For 70/30 or 80/20 grind I can't do that pre HT correct?

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Sep 21, 2013
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For a 6 inch chef or sandoku if I want to try out a 80/20 grind for a right handed user I can't grind it to a .015 edge and send it in to Peters correct?

The asymmetry would make it warp like crazy I would assume? So I should get both sides to like the "20" with plenty of thickness left on the edge and do the rest post HT?

Dumb question maybe but I wanted to make sure thanks!
 
If I was you, I'd get your answer straight from the horse's mouth and give Brad at Peters HT a call. He's a really nice guy and can without a doubt give you the best answer.
 
They have kept some pretty bazar stuff relatively straight for me. :thumbup:

They do some of their straightening during temper, so if it moves a little they can tweak it. They're a professional cutlery heat treat house, so this is their thing. :thumbup:
 
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I thought that you did the 70/30 thing when setting the edge? This is just me, but I don't grind bevels on a knife that thin before HT.
 
JDM...I thought the same thing. I thought the reference to a 30/70 or 80/20 has nothing to do with the bevels, but rather the final cutting edge. Instead of the traditional 50/50 edge. That is to say, instead of sharpening both sides at 15°, you would sharpen one side at, say 5°, and the other side at 20°, or whatever the case may be. But that may be totally wrong...I dunno.
 
Asymp grind describes the grind bevel, referencing to the edge centering relative to spine. Actually cutting bevel or micro bevel can be X/Y where X & Y different than grind bevel. A pre-ht grinded yanagiba would most likely warp when ht.
 
Looks like it can be both the primary or secondary bevel.

261dl4x.jpg


-Yes the spelling is wrong from whoever did it -
 
In answer to your question, grind the bulk metal removal pre-HT and do the final shaping and positioning of the bevels post-HT. You could do the grind close to the X0/X0 proportions, but leave the edge at .015-.020" (assuming the steel is stainless). After you get it back, just work up the grits and finish the bevels.

On high carbon steel, it is best to do most all the bevels post HT.
 
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