for briangandrews and everone else, the wetterling side.

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Sep 24, 2006
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so first let me say I came to mostly the same conslusion as Brian, polished is awesome.:thumbup:

First off I wanted to get some shots of the edge going into the wood, now with this wood I couldnt get the axe to baton, it was too dry so I just gave it a wack into to the wood.
PA040066.jpg


Then a little bit harder, you can see the side of the eye are where this axe has alot of splitting power, one small whack can clean through a round of wood, the face geometry of the wetterlings works really well for splitting, and chopping.
PA040070.jpg


Here is just some quick chopping, this was after 4, moderate shops.
PA040073.jpg


Now some face and head shots.
PA040078.jpg

PA040082.jpg

And finally a handle shot.
PA040087.jpg



So, in short I havent tried a S&N nor a GB, but I've exactly what I want out of my wetterlings, it works amazingly.
Pick on up, I urge you too!

Heres a video as well showing how nice it works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCNDmo0DAEc
 
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Awesome post, you and Brian are gonna turn me into an axe freak! Hell, I guess I am a freak about most anything with a cutting edge!
 
Nice post, sometimes I think e get to picky and I like What you basically said,

This Works For Me.


Nice Stuff, Pat
 
Thanks Fonly. I will comment more in a few minutes. I think more people will watch the video if you do this:

[youtube]SCNDmo0DAEc[/youtube]

Be back in a few,
B
 
If you have a knife in the woods you can survive...if you have an ax in the woods you can live like a king!
 
You have a nice axe there, that is for sure.

The need to baton is really dictated by the wood. Some wood splits rather easy, and I would advise just splitting it. If you are having trouble getting deep penetration, that is when you should try the other technique. There is absolutely no reason for it here.

Now, please take the rest of my comments as just my observation. It is just that; my opinion and observation. I don't want to come off as negative.

First, I like the head geometry of that one better than the GB.

Next, you will have to remember that as Robin Wood pointed out in my thread, I am talking about VERY marginal increases in performance here. I might take the right situation to even make the performance difference noticeable. For example, if you did the work I am about to suggest, I don't think you would notice it in your particular situation. But here goes.

PA040078b.jpg


That area, right there is the circle still has quite a transition. In fact, you can see it by the vertical line. The good news is, that it wouldn't be too tough to work out. The curvature there is good, and not nearly as steep as the GB. Look at that line, and then compare it to this:

IMG_1718.jpg


Anyway, that is my nit-picky commentary :D I would not put that axe aside, but I don't think it would be my first choice either. But, like knives, kits and various other things, there is too much personal preference to have one person's opinion matter too much :D

I can tell you like your axes. If I got enough axe people seriously interested, you might be able to twist my arm into passing my modded one around.

B
 
Yeah, I agree %100, that is a friction area for sure. And another thing you're going to see with wetterligns is that they come in so many different shapes, it can get quite annoying. I know the first wetterlings I bought was nowhere near the fit and finish of this axe, the handle is much better fitted and the head its self is in much better shape over all.
But you know what, the head on this one still isn't perfect in fact it would take some time and energy to get a noticeable improvment. But, one night off Ill go at it.

Thanks for settin the video up as well.:thumbup:



Oh, and to sending the moded version around, DO IT!, but some of us axe freaks are in canada. So border crossing might hassle the movement of the axe.
 
Nice axe bro. I am really begining to develop an axe fetish.:rolleyes:

Thanks to Brian:p

Seriously though.....Are their variations in head geometry from the factory with all the makers of higher end axes? Who seems to have the least amount of variation? This wouldnt be an issue if I was able to hand pick one from a pile of various manufacturers. In other words, it appears that almost all of them will need some reprofiling to acheve max potential, but whose need the least shaping?

I remember Brian saying to me something about the head geometry on the axes from overseas being geared more twoards the native hardwoods of the area where the axe is produced, so would a US axe maker be the ticket, or is this just something that is just noticable with a few makers?
 
I would think the top makers are S&N, wetterlings, Gransfur Bruks and fiskars brand, they make the best easily avalible axe's for north american's.

Its hard to rate which is best, but I would think GB is the best out of box, no need to go sifting for the best one, same with fiskars, and same with S&N, but wetterlings is a diffrent ball game. If I wanted a GB style axe, but didnt want a GB, I would have pick a Wetterlings. But, if the style you want is an S&N, or Fiskars, they are some pretty good packages for a reasonable price.
 
I love my Wetterlings 16" axe! It's probably the best bang for the buck out there?

I also have an old tubular steel-handled Sears in the truck and a small Kershaw in my hunting gear box. Little axes are handy....

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
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