Force Patina?

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Jun 17, 2010
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I was wondering what you guys use to patina your blades? i've got a bm d2 blade that i'd like to do this with but i'm not sure what to use or how long to soak it etc... thanks guys
 
Benchmades D2 won't take much of a patina if any in my experience. It will pit if left unchecked with salts on it.
 
lol yes. or lemon juice works too, but put on it and wipe it off? let it sit over night or for 24 hours? i guess i'm asking more about technique than medium used

Lemon juice for sure.
Let it soak completely covered, and periodically replace with new juice to get maximum effect (it seems to lose potency as the reaction goes on, hence the need for new juice).
Warning: it WILL stink up the house.
Rinse very well and oil thoroughly afterwards.
I've done 24 hour soaks at times, changing the juice every 4-6 hours. Worked great.:thumbup:
 
D2 is as close to a stainless as you can get, and doesn't take a patina well at all. It will dis-color a bit. Its even hard to get an acid etch on it(most won't try).
I don't even try on my D2 since I've never had any rust. To protect against rust is the only reason I will force a patina.

For a higher carbon steel I will force one since its very humid here.

I did this CV steel with an hour in an orange, then rince hot. then the same with an Apple, then a potatoe for about 30 min, and another hour in an orange. Got more color from the fruit, and all brownish from the potatoe.
Leaving one stuck in a cooked roast overnight will give you a good brownish patina as well(yep, found that one out by accident,lol).

IMG_3735.jpg
 
I've never done it to D2... but on one of my customs in O1, I soaked some paracord in vinegar and wrapped it to make a neat pattern. I'm guessing d2 will patina, but it would be hardly noticeable...
 
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You guys really get a patina on D2 tool steel?

I've never seen a good patina on D2 either. Most treat it as a stainless, since it almost is. Its about like the stainless ats-34 in regard to rusting.

I have seen some motted brownish colors in pics before, but never a D2 with a good solid patina.

Someone show us one:p
 
I agree with Ken.

SpartanSaint ... I'm not seeing much patina there.

This is patina on 1095 from chicken and pork.

IMG_4433.jpg
 
I agree with Ken.

SpartanSaint ... I'm not seeing much patina there.

That ain't nothing compared to what I got on the Spyderco Military foliage green G-10 model with D2 steel.
This pic was taken after handle change.
 

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I agree with Ken.

SpartanSaint ... I'm not seeing much patina there.

This is patina on 1095 from chicken and pork.

IMG_4433.jpg

lol i realize its not much of a patina, it JUST came out of the box, but it is darker than the 940, my pictures don't do it justice. but i want to force a patina, and am getting great ideas! thanks fellas. another thing, should i try to dissemble for soaking? or..
 
That ain't nothing compared to what I got on the Spyderco Military foliage green G-10 model with D2 steel.
This pic was taken after handle change.

So you dipped it in an acid solution up to the bolster (or removed the blade) and it didn't discolor the etching (graphics)?

I've used a lot of D2 and never had any patina in normal use.

I've never tried to force it .... I'd rather use them to do it than let it sit in a glass.
 
lol i realize its not much of a patina, it JUST came out of the box, but it is darker than the 940, my pictures don't do it justice. but i want to force a patina, and am getting great ideas! thanks fellas. another thing, should i try to dissemble for soaking? or..

True about your picture!:thumbup:
 
That ain't nothing compared to what I got on the Spyderco Military foliage green G-10 model with D2 steel.
This pic was taken after handle change.

I've seen some D2 get a little dark like that, but not quite as much as yours. I don't think you could get it much darker, or to show any colors.

I have one of those FG millies with CPM D2 I wonder if the CPM D2 is any differant in regards to staining than regular D2?
 
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