For those of you that hand sharpen

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ks_wayward_son

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Apr 15, 2021
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Do you sharpen along the whole length of the blade vertically in one single pass (i.e. tip to heel) or do you sharpen horizontally in increments? Or does it depend on the length/shape of the blade?
 
Most depends on how large the blade is vs. the size of the stone being used. On an 8" bench stone with most typical blades (folders to kitchen knives), a full, fluid pass from heel-to-tip is much easier and will leave a much more uniform scratch pattern on the bevels.

If the stone is pretty short or small, like a pocket stone, and the blade is a bit large (4" or more), then it might need abbreviated passes in 2 or 3 short segments of the edge (heel, belly, tip), to get it all.

As for direction, I make the pass with the blade oriented diagonally, maybe 30° - 45° to the long axis of the stone, essentially going between opposite corners of the stone. This is always the same, regardless of the stone size I'm using.
 
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It can depend on blade size, stone size, and blade shape but I would say for the most part I go from heel to tip in one solid movement while moving across the length of the stone. Again, if working with a pocket stone or something shorter than 6-8 inches in length than that will have to change with something as long as a chefs knife and then for that I will break it up into sections.
 
Generally whole length tip to heel with edge leading strokes. I will strop tip to heel edge following.

Subject to change if I have a damaged or problematic section.
 
Heel to tip. I wish I could do it like Shawn and Michael Christy, but I only allow myself to do that on a cheap paring knife.
 
I work on specific sections if I have to until I get a full length burr, then full length passes for uniformity until the burr is gone. I go heel to tip. Sometimes I strop starting from the tip.
 
45° angle (roughly) in increments when grinding, full sweep for microbevels if the entire edge fits on the stone - otherwise in increments as well.

A great learning tool for freehand is to sharpen a machete on an 8" bench stone.
 
It depends on what I am doing. If I'm trying to remove a lot of metal (reprofiling), I'll work in sections, either back and forth or in a circle. Once I am close to the final bevel, I use a slicing motion working from the ricasso to the tip. The only time the edge is trailing (other than when reprofiling) is if I am stropping on the stone or rod.
 
I do also work in sections when doing heavy grinding, as for rebevelling or major edge repair. Usually a back & forth scrubbing motion when doing that. If doing so on very small hones like a diamond 'credit card' hone, I'll work in a circlular or elliptical pattern, to take advantage of the width of the hone at least, if not it's length.

All of my finishing is done edge-leading, usually in full heel-to-tip passes, if the hone is big enough for that.
 
HeavyHanded said:
45° angle (roughly) in increments when grinding, full sweep for microbevels if the entire edge fits on the stone - otherwise in increments as well.

A great learning tool for freehand is to sharpen a machete on an 8" bench stone.
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On my machetes I tend to move the stone / hone rather than the machete. Like using a file, but with the option of cutting in both directions, toward the edge or away. On the shorter machetes, I can run the length of the blade, or do sections, depending on how much repair is required. But I end up blending with long strokes for the finish.

I definitely move the scythe stone and not the scythe. ☺️

(I'll practice more on the scrubbing technique, but so far I generally only use it on stuff I don't worry about...none of the "good stuff" (yet).)
 
Been doing this so long, decades, that it's automatic, had to think about it to answer this question. For kitchen and general use blades I use a sweeping, arcing, motion edge forward starting at the heel and progressing to the tip. For my straight edged carving knives, Scandinavian grind, I push the blade straight up the stone while sliding across the stone to get the whole blade in one sweep, no arc or angle. Stropping is usually heel to tip but I have a couple of curved blades that respond better tip to heel.
 
Single pass if possible, heel to point. The edge is always leading, except when stropping or using a butcher's steel.
 
For reprofiling and sharpening I use scrubbing motion. After I have a burr on both sides I shorten the time and pressure on each side with same motion a few times then finish with edge trailing tip to heel with slight/no pressure. Then strop

I think the important thing though is to find a way that allows you to be consistent with angles and pressure and use stones that are right for the job. Everyone I know who can sharpen does it slightly differently but end up with similar results

Edit: With axes and machetes I move the stone and do either circular motions or move along the edge. I normally hold the (smaller) stones for my folders.
 
CAP55 said:
For my straight edged carving knives, Scandinavian grind, I push the blade straight up the stone while sliding across the stone to get the whole blade in one sweep, no arc or angle.
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup::thumbsup:👌.
 
Thanks for the replies. I was actually going to ask when sharpening if you keep the blade in contact with the stone/hone the entire time (i.e. from heel to tip then tip to heel) or if you make a pass say from heel to tip and then pick up the blade and go heel to tip again, etc, etc. I guess the grinding action is meant more for reprofiling, or for re-edging very dull blades. The single passes are then for light/finishing/stropping work?
 
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