For you sharpening nuts - what angle edge on your double bevel bushcrafters?

[Dannyboy Leather]

Post expired.

 

[Gossman Knives]

A durable and proper convex edge gives me more room for error in many cases and I most often prefer this edge for use on my outdoor knives where things are sometimes less predictable (be they flat or full convex grinds).

This is exactly why I prefer the convex edge. IMO, is the easiest to maintain and resharpen without expensive sharpeners. Diamond sharpeners, yes can be alittle expensive but you buy one time and they will last a lifetime. I absolutely hate zero edges and scandi grinds, sorry guys. They are weak and unpredictable. Most end up with a micro bevel once they are resharpened.
Scott

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I don't want to turn this into a 'what edge is best' discussion.

If we need to have a knife to discuss because we simply cannot pick an angle here - lets use this one:

Blade Length: 3.983
Edge Length: 3.860
Blade Width at spine: 0.123
Blade Height at Ricosso: 1.013
Blade at Belly: 1.025
Handle Length 4.700
Handle Height at Palm Swell 1.053
Handle Length from guard to butt point: 4.136
Handle thickness at palm swell: 0.836
Blade Steel:1095
Handle Material: Cocobolo
Handle Pins and tube: Stainless Steel.
Grind: Flat, Double bevel, unfinished flats.

TF

 

[Gossman Knives]

Why don't you just sharpen it to fit your needs. Otherwise you will get a multitude of answers.
Scott

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I was hoping, that if I gave the parameters (used primarily for wood with perhaps some fish and meat prep) and a blade that I would see a pattern emerge.

A multitude of answers is great - but talking about different grinds, I think, is a different topic.


No umbrage, just trying to stay on topic.

TF

 

[Brian Andrews]

I am talking about a flat ground blade with a secondary bevel.


TF

I assume that you are talking about the angle of the secondary bevel?

If so, angle (and therefore geometry) directly effects how sharp the knife is. Think exact-o knife at one end of the spectrum and thick axe at the other end.

If that secondary bevel is 20 degrees, I call that "not very sharp." You might, but I don't, and that is my point. "Sharp" is on opinion, and what it seems most folks opinion of "sharp" is is not mine. That is okay. Nothing wrong with that. It is just confirming what I suspected all along.

I agree with Scott though. My favorite multi-purpose grind of all time is to have a flat primary grind, and then a convex secondary :thumbup: Of course other grinds suit different needs, and have their niche. But, you just can't beat that combo, IMO.

B

 

[Dannyboy Leather]

Post expired.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Again I don't necessarily think this is the place for it - but I think his convex, if sharp, would not cut because it was too thick of an edge.

I guess a definition is in order:

Sharp - a properly polished and balanced edge. Primary Bevel, in this case, is at what angle the flat grind is done at and Secondary Bevel is at what angle the sharp portion of the blade is.


I think we are all around the topic - and the question still stands.

On a knife (shown above) with a secondary bevel - what angle would YOU use given the stated use.

TF

 

[Gossman Knives]

I can't answer without looking and measuring the main grind behind the edge. Just behind the edge is as important as the actual edge. If it is too thick behind the edge, the angle will be steep no matter what you do. Without naming names, I handled and reworked edges on many different knives that where not grind down thin enough behind the edge.
Scott

 

[Shotgun]

I can't answer without looking and measuring the main grind behind the edge. Just behind the edge is as important as the actual edge. If it is too thick behind the edge, the angle will be steep no matter what you do. Without naming names, I handled and reworked edges on many different knives that where not grind down thin enough behind the edge.
Scott

+1 The reason I switched to customs from factory knives like Swamp Rat is they're generally too thick in that transition. When I do my 20 degree pass on my sharpmaker, it's the very edge. I guess you could say it's a micro bevel. I've noticed that for me, that transition area is the most noticeable factor on performance.

 

[tonym]

Honestly, I wouldn't know a 20 degree from a 30 degree.... I do how ever know I like my knives sharp!

Ask Nick of NWA knives what angle he puts on his 2ndary bevel, cause they are crazy sharp.

 

[Rotte]

To my mind, 'sharp' is getting two planes or surfaces to meet along a single point. Perfectly.

10 degrees or 90 degrees, it doesn't matter, sharp is two surfaces meeting at a single point. This ideal standard is not possible when sharpening a metal knife since metal crystals have dimension and thus foil our attempts to get said surfaces to meet at a single point, but damn if I don't try.

Having said that, on knives that have a secondary bevel, I like a more acute edge than one that is obtuse. But I don't measure these things. The acute edge may be more prone to rolling or chipping, but I can always resharpen the knife.

 

[PatriotDan]

I like 25 - 30 degree inclusive with my double bevel bushcraft type blades. Works well with bigger blades and smaller robust blades while giving acceptable overall performance.

One of my favourites, a custom RD from Justin Gingrich has a convexed double bevel with approx. 25 deg terminal, love that blade :thumbup:

 

[RescueRiley]

I like 15 degrees per side for a light duty belt knife or necker... For a dedicated survivial (processing wood, chopping, shelter construction heavy butchering etc) I like 20 per side... still sharp enough for some detail work but robust enough to take a beating.