- Joined
- Nov 29, 2005
- Messages
- 475
Edit: I've come back and added more technique info for beginners. It's available elsewhere, but I thought to make this a more complete tutorial, I should add it.
I've noticed some new people to our forum, a few of which I recall being young, or on a budget. Anyone who wants to see how others are making knives on a budget should also check this out.
Keep in mind, I'm pretty new myself ...any experienced members here that see me doing something wrong, please tell me. However, I understand the basics of working with my chosen steel, 1095, and making decent little knives. My tools, with the exception of a drill press and a large rusty c-clamp my dad had, were bought new. I don't have an exact tally, but it probably could've been obtained for under $100. At the end I'll make a list.
I first draw out the knife.
I then transfer the design onto the steel, and cut it out as best as I can with a hacksaw. I don't get too close to lines, typically. Also, the hacksaw cuts in a straight line, so keep this in mind when planning your cuts.
With this particular knife, my design was wider than my steel bar was, so i had to forge the tang a little bit to make it curve down. Don't do this for your first knife. Pick something easy.
I clean up the profile with files. I usually like a medium to large size half-round file for profiling, but little gremlins stole mine, so I used an itty-bitty round file for the finger-grooves.
Profiling: I clamp the blade in a vice, horizontally in front of me. Re-clamp the blade often, so the blade is always clamped near where you are working. I find this makes the blade vibrate less and generally file easier. Use smooth, consistent strokes, and keep the files perpandicular the blade, to keep the edges nice and square.
After my profile is cleaned up, I go ahead and drill the holes for the pins in the tang. Drill slow, and use a lubricant if you like. A drill press is indispensable for this. In the $50 dollar knife shop, Wayne Goddard says you can use a regular drill, but I'd really save up and try to get an old drill press.
Now I start beveling.
Beveling: Clamp the blade down securely, in such a way that you can move the file freely around the blade. You're going to be at this for a while, keep something to drink nearby and cancel your gym membership.
I start beveling by first cutting the plunge, moving on from there. You want the plunge nice and neat. I use one of my leather pieces on the clamp here to help guide the file while doing the plunge cut. Be careful that you're not eating into the leather too much, though.. Use consistent, smooth strokes, letting the file do the work (firm but sort-of light pressure) One method I read about for keeping the bevel even on both sides, is to first file a very steep angled bevel (a crude edge, really) to begin with, and make sure it is even on both sides, then start the actual bevel, having marked the center. The curve from the straight-ish part of the blade to the tip is the hard part for me. I haven't yet got a real good method for it. I like to make a sweeping motion, filing the whole curve in each stroke.
Beveled. (Finally.)
A side-by-side of the drawing and my ready-to-heat-treat knife.
I will heat treat the knife tomorrow, and post those pictures when I'm done. I will get the handle portion of this up as soon as possible, but it might be a week or two until my order of supplies comes in.
I've noticed some new people to our forum, a few of which I recall being young, or on a budget. Anyone who wants to see how others are making knives on a budget should also check this out.
Keep in mind, I'm pretty new myself ...any experienced members here that see me doing something wrong, please tell me. However, I understand the basics of working with my chosen steel, 1095, and making decent little knives. My tools, with the exception of a drill press and a large rusty c-clamp my dad had, were bought new. I don't have an exact tally, but it probably could've been obtained for under $100. At the end I'll make a list.I first draw out the knife.
I then transfer the design onto the steel, and cut it out as best as I can with a hacksaw. I don't get too close to lines, typically. Also, the hacksaw cuts in a straight line, so keep this in mind when planning your cuts.
With this particular knife, my design was wider than my steel bar was, so i had to forge the tang a little bit to make it curve down. Don't do this for your first knife. Pick something easy.
I clean up the profile with files. I usually like a medium to large size half-round file for profiling, but little gremlins stole mine, so I used an itty-bitty round file for the finger-grooves.
Profiling: I clamp the blade in a vice, horizontally in front of me. Re-clamp the blade often, so the blade is always clamped near where you are working. I find this makes the blade vibrate less and generally file easier. Use smooth, consistent strokes, and keep the files perpandicular the blade, to keep the edges nice and square.
After my profile is cleaned up, I go ahead and drill the holes for the pins in the tang. Drill slow, and use a lubricant if you like. A drill press is indispensable for this. In the $50 dollar knife shop, Wayne Goddard says you can use a regular drill, but I'd really save up and try to get an old drill press.
Now I start beveling.
Beveling: Clamp the blade down securely, in such a way that you can move the file freely around the blade. You're going to be at this for a while, keep something to drink nearby and cancel your gym membership.
I start beveling by first cutting the plunge, moving on from there. You want the plunge nice and neat. I use one of my leather pieces on the clamp here to help guide the file while doing the plunge cut. Be careful that you're not eating into the leather too much, though.. Use consistent, smooth strokes, letting the file do the work (firm but sort-of light pressure) One method I read about for keeping the bevel even on both sides, is to first file a very steep angled bevel (a crude edge, really) to begin with, and make sure it is even on both sides, then start the actual bevel, having marked the center. The curve from the straight-ish part of the blade to the tip is the hard part for me. I haven't yet got a real good method for it. I like to make a sweeping motion, filing the whole curve in each stroke.
Beveled. (Finally.)
A side-by-side of the drawing and my ready-to-heat-treat knife.
I will heat treat the knife tomorrow, and post those pictures when I'm done. I will get the handle portion of this up as soon as possible, but it might be a week or two until my order of supplies comes in.
:thumbup: True, true!
)
