Folding knife steel.

Pm all the way. Proven blade over and over.
 
Taichung idk if thats tech china but certainly the best fit and finish of the spydie factories in my experience. There is a lot of great CTS XHP blades out there and many in that price range. You will be happy with one. THere are so many nice steels to choose from from if you get a PM2. half the fun is the internal debat trying to pick one.
 
I've found Elmax, CPM-154, 154CM, and Sandvik 14C28N all to be pretty tough and easy to sharpen and maintain. D2 is also very tough, but it can be difficult to sharpen, depending on what you are using. I've had good experiences with S30V and S35VN, but like D2, those can be a bit tougher to sharpen.

Most of my experience with Elmax, CPM-154, 154CM, and 14C28N are from Kershaw, ZT, Benchmade, and Emerson. The D2 blades are also mostly Kershaw, ZT, and Benchmade. S30V and S35VN adds Spyderco, CRK, and Buck to the mix.
 
What are you using to sharpen? How sharp can you get the 1095 you mentioned?
 
I'm using a cheap Norton's stone not 100% on which each side is in terms of grit. I've gotten decent at a few kitchen knives, my Izula isnt as food and a condor machete that I've gotten a decent working edge. I think a decent sharpening kit is in the future as well. As my free hand is sub par at best. I can't seem to get a good even edge on my Buck 110. I think I may invest in a strop and some honing compound to touch up my knives as I use them to try and limit my need to sharpen. As of right now I think the BM Griptilian in 154 CM is growing on me. Next time I'm in town I'll see if the outdoors store has one I can handle first. That's where I handled the PM2 and 940 Osborne.
 
I think it is fair to ask what do you plan on cutting with your knife so as to worry about the edge chipping. I can't picture chipping issues with any steel doing knife stuff. I don't think you will chip the aforementioned S30V while slicing carboard, food prepping, opening packages, whittling wood, carving pumpinks and such.Now, if you were to cut cabling, wire, etc... that's a whole different thing.

So again, what do you plan on doing with this knife?
 
I think it is fair to ask what do you plan on cutting with your knife so as to worry about the edge chipping. I can't picture chipping issues with any steel doing knife stuff. I don't think you will chip the aforementioned S30V while slicing carboard, food prepping, opening packages, whittling wood, carving pumpinks and such.Now, if you were to cut cabling, wire, etc... that's a whole different thing.

So again, what do you plan on doing with this knife?
I dont imagine cutting cable or wire with it. Mostly like.your everyday EDC tasks like you mentioned. Whittling on a hike, making a frog gig, cleaning catfish (they have armor like bones around head) but no batoning or shelter building. But if I'm whittling and I hit a small knot I don't want the blade to chip.
 
I like the PM2 but finding it in S35VN isn't easy. That new M4 version comes out tomorrow on BladeHQ. How is M4?
 
My vote for a steel that you can get on one of the aforementioned knives would be either 14C28N or the much under-appreciated CTS-XHP, that last one being an excellent EDC blade steel, like in the CS Broken Skull or Hold Out that I've used.

CAM01913_zpshktegyln.jpg
 
Also my lack of sharpening skills is a factor.

We where all there at one time, and some of us still are!!

Practice and partience.

If you have the extra $ for a grip in 20CV it's worth it (you also get G10 scales) and 20CV has excellent edge retention so you will not be sharpening as much as you would with 154 CM...
 
We where all there at one time, and some of us still are!!

Practice and partience.

If you have the extra $ for a grip in 20CV it's worth it (you also get G10 scales) and 20CV has excellent edge retention so you will not be sharpening as much as you would with 154 CM...

Yea I'm not sure if I'd just do that or maybe a Griptilian in 154 CM and use that extra cash for a better sharpening system. I'd probably strop or hone the knife after use to minimize the need to sharpen if I go for 154. One of my problems is if I buy something with a higher price tag I'm less likely to use it as much. Like I just used my Black Jack Halo Attack 13 yesterday really for the first time since I bought it. Although that is alot "prettier" than a Griptilian IMO so that could also factor in.
 
The Grip is a user.

The ergo's are excellent, and it does every task very well.
Use your knives man, you can't take em with you!!

Not sure if you've ever owned an axis lock before, but it's addictive fun...

154CM is a great steel, I have always enjoyed using it, and you will find it more than capable.

Using the extra $ to buy better sharpening equipment is a great idea. The importance of Being able to get an edge that works for you can't be understated.
 
The Grip is a user.

The ergo's are excellent, and it does every task very well.
Use your knives man, you can't take em with you!!

Not sure if you've ever owned an axis lock before, but it's addictive fun...

154CM is a great steel, I have always enjoyed using it, and you will find it more than capable.

Using the extra $ to buy better sharpening equipment is a great idea. The importance of Being able to get an edge that works for you can't be understated.

Yea very true. Also I really haven't had a need to use a 10.5 inch knife until yesterday. I think the Grip in 154 is what I'm gonna go with and maybe a Spyderco sharp maker?
 
I guess if I go with the Grip do I go with coated vs uncoated and 550 vs 551. Any advantage to having a sheep's foot vs modified drop point or vice versa?
 
I guess if I go with the Grip do I go with coated vs uncoated and 550 vs 551. Any advantage to having a sheep's foot vs modified drop point or vice versa?

sheep's foot is a all around more useful knife for most edc tasks YMMV. Drop points are very useful as well as a preferred shape if having that knife is a defensive tool, i wont get into the debate of knives for defense but penetrating is one task the drop point excels at. Most shy away from sheep's foot at first but after they get one they fall in love. The grip is a great choice, you will not be disappointed. Coated blades fade pretty quick on some knives but benchmade has a much longer lasting coating imho. I have a benchmade auto that must be 15 -25 years old that has barely worn out at all. photo bucket is not working for me lately but i will edit with my auto benchmade tonight if i can so you can see how well it has aged


 
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Nah my intended use isn't self defense. As with the theory of survival knives, self defense knives are whatever you have on hand at the time. The sheep's foot definitely intrigues me. I'll most likely go for coated for the extra protection. Is it a smooth coating or is it grainy?
 
I dont have any newer coated benchmades so others might know better. mine is smooth but still has more texture than a satin or other finish.
 
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