Folder with great Edge Retention.

F

flip888

Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
190
So, I was using my spyderco tenatious today for cutting ivy and tree roots at work, and it pretty much dissapointed me. I may have hit dirt a few times but after only like 5 mins of work the edge was totally gone. It started uprooting the ivy instead of actually cutting it, it was so blunt. So obviously 8cr13mov is a rather cheap chinese steel and you can't expect it to hold an edge like the higher end stuff, but this simply won't work for me...
I don't have many stainless knives, only a couple spydercos and a kershaw skyline, I'm more of a carbon steel guy, but I need my work knife to be stainless.

My question is, what's a $45~ (needs to be somewhat disposable) knife that will hold a good edge for a long time? Preferably something fully serrated.

Eric.
 
If you don't need a larger knife, I think a SE Native would suit the task. $50 shipped from most online retailers.
 
flip888 said:
My question is, what's a $45~ (needs to be somewhat disposable) knife that will hold a good edge for a long time? Preferably something fully serrated.

Eric.
Click to expand...

I suggest the Spyderco Delica with a fully serrated blade of ZDP-189.

You can pick one up for around $55.00 if you look around, and IMO it's worth every penny.
ZDP-189 is one of the top blade steels currently available; the knife will hold its edge for a very long time.
 
Last edited:
I agree, rifon2. ZDP-189 is best slicing / cutting steels there are if you look edge retention. Endura or Delica with ZDP-189 would be excellent slicer with serious edge retention. I am not sure if it falls $45ish but you should definately get one for under $60
 
I've abused my all stainless VG10 Spyderco Endura and never had trouble. I have cut cans open and dismantled furniture with it. I have used the handle as a hammer and also cracked pecans with it. It needs a touch up on the blade but it is ready for years of more of this treatment.
 
You can have the best steel in the world and digging through dirt or cutting things with dirt on it will make it go dull in short order. Better steel is going to help but not much.
 
Dozier's D2 and Strider's S30V impressed me.

At the $50 pricepoint, VG10 and SGPS (look for the Blur factory seconds) pretty much are great.

AUS6/8 normally tend to roll a lot, especially if you put an acute bevel on it.
 
Below you will see two made in USA Buck knives with very similar S30V blades, the dymondwood scaled liner lock #347 Vantage Pro and the Ti framelock #172 Mayo TNT. The Vantage Pro has an MSRP of $75 - runs $47 at Bass Pro Shops, etc, while the classy TNT is a bit more - MSRP $350!

IMG_4128.jpg


The Vantage Pro is a bargain - and a great EDC. The heat treat is great - fantastic edge retention. Despite cutting hose, gaskets, boxes, food, and even opening bills, over the last year, it is still sharp. I've re-edged my Spydie Native in S30V with my Sharpmaker - time consuming - and you have to know when it is 'sharp enough'. Ultimate sharpness, like a 420HC Buck 110 can attain, is not easily obtained, in my experience. No matter the steel, dousing it in soil is a recipe for disaster, in my experience. Even little pebbles are not very forgiving!

Stainz
 
knifenut1013 said:
You can have the best steel in the world and digging through dirt or cutting things with dirt on it will make it go dull in short order. Better steel is going to help but not much.
Click to expand...

That is what I was thinking.

Maybe there are some thin bladed knives, 1/16 inch or so, that are made of a decently heat treated steel out there.
 
ZDP is a great steel.
(If you want great slicing skill, get a blemish Kershaw CB ZDP Blur from Kershawguy. :thumbup:)
 
knifenut1013 said:
You can have the best steel in the world and digging through dirt or cutting things with dirt on it will make it go dull in short order. Better steel is going to help but not much.
Click to expand...

Agreed, get an axe, hatchet, digging iron, tree saw, etc. Right tool for the job.
 
ditto to knifenut, it would be better to use gardening tools for soil work & save your folder for cutting in other mediums. add to the cleanup work after working in damp soil or mud & most folders are not good in this catagorey.
 
Last edited:
You could always get a Mora Carbon Clipper for $15. Its edge retention I can't match with any other knife I own.
 
I agree with knifenut. The grit making up "dirt" (sand and clay) is much harder than steel, they're just not fused together. When you're sharpening, you're using that same abrasive quality for you rather than against you.
 
For about $60 or so, you could get a fully serrated H1 knife from Spyderco. H1 work hardens so the more you use it and sharpen it, the harder it gets. Plus, H1 doesn't rust so you can beat the hell out of it.
 
I was just looking at this thread and the Buck Vantage Pro was recommended.

Why is this knife so inexpensive as compared to other knives that has an S30V
blade? The knife is also made in the USA correct? Is it a high quality knife that's priced low or is it not made from quality materials?

Anyway, sorry to hijack this thread but maybe this will help the OP out too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top