For anyone that dyes leather black.

[ColdDeadHand]

ok, on the topic of black dye:
Any tips for getting a stable surface once you're done? Does it ever quit dying your skin black?

 

[Omega Leather Works]

ok, on the topic of black dye:
Any tips for getting a stable surface once you're done? Does it ever quit dying your skin black?

It does but it takes work. Buff it until it wipes clean. This will often lead to disappointment because an otherwise great looking surface can show lightened areas once all the excess residue is gone, however, it's a necessary step for me. With black I use Fiebings Tan-Kote as a finish because it does a better job than my go-to wax in terms of rub off. Others do things differently and use different products, but this has worked for me. I don't have every product that others have.

The only truly fool proof leathers that I've used in terms of pure black are drum dyed (although the center is not dyed, only the outsides, there are other options) and vinegaroon which does "dye" through but has its own set of issues.

What kind of finish are you using?

 

[Cardinal Knife]

I'm apologizing right now for dragging this thread back up, but I'm still having problems. I don't do leather work often, so I don't do as much testing as I should. Omega I sent you a PM BTW, sorry about posting again in here, but I need to get some stuff ordered today before the wknd. I tried the navy blue dye base, then black, then wipe off black chaulky stuff, then second coat of black. Results the same (see pic below) with the black rubbing off.

I called Tandy looking for advice on if I should buy the pro oil dye or use something in the alcohol to slow down the dry time allowing the dye to set into the leather and the guy said he’s never heard of that before. He proceeded to ask if I was tried buffing it and I said yah that’s when the black comes off. He proceeded to tell me ”the black dye isn’t really a black dye, it’s more of a background color”. At this point I was starting to get a little annoyed, and told him that people dye belts, wallets, sheaths,.. black every day. Anyways, they were no help, and it’s about what I suspected. I am only dealing with Springfield from now on.

…Sooo here’s my question. I have re-read this thread and there are too many options to try. I can’t order all of this stuff, so I am starting off with the most common solution which seems to be the Black pro oil. How many of you guys strictly use the black pro oil dye alone without problems? Also, should I be applying neatsfoot to the leather first as avenue to allow the dye to penetrate, or should I keep applying it to dry leather.

If you use something other than pro oil dye, and feel like sharing your recipe please do so.

 

[Cardinal Knife]

I ordered Angelus pro black, and fiebings pro oil black from SLC. We'll see how it goes.

 

[harronek]

I gave up using Black because even though I achieved good results initially , it didn't take long for the finish to become marked and worn thin in areas that rub up against things .
I can achieve a very dark finish almost bordering on Black in some lights with dark Browns and Tans and they dont seem to have the same issues as the Black .
Good luck .

Ken

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I'm apologizing right now for dragging this thread back up, but I'm still having problems. I don't do leather work often, so I don't do as much testing as I should. Omega I sent you a PM BTW, sorry about posting again in here, but I need to get some stuff ordered today before the wknd. I tried the navy blue dye base, then black, then wipe off black chaulky stuff, then second coat of black. Results the same (see pic below) with the black rubbing off.

I called Tandy looking for advice on if I should buy the pro oil dye or use something in the alcohol to slow down the dry time allowing the dye to set into the leather and the guy said he’s never heard of that before. He proceeded to ask if I was tried buffing it and I said yah that’s when the black comes off. He proceeded to tell me ”the black dye isn’t really a black dye, it’s more of a background color”. At this point I was starting to get a little annoyed, and told him that people dye belts, wallets, sheaths,.. black every day. Anyways, they were no help, and it’s about what I suspected. I am only dealing with Springfield from now on.

…Sooo here’s my question. I have re-read this thread and there are too many options to try. I can’t order all of this stuff, so I am starting off with the most common solution which seems to be the Black pro oil. How many of you guys strictly use the black pro oil dye alone without problems? Also, should I be applying neatsfoot to the leather first as avenue to allow the dye to penetrate, or should I keep applying it to dry leather.

If you use something other than pro oil dye, and feel like sharing your recipe please do so.

View attachment 521520

Chris, I'm sorry I didn't get to you in time. I think you made some smart purchases though.

Mix a little of your neatsfoot (or a conditioner like 4 way, leather balm or other slow drying/penetrating product) in with the dye, apply the mixed dye to dry leather. I use these tiny little cups (with lids) from the dollar store, but I'll probably just mix it into the bottle from now on.

I wouldn't bother with Tandy in regards to dye, they sell a proprietary water based dye and very few other products. I've used their dye (eco-flo) with decent results, but crocking (dye transfer) has been an issue. I would stick with SLC, or ST Leather. ST has excellent prices but they are somewhat irritating to work with. I suggest emailing or faxing your order if you decide to try them.

Lastly, leather can have yuck on the surface. I use a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water on a paper towel and rub the leather down before dyeing. I regularly see brown crap on the towel afterward. Who knows where your leather has been, try cleaning it. May help.

 

[druid189]

I have no issues with the Tandy Pro oil dye...but I only use undyed, unprepped Veg tanned leather...

It's called an "Oak side," found here: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather/9020-07.aspx

I do put it on rather thick though, usually 3-4 coats - and I dye the panels on the inside once...even though I know there are sheath/holster-makers who do not do it. Since I seal the inside [also] with a home-brewed and beeswax-based compound...I've had no issues whatsoever with the leathers, tooling or knives that ride in them. [which reminds me, I have to make more]

 

[vilePossum]

Such a wealth of information, thanks everyone for bringing this back up. Mixing dye with the atom wax? I'll have to try this as soon as I stop coughing my lungs out.

