- Joined
- May 2, 1999
- Messages
- 1,206
Again, that's what I'm saying. Design issues.
We're not discussing existing locks, we're discussing possibilities.
Anyway, a pivot pin needn't be thin, and a stop pin isn't the only way to do a blade stop. As I pointed out, many navajas have a bladestop that is integral to their handle, and the handle can easily be made in one piece by stamping or machining. Material can be titanium or steel, or anything else you want.
You have two surfaces contacting the bladestop; the first is a section of tang that lies flat against the handle, paralel to the edge; the second is a protrusion that's sticking out at 90 degrees and makes contact agaist the upper bolster or "tip" of the handle. This will serve to bleed out a lot of the force being transmitted to the pivot pin. The bladestop is inherently stronger than you could break by hand.
You'd have a hard time snapping a .25 inch pivot pin of good steel. And actualy, that pin could be made integral with the blade for greater strength and mitigating effects of breakage.
We're not discussing existing locks, we're discussing possibilities.
Anyway, a pivot pin needn't be thin, and a stop pin isn't the only way to do a blade stop. As I pointed out, many navajas have a bladestop that is integral to their handle, and the handle can easily be made in one piece by stamping or machining. Material can be titanium or steel, or anything else you want.
You have two surfaces contacting the bladestop; the first is a section of tang that lies flat against the handle, paralel to the edge; the second is a protrusion that's sticking out at 90 degrees and makes contact agaist the upper bolster or "tip" of the handle. This will serve to bleed out a lot of the force being transmitted to the pivot pin. The bladestop is inherently stronger than you could break by hand.
You'd have a hard time snapping a .25 inch pivot pin of good steel. And actualy, that pin could be made integral with the blade for greater strength and mitigating effects of breakage.