Folder pivot

It's 2x as expensive? Not a significant cost on a finished knife but I'm certainly not going to use it for my first attempts/prototypes that likely will never be sold.

You've got some really well priced pieces of Ti, some are half the price by cubic inch of what Jantz or other suppliers have, and even those pieces are twice as much as 410 stainless. I'll certainly be buying it from you in the future.
 
Be sure to factor in the cost of time spent heat treating, and the foil, and the electricity. Material cost is only part of the total expense.

I understand the desire to minimize costs when prototyping. However, we've learned to prototype using the same materials that will be used in the finished product. This eliminates the step of adjusting to new speeds and feeds for different materials.

We carried 410 stainless steel for years. We had the largest selection (.040"-.187") of any supplier. The only repeat customers for 410 were knifemakers who made slipjoint folders. All the other knifemakers who tried 410 switched to titanium. If you doubt me, go to a show and count the number of linerlocks made from 410. Collectors will not buy them.

Just a few thoughts to consider.

Chuck
 
I hadn't thought of that. I was trying to figure out what I would do with a scrap liner other than throw it away.
 
On 410 I don't use foil I heat treat with a torch since the material is relatively thin get it red hot force air cool and temper at 325 for one hour never had one fail. Sure they sell for less money tan my Ti models but my market is very tight budgeted.
Chuck is my go to on Ti as well as folder parts and blade steels!
 
Hello guys,
thanks for all the help, I have another question (starting to think I should change the thread name to "questions on making folders") or some such.

Anyway I have never tapped screw holes but I think that for this project I will need too. Regardless of whether I go for a liner lock or lockback I think that I'd like to be able to disassemble this first folder, hence screws.
I would like to know if you have recommendations regarding this:
1) what type of screws should I use?
2) what type of taps (is there several?)

I will likely use high carbon steel liners (regardless of whether it will be a lockback or liner lock, I may go to something more fancy later but I know how to deal with O1 and I don't want to add too many unnecessary unknowns and costs)
I'll use wood for the scales
 
yep, I have it, very nice book which will help a lot.
It does suppose a bit more equipment than I have and a bit more familiarity with it than I have (for instance in the book he machines the pivot).
The book is the reason why I haven't asked any question about the exact geometry of the end of the blade or of the part of the lock which engages with it.
That is because the book is nicely detailed on those things in a way which I am confident that I will be able to follow.

Thanks for a great advice.
 
When it comes to choices on screws there are "Inch" or "Metric" you have to decide which will work best for your needs. I don't use screws smaller than 0-72's and most are done with 2-56 and 4-40 all inch sizes. I use stainless flat head 0-72's on liners hidden by scales and use 2-56/4-40 stainless for exposed on bolsters and scales. I use 2-56 black oxide coated for all my mock up since they are less expensive than stainless. You will have to shorten most if not all screws for final assembly so I would suggest a fixture to screw all those that need to be shortened and use a grinder to get them to length.

Taps...you will need them in each size screw hole you intend to tap. Buy GOOD taps and I would recommend a Tap Guide since these are small diameter and don't like to flex without bending. Since I started using a tap guide years ago I haven't broken a single tap they just get dull and I throw them away. When you do through hole tapping a tapered tap will be what you want, but if you are doing any blind holes a bottoming tap is what you want.

All the folders I build that are frame lock, Liner Lock, and Lock back I use screws....I only use pins on traditional slipjoint knives. There is nothing to say you can't use pins or screws on any of these types it's all up to your design and choice.

Good Luck
Mike
 
Thank you Mike this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. As a French I'd normally favor metrics but living in the US inches are probably easier to find.

I think I'll use through holes everywhere to make it simpler.

So Based on that I will need two kinds of screws which could be the same size initially:
Flathead for the ones going through the liners and spacers and button head for the ones holding the scales to the liner.
Then I need a matching tap, a tap guide the corresponding drill slightly smaller (probably have it) a reamer for the exact screw size (maybe two one for the inner one for the outer diameter.
And a pivot, corresponding pivot screws and finally some washers.

You talked about good raps and a tap guide, do you have recommendations on which to get?

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You should get a Drill and Tap chart so that you will know what size drill to use for the holes you intend to tap. The Chart gives specific sizes for the small drills and they are "Numbered" drills. The Drill is actually smaller than the size of the screw that the tap will have to form the threads. This tool is a tap holding guide and the best piece of equipment for the money to keep your tap straight and reduce breakage...https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2898&category=1385080466

When it comes to taps I like the OSG brand they seem to last forever with proper care and making sure I have used enough lubricant.

The only holes I ream are the Pivot holes and the Stop Pin hole. Without a Reamer you will have problems with a clean tight straight smooth fit...
 
I am thinking of ordering 3/16 inch pivots, where do you find corresponding bronze washers? Also if anyone thinks that 3/16 is a bad choice I'd like to know. Hopefully its not since that is what I bought a reamer for.
 
No, not a bad choice at all.
Get used to checking multiple places and losing money on shipping. AKS didn't have pb washers last I checked. They're my favorite place for pivots and bearings, but for bronze or nylatron washers check jantz and USA knife maker. Inside diameter will be 3/16, outside diameter is usually 1/2" or so.
 
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Josh Rider said:
No, not a bad choice at all.
Get used to checking multiple places and losing money on shipping. AKS didn't have on washers last I checked. They're my favorite place for pivots and bearings, but for bronze or nylatron washers check jantz and USA knife maker. Inside diameter will be 3/16, outside diameter is usually 1/2" or so.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I am unfortunately getting used to losing money on shipping.
By the way I am progressing on that first lock back folder. I am currently making an aluminium test knife to validate the geometry of the lock. The idea will be to keep the liners in aluminium but make blade lock and so on in steel and the scales in wood.
I think I'll pin the parts together as it is what I know how to do and I think tackling the lock mechanism and the pivot is enough new stuff for now without having to learn (and get the tools) how to tap. One step at a time! Also in the book "the lockback knife" it is recommended to build a cylindrical fixture to attach to the blade in order to file the radius on which the lock will ride. Any recommendations on how to build such a thing or what to use? I'd need a steel cylinder with a specified outer diameter and inner diameter? Also While I can see how crucial the geometry of the lock and notch is (my first test is very wobbly I need to be more precise) I am not sure about how important is the geometry of that radius


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