Food-grade oil for carbon steel?

Rhinoknives1 said:
yes, if you gulp down a tablespoon or more of it, rubbing the blade & a tiny drop of mineral in the pivot isn’t enough to blast loose from! :eek:.........also it’s a refined product from minerals. Not an organic, like Olives.... “ It was never alive” not Organic like Olives.... it will not turn rancid like Olive can....... any wooden cutting board maker will say, rub mineral oil on the board to restore luster & don’t use Olive....Glad you haven’t gotten sick from rancid olive oil! You don’t want to!
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Most of the time I"m using petroleum oils on my tool steel knives that I'm sure will do a lot worse for me than chunky olive oil.

I just put that out there as a good natural in a pinch oil you'll have at home.
 
Over the years I been here on BF, "Food Grade" Mineral Oil (located in the laxative section of your grocer and/or pharmacy) seems to be the most popular knife lube.

Olive Oil (not poopeye's ho has a figure like a pencil girl friend) allegedly can spoil/go rancid. Allegedly other food based oils, like corn oil, orange, coconut, etc., can also go rancid.

Personally, I don't worry about it. There shouldn't be/isn't enough oil of any kind left on the blade after you wipe the knife down, to make a difference.

Over the last 60 years, I've used 3 in One oil, used, and fresh transmission fluid and motor oil, fish oil, coconut oil, olive oil, (again, not Poopye and Brutis' girlfriend), various cooking oils, gun oil, WD-40, PB Blaster, and melted lard.

I use all my knives with food.

No health issues from using any of those oils yet. :D

For the last two consecutive years since my "mild" stroke, I've used that venerable "3 in One" sewing machine oil for lubing my knives, and when sharpening them, simply because that's what I have.
I reside at a assisted living facility, now. To get Mineral Oil, I need my doc to give me a prescription for it....even though I'd never consider drinking any of it. I keep forgetting to ask her for that prescription ....

(yes, the facility knows I have knives, a crossbow, (3) crossbow arrows/bolts, a arrow stop, 3.5 pound axe, several slingshots, a shepherd's sling ... I need more arrows/bolts ... and my compound bow for "exercise".
I can archery and slingshot in the back yard, so long as I don't target the "cute" (yet still yummy) raccoons that moved into the crawl space last fall, (the "ugly" hedgehog is "fair game" though) the staffettes, other residents, the neighbor's hamburger, steaks, and roasts on the hoof, and/or mules, or the facility's friendly furry kitty. :D
Supposedly after the state does their required inspection, I can have my compound bow and the arrows for it, guns and ammo here, too. No rush on the guns though. There is a rifle range just 1.8 miles each way from here. (Well with-in cycling distance.)
However, until Gov. Little rescinds his lock down order (currently set for December 31 ... 2021 ...) I can't leave the property unless to visit one of my way cute n' hot her docs, or visit the cute vampires for "blood work", without getting quarantined, thanks to that daRn Covid-19 Pan(ic)demic.. :( )
 
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I use olive oil on knives (and cutting boards) I am actually using consistently. I've never had a problem with rancid oils. But (as has been mentioned) I never use olive oil on anything that will be stored. It gets really gummy.

For storage I typically use Hoppes or Ballistol (non-gumming oils I typically have plenty of on hand). Then if I want to use the knife for food I just wash it.
 
Can one use mineral oil on wooden handled knives too? Most cutting boards are oak or bamboo but how about walnut?
 
Gilbert G said:
Can one use mineral oil on wooden handled knives too? Most cutting boards are oak or bamboo but how about walnut?
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You can use mineral oil on most wood handles, probably all in fact. The key is, just a light & very thin application once in a while is all you need. There's no need to soak them in it. Some woods can handle a heavier application (oak, for example), and some might eventually have issues with softening, if they're soaked or oiled ridiculously heavily.

I have an old walnut-covered Case electrician's pattern (12031L; 1974 vintage) on which I've used mineral oil to keep the walnut from getting too dry (I live the desert southwest of the USA). Ordinarily, when I oil the joints or when I've sharpened the blade on an oil stone, I just rub a little bit of the surplus oil on the walnut covers too, as I finish up. Haven't needed to do that more than a couple or three times a year. No need for anything more than that.
 
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Mineral oil is the right stuff!;) I bought this pint from a famous assemble-it-yourself furniture seller. It's intended for cutting boards. I keep a rod of nickle-silver pin-stock in it. When you pull it out, it carries enough oil to drop into the joints and to rub on the blade with your fingers. Maybe a little on your handles if they need it!! Quick and handy!!
It sits by my desk, and has lasted for years so far!! I knocked it over while photographing it, and due to its low level, :) spilled none!!
I smell nothing and taste nothing from its use!!:DOil 1.jpg Oil 2a.jpg
 
I'm a fan of non-aerosol Ballistol. It does a great job of preventing rust on my knives and other implements. The smell is an acquired taste but I like it. I don't think it's the very best lubricant or protectant, but it fills both roles well and is non-toxic.
 
dakota said:
I'm a fan of non-aerosol Ballistol. It does a great job of preventing rust on my knives and other implements. The smell is an acquired taste but I like it. I don't think it's the very best lubricant or protectant, but it fills both roles well and is non-toxic.
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For what it’s worth, I’m fairly certain that Ballistol is not food-safe/non-toxic. The label says “Eco-Friendly, Skin Safe, No Carginogens”, but it also says “Harmful or fatal if swallowed.”
 
waynorth said:
Mineral oil is the right stuff!;) I bought this pint from a famous assemble-it-yourself furniture seller. It's intended for cutting boards. I keep a rod of nickle-silver pin-stock in it. When you pull it out, it carries enough oil to drop into the joints and to rub on the blade with your fingers. Maybe a little on your handles if they need it!! Quick and handy!!
It sits by my desk, and has lasted for years so far!! I knocked it over while photographing it, and due to its low level, :) spilled none!!
I smell nothing and taste nothing from its use!!:DView attachment 1449641 View attachment 1449642
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" Good thinking Batman ".:thumbsup::D
 
nickvnlr said:
I'm surprised no one has brought up/suggested FrogLube.
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Suspect that Froglube is essentially Coconut Oil with scent and additions but it is completely food safe.

I find Coconut Oil very useful, works well on scale materials too for shine and moisturising.

Can't get Mineral Oil here except for Baby Oil and it reeks...it also seems to become sticky in the joints and can leave an 'arc' on the tangs. MO is probably a good cheap product but I'd advise against prolonged soaking of knives.

Disagree with those who condemn Olive Oil. It's been used for 3000 years or more in Europe:D Works well on handle materials too, notably woods. Not much of a rust protector maybe, and yes it WILL go rancid eventually...if you've got some horrible bottle that's been lurking in your kitchen in the sun for a few years :rolleyes: but if you use the oil a lot in cooking and it's fresh and you don't store a knife with it unused for a long time...What do you think the great chefs of Europe were using on their carbon knives in the past?

Some people have used synthetic motor oil on knives...can't believe that's food safe even if it's non petroleum:eek:

Here's a link about products that could be of interest

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/a-not-so-little-rust-prevention-test-round-2.1057567/
 
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