 

[Cardinal Knife]

>omega, thanks for the info, were you talking about mixing the neatsfoot with my alcohol dye or should I wait for my oil dye s to come?
>druid, thanks for the comments. I did a test last night on a scrap piece and wetted it first with water which seemed to help. Do u guys ever use water pre dye? Right now I'm just going to wait for the oil dyes to arrive before proceeding. Sorry if there's typos doing this from my phone

 

[druid189]

>Vile. I have learned as much as the next guy. I like this site very much. I've never added anything to my dyes...but then again...I have my own way of doing things. Kind of like a "If it ain't broke...." mentality LOL.

> Cardinal. yes, I always dye on damp leather. When I say "damp" I really mean 'just' damp. I use a 2"W foam paint applicator because it doesn't hold a lot of water. I tamp it on the side of the container and then I dampen the leather as if I'm going to tool it [single stroke with the brush] and coat the entire piece as quickly as I can. I let the piece stand free or hang on string, wait about a half hour to 45 mins in a ~70* room with low humidity and then I apply the stain. with this method it seems to take the dye a lot better.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Such a wealth of information, thanks everyone for bringing this back up. Mixing dye with the atom wax? I'll have to try this as soon as I stop coughing my lungs out.

Yeah, try the atom wax.

>omega, thanks for the info, were you talking about mixing the neatsfoot with my alcohol dye or should I wait for my oil dye s to come?
>druid, thanks for the comments. I did a test last night on a scrap piece and wetted it first with water which seemed to help. Do u guys ever use water pre dye? Right now I'm just going to wait for the oil dyes to arrive before proceeding. Sorry if there's typos doing this from my phone

Try it on a scrap of the leather you will be using. I have a few different pieces of leather from different vendors and they all act a little differently from one another, but they all seem to respond well to the additional vehicle. Black is the only color that presents a consistent problem.

>Vile. I have learned as much as the next guy. I like this site very much. I've never added anything to my dyes...but then again...I have my own way of doing things. Kind of like a "If it ain't broke...." mentality LOL.

> Cardinal. yes, I always dye on damp leather. When I say "damp" I really mean 'just' damp. I use a 2"W foam paint applicator because it doesn't hold a lot of water. I tamp it on the side of the container and then I dampen the leather as if I'm going to tool it [single stroke with the brush] and coat the entire piece as quickly as I can. I let the piece stand free or hang on string, wait about a half hour to 45 mins in a ~70* room with low humidity and then I apply the stain. with this method it seems to take the dye a lot better.

I retract my earlier comment on Tandy (sort of). There's a rather large store here and they stock a whole wall of their dyes, but it does look like you can purchase Fiebings dyes from them online.

Pre-wetting has been a crap shoot for me. Some say it opens the pores in the leather. This may be 100% true (I have no idea), but if it's wet inconsistently it can pull dye in at different rates leading to splotchy coverage. At least that's how some of my leather reacts. Using a good applicator like you do is probably key. On the other hand, with dye other than black, I prefer blotchy to even, others like a perfectly even coverage.

>omega, thanks for the info, were you talking about mixing the neatsfoot with my alcohol dye or should I wait for my oil dye s to come?
>druid, thanks for the comments. I did a test last night on a scrap piece and wetted it first with water which seemed to help. Do u guys ever use water pre dye? Right now I'm just going to wait for the oil dyes to arrive before proceeding. Sorry if there's typos doing this from my phone

>Vile. I have learned as much as the next guy. I like this site very much. I've never added anything to my dyes...but then again...I have my own way of doing things. Kind of like a "If it ain't broke...." mentality LOL.

> Cardinal. yes, I always dye on damp leather. When I say "damp" I really mean 'just' damp. I use a 2"W foam paint applicator because it doesn't hold a lot of water. I tamp it on the side of the container and then I dampen the leather as if I'm going to tool it [single stroke with the brush] and coat the entire piece as quickly as I can. I let the piece stand free or hang on string, wait about a half hour to 45 mins in a ~70* room with low humidity and then I apply the stain. with this method it seems to take the dye a lot better.

 

[Cardinal Knife]

>Vile. I have learned as much as the next guy. I like this site very much. I've never added anything to my dyes...but then again...I have my own way of doing things. Kind of like a "If it ain't broke...." mentality LOL.

> Cardinal. yes, I always dye on damp leather. When I say "damp" I really mean 'just' damp. I use a 2"W foam paint applicator because it doesn't hold a lot of water. I tamp it on the side of the container and then I dampen the leather as if I'm going to tool it [single stroke with the brush] and coat the entire piece as quickly as I can. I let the piece stand free or hang on string, wait about a half hour to 45 mins in a ~70* room with low humidity and then I apply the stain. with this method it seems to take the dye a lot better.

Thanks druid!

 

[Cardinal Knife]

>omega, I was impatient and couldn't wait for the pro dye to show up, tried a little neatsfoot in with the dye and it seemed to have worked. Thanks for everyone help, learning alot.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

>omega, I was impatient and couldn't wait for the pro dye to show up, tried a little neatsfoot in with the dye and it seemed to have worked. Thanks for everyone help, learning alot.

That's awesome news.

Just to give credit where due, I picked up the idea from a SLC video. Everything about how to do it, and why it works can be found in their youtube video. I loves me some SLC. :thumbup: