Forced Patina on BF Knife (last year's)

2013-05-17115903_zpsbb497300.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
2013-05-17115924_zps569ccc9e.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Last edited:
jon_slider said:
gectrap_zpsca706ceb.jpg




That patina is a very nice and even grey. Especially on the wharncliffe blade. Is that because you don't cut anything with that blade? My users get very uneven patinas, that change constantly..
Click to expand...

I don't cut food with it, I use it for boxes, wood, rope things like that and when I'm done, a light wipe with oil cloth and back in the pocket, it does get some scratches on the scale side of each blade from the creek in my pockets but it gives exposed part almost a tumbled look.

I have a Case CV ABU that I won't in a giveaway here BBC last year this has a nice patina too although it has a gradient effect it is still pretty uniform in its patina. That one I do cut apples and other good with but the patina is so deep it has little affect on it as long I rinse it and dry it right away.
 
Last edited:
I'd scrub the blade with baking soda & water, to make a paste. The brown looks like it may be rust (to me), and as suggested earlier, the acid may still be working on the steel. Baking soda is slightly alkaline, and will neutralize the acid left. If it is rust, the baking soda usually does a good job scrubbing it off. The rust left after forcing a patina is usually pretty loosely bonded to the steel. Baking soda will take some of the darker patina away also, but the stuff that stays behind is what will be the most durable anyway.


David
 
akadave2 said:
I would Flitz that sucker and start over. The brown is active rust as far as I can tell. The steel should darken, get grey, not rusty brown.
Click to expand...

Obsessed with Edges said:
I'd scrub the blade with baking soda & water, to make a paste. The brown looks like it may be rust (to me), and as suggested earlier, the acid may still be working on the steel. Baking soda is slightly alkaline, and will neutralize the acid left. If it is rust, the baking soda usually does a good job scrubbing it off. The rust left after forcing a patina is usually pretty loosely bonded to the steel. Baking soda will take some of the darker patina away also, but the stuff that stays behind is what will be the most durable anyway.


David
Click to expand...

I agree with the gents. That is the wrong color for "patina". You look to have some red rust in there and not just black rust.

Either recommendation of the gents above is good, especially the baking soda.
Windex is good.
If you happen to have Bon Ami cleanser, you can use that. But ONLY Bon Ami. Do not use Comet or Ajax. Comet and Ajax contain chlorinated compounds. Bad juju if you are trying to fight rust.

If all else fails you can use toothpaste. Use the white paste kind, not one of the gel types. The white paste types are alkaline.

Steel is stable in alkaline environments = high pH.
Steel rusts quickly in acidic environments = Low pH
 
Wow, thanks for the helpful info guys. OK, I'll see what I can do and let y'all know if I mess it up. ;) Not tomorrow though...tomorrow is fishing day. :)

Seriously, thanks for all the great support.
 
Frank took quite a while to explain these chemical differences to me. I am going to try not to butcher a couple of the concepts.

I usually let a patina form naturally but I have done a couple forced. Its extremely easy.

First step CLEAN with acetone. This removes all oil/grease/contaminants.

Next step fill a plastic container with vinegar and heat it so its not scalding but hot.

Dip the blade for about 60 seconds and pull it out immediatly dip in oil or rinse under cold water.

If you pull it out and let the vinegar begin to dry you will notice colors and patterns form.

One thing Frank told me is the black rust comes from the lack of oxygen. Please, Frank, correct me if I am remembering wrong.

So, its important to let the vinegar do its job with the blade submerged and then get it off before exposure to oxygen.

This WILL give you a gun blue finish and it will be perfectly uniform.

The red and brown rust is not good.

I hope this may be off some help. If I was you I would polish that down and start back over. Then let the natural use set in all the patterns you can imagine.

Kevin
 
^ on Rick's steps if you avoid the cotton balls and go with the dip you don't have to polish to even it out.

Just trying to help.

Kevin
 
Right on. Thanks fellas. I think I'll go back and try again. Or just let it go au natural. But it's coming off.
 
Jon Slider,

I had that same problem when I tried to go dark and not just a quick even grey. The solution that I found was simple. Hot vinegar dip for about 60 seconds, removed buff dry with a clean rag. Do this over and over until its as dark as you want. It will come off with hard use but not just polish or a rag.

Kevin
 
richstag said:
Jon Slider,

I had that same problem when I tried to go dark and not just a quick even grey. The solution that I found was simple. Hot vinegar dip for about 60 seconds, removed buff dry with a clean rag. Do this over and over until its as dark as you want.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yes, repetition bears repeating :-)

If I was really serious about getting a black blade, I would use gun bluing. This one sitflyer did with bluing is really impressive to me:

IMG_4053_zps907d6208.jpg
 
It does look nice, but I just want to keep the red rust away. And I'm cheap. ;)
 
OK, I just re-forced the patina. Looks nice and grey now. HOT ACV. Did a mercator I had still shiny, too. Pretty cool. :thumbup:

I'll put up some pics when it's not dark.
 
Thanks guys. The hot Apple Cider Vinegar is the way to go if you're forcing it...at least for me...I've done it lots of ways, but this worked the best. A hearty thanks to everyone for the info and advice. :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top