Forced patina competition finish

silverbullets

silverbullets

Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
3,282
I know INFI is not the best steel for patinas but since the CF blades tend to be more prone to rust I was wondering if they would take a good patina?
 
Good question. I tend to think not. Something about the carbon to chromium ratio. Or something. I'll try mustard now.
 
I have tried stripped, satin and CF with vinegar, mustard and tomato. No luck. The only thing I have seen etch INFI to any noticeable degree in my experience is poultry.
 
voracious1 said:
Good question. I tend to think not. Something about the carbon to chromium ratio. Or something. I'll try mustard now.
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Ok i warmed up the blade under hot tap water, dried it and applied some mustard to a small area.
Left it about a half hour and it took a slight blue patina. Very light, but visible.
So now i'm going to put it in a 200 degree oven for a little while and try it again.:)
 
voracious1 said:
Ok i warmed up the blade under hot tap water, dried it and applied some mustard to a small area.
Left it about a half hour and it took a slight blue patina. Very light, but visible.
So now i'm going to put it in a 200 degree oven for a little while and try it again.:)
Click to expand...

Awesome! I didn't even think of heat in the equation!
 
voracious1 said:
Ok i warmed up the blade under hot tap water, dried it and applied some mustard to a small area.
Left it about a half hour and it took a slight blue patina. Very light, but visible.
So now i'm going to put it in a 200 degree oven for a little while and try it again.:)
Click to expand...

can't wait to see the finished product, my thoughts were that yes I know INFI doesn't rush but if the CFs rust as easily as they do then why wouldn't they patina. Stupid question, did you remove handles before heating it up?
 
silverbullets said:
can't wait to see the finished product, my thoughts were that yes I know INFI doesn't rush but if the CFs rust as easily as they do then why wouldn't they patina. Stupid question, did you remove handles before heating it up?
Click to expand...

Your cf's rust? Nope didn't remove handles. Micarta can withstand crazy heat.
 
voracious1 said:
Your cf's rust? Nope didn't remove handles. Micarta can withstand crazy heat.
Click to expand...
no, I have never had a CF, I have one on order but I have seen a couple posts of members who got them and they rusted pretty badly so was thinking about trying a patina when mine arrives.
 
I believe those older cf rusted because of the carbinization left on the blade. My new cf bwm has a light bead blast finish which i'm assuming was used to decarb. It's already a user, so i expect to beat any patina off anyway. Btw i applied the mustard and put her back in the cooling oven, gotta pick up a friend at the hospital, back in about an hour with results.
 
The ones that rusted were the 2008 se. When Jerry did new C.F. he posted something to effect that they removed the decarb layer now to alleviate the problem if I recall. Sometime in 2010 or so when c.f. bwm s made KC
 
knife hunter said:
The ones that rusted were the 2008 se. When Jerry did new C.F. he posted something to effect that they removed the decarb layer now to alleviate the problem if I recall. Sometime in 2010 or so when c.f. bwm s made KC
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there was a thread within the past 2-3 months by a guy who got a new TGLB CF finish and it rusted pretty badly but I don't remember the circumstances
 
I blued a NMSFNO and it looked pretty cool :)
 
Occasionally a bit of the layer that causes the rust will make it out. On a comp finish, it is easily removed with scotch bright etc.



If I remember correctly, Coupchox (SP?), one of our Canadian friends posted a modded Sar Q that he applied gun blue to that looked great?
 
Just thinking but if the stripped NMSFNO took the blue then I would think the comp finish would take it even better. THe finish should be more porous than that of the convex ground NMSFNO- atleast in theory.:)
 
Ok took mustarded bwm out of the oven, washed it and there is a slight bluish patina showing, about ten percent of what i'd like to see. So im gonna bump the temp a little and do it again. Im takin pics will post later.
 
When I do forced patinas I always heat the blade. In the case of using vinegar for a consistant color, I heat the vinegar to just below boiling, and it certainly seems to work better. Never tried this on INFI, however.
 
I asked about this and Jerry replied directly to me that they (they is not Busse) have a new stainless bluing product for this kind of thing.

Maybe helpful.
 
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