Folding knives that are thick behind the edge..........

Even most thin-stocked knives are too thick behind the edge from the factory, and part of this is because it's easier to leave them thicker at the edge from a manufacturing standpoint. By this I mean not that it's cheaper to grind them less because of less time in grinding, though that's technically true, too, but it also reduces the required precision in manufacturing. The thinner you grind the greater the risk that you'll mess up a piece beyond the point of salvage.
 
Most of tactical knives are made from stock that is too thick,plus very thick behind the edge.Those 2 combined on folding knife,do not cut very well.Depends what the user expects though.Flat grinds are very easy to regrind,and get desired geometry,its those combined,weird grinds that when you start thinning them out and grinding that turn out little weird sometimes.....
 
Cold Steel high hollow grinds cut real well from factory and are easy to sharpen......wish spyderco would do more high or full hollow grind knives.I havent seen full hollow grind on many factory blades, smaller folding knives are not made for abuse anyways.
 
I do not understand the purpose of folders that are way too thick behind the edge,and have to be fully reground to actually slice well and be easy to sharpen.Are these left thick to cut the cost?I got a ganzo knife ,decent steel,decent carbon fiber handle,but way too thick behind edge to actually slice like Im used to.Ps. I am getting Spyderco Endura in Zdp 189....no more cheap bs.

Tell me about it. At the bare minimum I've reprofiled all my factory knives to have edge bevels in the ~8-10 degree per side range with ~20 dps microbevels, and on many of them I've also thinned out the primary grinds. I got so tired of doing this by hand that I'm probably going to start sending my factory knives to someone to do it for me.

For example, my Spyderco HAP40 Endura with a thinned out primary (using a Norton Crystolon coarse) and an ~8-10 degree per side edge bevel:



For fixed blades I pretty much exclusively buy customs in order to get the kind of blade and edge geometries I prefer. You have no idea how happy it would make me if some folding knife manufacturers would start making some .100" or less spine blades that were ~0.015" or less behind the edge in some relatively high hardness (60+ HRC) steels.

Even most thin-stocked knives are too thick behind the edge from the factory, and part of this is because it's easier to leave them thicker at the edge from a manufacturing standpoint. By this I mean not that it's cheaper to grind them less because of less time in grinding, though that's technically true, too, but it also reduces the required precision in manufacturing. The thinner you grind the greater the risk that you'll mess up a piece beyond the point of salvage.

This is very true, even the FFG reground Mora I ordered from Baryonx still wasn't thin enough behind the edge for my taste, but thankfully I now have an American Mutt stone to speed up the process of thinning it out behind the edge even further!
 
Haha--yeah we can take the reground Moras thinner than we do, but presume that most folks will still be using them about as roughly as they were before, so even though we reduce the visual bevel width by something like 2/3 to 3/4 it could still go thinner for skilled users.
 
Spydiechef is pretty close. The blade is 0.105" thick with the edge thickness of 0.015". I like it and hope Spyderco makes more of the likes.


Miso
 
I would be curious what the foil thin knives are? It looks like that Benchmade Amicus in S90V and 0.090" thick blade stock is one of the thinner stock production knives with a carbide rich 'super' steel. I'm really liking these steels more and more if only for how easy they are to touch up and how sharp they get. Going back to more common steels is usually a pretty big disappointment.

How thick is the ZT 0452 behind the edge as I see it was mentioned. But since it has 0.16" thick stock and the blade looks about an inch tall with the grind about 3/4" tall (just eyeballing from pics) I can't imagine it's a thin knife like being discussed?

Just found that American Mutt Stone that was mentioned above. Looks interesting, especially at that price. Anyone know how it dishes with use? Is it fairly durable?
 
It's a pretty hard stone. Intended to be used with firm pressure for aggressive bevel-shaping or damage removal. Because of the finer grit in it alongside the coarse, it's more sensitive to surface conditioning after flattening than most stones, and to restore an aggressive surface to it I suggest roughing it using one of those "T" shaped diamond grinding wheel dressing tools, which have very large grains jutting off of them.
 
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