For those of you that hand sharpen

ks_wayward_son said:
Thanks for the replies. I was actually going to ask when sharpening if you keep the blade in contact with the stone/hone the entire time (i.e. from heel to tip then tip to heel) or if you make a pass say from heel to tip and then pick up the blade and go heel to tip again, etc, etc. I guess the grinding action is meant more for reprofiling, or for re-edging very dull blades. The single passes are then for light/finishing/stropping work?
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For me, anyway:

Grinding -> continuous contact on the stone in a scrubbing motion (back & forth, or circular/elliptical). Done at moderate-to-heavier pressure. It's mainly about speed of metal removal until the edge is fully apexed and a verifiable burr is present along the full length of the cutting edge.

Finishing -> Heel-to-tip edge-leading passes only, using a stroke, lift & replace technique. Done at MUCH LIGHTER pressure, while continually checking for burr removal and refinement/sharpness after every two or three passes on the stone. This is all about finesse and light touch, while avoiding going too far with either the number of passes or with the pressure used.
 
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This is the finishing touches on a Condor parang using scrubbing pass for grinding, more of a sweep for the microbevel.

 
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded I got a Condor Parang for Christmas. Searching for "Condor Parang sharpening" your video was one of the first results. At 2:50 into the video you say you are setting it up with about a 26° angle, with microbeveling about 32°. You're speaking of included angle I presume, not dps? How has that edge held up and do you use it on dried wood or greenwood only?
 
Being both lazy and way over-invested in abrasives, I usually profile and repair edges on power equipment. So my freehanding is mostly maintenance and touchup.

Heel to tip, edge leading on stones, edge trailing on a strop or steel. On recurved blades, I stroke the concave segment first (on stones with curved tops) and blend the straight or belly section into it after.

If I start my stroke at the tip, I have to end it very precisely on some knives to avoid bumping the ricasso up onto the stone (I find ricasso scratches annoying). Starting at the heel allows me to place the ricasso just off the stone and sharpen away from it. Doesn’t matter where the tip end of the stroke lands. Similar thing trailing on a strop or steel, although they don’t scratch.

Parker
 
I don't hand sharpen much anymore, but I tape off my knives with masking tape whether hand sharpening or using my Wicked Edge to help keep from scratching parts that I don't want to get scratched.
 
For me it depends on the shape of the blade. If it's mostly curved I'll do continuous strokes. If it's mostly straight, I'll generally do it in sections.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded I got a Condor Parang for Christmas. Searching for "Condor Parang sharpening" your video was one of the first results. At 2:50 into the video you say you are setting it up with about a 26° angle, with microbeveling about 32°. You're speaking of included angle I presume, not dps? How has that edge held up and do you use it on dried wood or greenwood only?
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Its held up fine for everything, even pounding seasoned American beech (although it was tough going on that wood!). For stuff that's greenish it works great, no chipping, rolling etc. I even thinned it behind the edge a little more from that video, no problems.
 
Mr.Wizard said:
HeavyHanded HeavyHanded Thank you. This is my first heavier machete and I don't want to overdo it on thinning. If you have time would you measure the thickness 1/8" and 1/4" back from the edge?
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I'm not sure I have any good way to accurately measure it. I will say it is ground to a very sleek convex - there is no discernible break point. Not an FFG but pretty thin compared to factory, I ground it down until all trace of the original slight hollow and overbuilt convex were gone. The edge took quite a pounding on a canoe trip in October and didn't need any work after.
 
Since I use diamond stick 99% of time
It's vertical but horizontal because I keep rod flat before me :^)
Heel to tip from the belly
My belly :^D
 
I do my best to keep the entire straight section of blade on the stone for the entire stroke. Keeping the ricasso pressed against the side of the stone

Then I sharpen from the tip to the belly pushing into the stone while turning my wrist. Then finish up with a couple passes from heel to tip.

view


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000Robert said:
I always sharpened horizontally from heel to tip.
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^^^^^This.

Large stones are your friend. Especially for large knives. If I have a large thick blade that is very unevenly ground, I will use my Tormek T4, depending on blade shape. I sometimes even use a file to get them in the ballpark. It really saves time sometimes, using a file on odd shaped blades or kukri style blades.
 
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