps!





-
 
Will Microsoft wordCAD allow you to have the blade as a "block", then rotate the blade in liner to check clearances? If not, find a decent FREE cad program that will allow rotating. I've been using AutoCAD, but recently I've used DraftSight program. These allow you to create a blade, a liner, then put them together as in a real knife, rotate blade and see how it all works.

Of course, if you really wish to get tech, use a 3D program (Aspire?) and create all the parts in 3D, and you can work with clearances to .001" to really check the fit.

Ken H>
 
Cut your patterns on thin aluminum, then put a pin thru the pivot point and play with it some. You'll see quickly how it's working - or not working and where to make changes. I found some "for sale" signs for a nickel each somewhere and they really work good for stuff like that. Too thin for much, but quick 'n dirty patterns work good.

Ken
 
Ken H> said:
Will Microsoft wordCAD allow you to have the blade as a "block", then rotate the blade in liner to check clearances? If not, find a decent FREE cad program that will allow rotating. I've been using AutoCAD, but recently I've used DraftSight program. These allow you to create a blade, a liner, then put them together as in a real knife, rotate blade and see how it all works.

Of course, if you really wish to get tech, use a 3D program (Aspire?) and create all the parts in 3D, and you can work with clearances to .001" to really check the fit.

Ken H>
Click to expand...

What I have done is copy and paste the blade, rotate it, and line up the pivots to see if it fits. But no, it rotates on the center of the object, not a determined pivot point.
 
Printing out your design on paper making a pattern on cardboard is also a viable method that I use on fixed and folders too (though not as accurate as aluminum). You definitely want to model your lock bar geometry though.
 
Sandeggo said:
How much lower than the pivot does the lock bar typically need to be?
Click to expand...

Just because a design will work on paper or a mock-up doesn't mean it will work as a knife. Ideally the contact point of your tang should be directly below and far away from the pivot. Every design out there, though, is a compromise at some point because aesthetics and ergonomics have to play their part. Read the books and tutorials and make your own judgements as to how you want to interpret your compromises.

Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top