Footwear

shoe-goo works well for skaters and chuck taylors, but actually it works well on other shoes and comes in different strengths,i think ,or it did at one time. there's also an epoxy , one part, called e-6000 that might work as well but you'd have to read the back to see what it's not recommended for, some poly-whatevers, but you can find it in most hardware and crafty stores.
 
Received the Hoffman's yesterday. Really like them, although it's a bit early in the season I wore them anyway to see how they'd do. Very secure and won't be worried walking on hills. Hopefully they stand up fora long time. I'll post images when I get a chance.
 
Not sure if this is the 'proper' way to tie the tongue savers, but:
Hoffmans.JPG
 
What bottoms do your Schnee's have? On their website the bottoms look similar to the Hoffman's "Claw Lug". Another poster mentioned they grip well, any places you have to look out for apart from rocks? I got the calks, figured it was worth trying since they were nearly half price. They dug right into the rocks and muddy hills. May want to try rubber bottoms on another pair in the future since calks aren't the best to have in some situations.

Also, beneath where the leather attaches to the rubber there was something that looked like glue. I figure it may just be glue or sealant of some sort. Normal for boots like this?
 
Last edited:
I have the rubber bottoms like Hoffman 'Guide' winter pac boots. They have really good traction in mud, snow and dirt but they're tricky on wet rocks.

Edit: I just found the "claw lug" boots on Hoffman's site. Those look similar to what I have except yours have a separate heel. I suppose what's important is the material and it's hard to judge that from a photo.

FWIW, once broken in they get better for traction.
 
I do everything wrong ! I'm usually barefoot when splitting wood or using a chainsaw! I'd never ever recommend this!'I grew up doing it cuz I didn't really wear foot wear as I was flat foot and arches just killed me!'so it was sandles or nothing! This is compleatly unsafe but after so many years of doing it you get the hang of it and I feel way more sure footed this way.'once again do not try this its extreamly dangerous and plain dumb!
 
Chignecto Woodsman said:
Not sure if this is the 'proper' way to tie the tongue savers, but:
Hoffmans.JPG
Click to expand...

You can lace them in a row further back so the length of the kiltie(protector) is up further to protect the tongue up where it's bending and getting the most pressure from the laces. Hoffman's are a solid boot. I prefer wesco & danners in temps down to 0°. Wesco highliner no insulation to around freezing, Danner Canadiens (600 grams )in the cold. Good luck with your boots. You could also look into heated boot insoles from thermacare. They are pretty good stand & still hunting, but not if you humpin some miles.
 
I see on the Schnee's website they tie em up one or two. And other pictures I've seen tie them tight directly into the lacing. Too tight for me that way, but moving them up one is probably a good idea. Thanks.
 
My Schnee's came with the tongue savers laced onto the very bottom lace. I'd keep it low to protect the base of the tongue were wear would be the heaviest. Schnees sent me new tongue savers when I had my boots re-soled but I've never used the new ones - the old ones are still fine.

I picked up a new can of Huberds this weekend. It's time to re-grease my boots for a new winter.
 
I have a pair of lace up steel-to boots that I wear in the woods. Most days here on the farm I wear some version of a Muck boot or a knock-off. In the summer I wear the low top ones, winter I wear the actual boot length. They are nice and waterproof (till they crack open) you can patch them with wader/wetsuit patching kits for quite a while and the neoprene is warm without being too warm and very flexible for taking on and off. It also doesn't heat up in the sun as quickly and cook your feet like the old style irrigation boots do. I also like them without a lug sole so I'm not tracking mud everywhere. But if I were in the woods on trails they would be way to slippery. I have a velcro strap-on set of caulk soles for weeks in the (usually late) winter when there is ice everywhere.
 
Chignecto Woodsman said:
How many years do you get out of Filson double tine pants? Thinking about them but I have got 4-5 years out of carhartts.
Click to expand...

I have 4 pair of double tin pants. Two oil-finished and two dry-finish. Last time I looked Filson quit selling double tin dry finished pants. They last years. I only wear them in spring and fall. In winter I wear wool. Very brush resistant due to the fine tight weave of the cotton material. They have out-lasted the Carhartts I've bought. Some people don't like that you can't wash the oil-finished material. I wear a silk or polypro under layer with the oil-finished pants. They are expensive but I think they are worth the money. I have over fifteen years on my oldest pair and only some frayed hems so far.
 
I get a ton of life out of LL Bean hiking shoes. Own a pair of trail walking shoes....which are light and easy on the feet...and a pair of hiking shoes that help me stomp around quite well.
 
Chignecto Woodsman said:
How many years do you get out of Filson double tine pants? Thinking about them but I have got 4-5 years out of carhartts.
Click to expand...

I can't say, I've only had mine for about 6 months with only occasional wear. Like Halfaxe I wear a wicking layer under them for comfort.
 
Can Huberd's be used for the tin cloth. I read others suggesting to just use sno-seal on areas where the oil gets thin.

And is Huberd's ok on rubber? Kind of hard to avoid where the leather and rubber attach.
 
lazy otter said:
I do everything wrong ! I'm usually barefoot when splitting wood or using a chainsaw! I'd never ever recommend this!'I grew up doing it cuz I didn't really wear foot wear as I was flat foot and arches just killed me!'so it was sandles or nothing! This is compleatly unsafe but after so many years of doing it you get the hang of it and I feel way more sure footed this way.'once again do not try this its extreamly dangerous and plain dumb!
Click to expand...

I completely understand were you are coming from. I also went bare foot when I was young. I don't get along well with any footwear that does not have a flexible sole. I can wear Sorrel packs about a half size too big and drag my heals as I walk but have found that my feet sweat in them and then freeze.

In the summer months I wear high top Rebok's with flat soles. I don't think they have changed in twenty years. One of the few tennis shoes with completely flat soles. When it gets wet out I wear Cabela's Duck boots. I think they are about the same thing as LL Bean used to market as Main hunting shoes or boots. The down side to them is the soles are not very grippy in wet and ice. When it really gets deep and cold I go to the old army issue muckaluks. They are mostly canvas and just came in small, medium and large. Vey comfortable for me and my feet stay warmer because they breathe. They have a short life span.

I am jealous of you guys that can wear them Whites and other high quality footwear. At one time the gold standard here locally especially for loggers and buckaroos was the custom made Turner's.
 
Chignecto Woodsman said:
Can Huberd's be used for the tin cloth. I read others suggesting to just use sno-seal on areas where the oil gets thin.

And is Huberd's ok on rubber? Kind of hard to avoid where the leather and rubber attach.
Click to expand...

I think it would be too greasy on tin cloth. It would attract dirt.

I wipe it off the rubber and put a rubber preservative there. Then I hit the seams with liquid silicone seam sealer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top