Forced Patinas

M

Munky88

Joined
Jun 1, 2008
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I would like to force a patina on an O-1 knife. actually the one that Todd Combs made me for the Christmas exchange, so if you object speak now (still loving it).

I have been searching about for different ways to force it and found many, but haven't found any descriptions on what different effects each gives. I was looking for something even without many splotches, its already started to naturally blue in some parts which i like, but also has quite a few developing splotches.

so yes. anybody with suggestions would be great. if you have pictures I would love you even more.
 
a cold vinegar and lemon juice concentrate mix (50/50) puts a very nice dark gray on the blade just leave it in for 4-6 hours (tip down in a bottle or in a piece of pvc with 1 end capped works well.

Jason
 
Is it as a general rule the more acidic the darker the patina? and if so has anyone tried wine vinegar and salt?


Really like this one. Anyone know what it is?

3077166689_89993305e4.jpg
 
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When you are trying to patina a finished knife there are extra things to deal with that are not present on a bare blade (which is why you try to do the patina as the last step before handle mounting). The handle obviously can't be soaked in an acidic ,or any other type of solution. Besides ruining the handle material, the concern for acids getting under the guard and handle are a big concern for later corrosion problems.

First, if the joint of the blade with the guard/handle is not well sealed, do so with super glue to avoid any moisture or chemicals getting up under the handle.

Second, clean the blade completely and buff it with 4/0 steel wool, then clean again, and finally degrease the blade with acetone or denatured alcohol. Don't touch the metal once decreased, or the oil and acids from your skin will effect the patina.

Mustard can be used easily, as can most cold bluing compounds. Multiple cycles of clean//patina/neutralize/clean/repeat, until the patina is what you want, work much better than a single heavy and long etch.

When done dry the knife well, and set out in the open for ten minutes.Work in some light oil, letting it get into all the placed that any moisture might have gone. Set out for a couple hours. Wipe it down and give it a final oiling/coating with whatever you protect your blades with. Check the blade in a week and re-oil/coat as needed.
Stacy
 
I've only made a few knives thus far, with the very first having patinas applied. Here is a picture of one of the mustard patinas I applied (as per Wayne Goddard's $50.00 Knife Shop). Using finger dabs, cover entire blade with mustard, let 1rst coat stand for around 12 hours, rinse off with water lightly buff with the finest steel wool you can get (usually for me #0000, at Walmart) . Reapply subsequent coats, let stand for 4 to 6 hours in between these additional coats. I haven't tried it yet, but I think Wayne Goddard applies some Birchwood Casey's cold Blue after the final coat.

file:///Users/Bob/Pictures/IMG_0238.jpg
 
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I've used mustard to good effect. I think it's it best if you want a mottled, almost case-hardened look (apply it in small dabs or smears). Standing the blade tip-down in a glass of lemon juice or similar gives the most even coverage (open a window, it kinda stinks like a home-perm). Neither should brown the steel unless you leave it on way too long.

Casey's Cold Blue's main ingredient is selenium dioxide. It works quite well. Don't buy their degreaser, just use bladsmth's tips above.

The nice thing about this type of patina/blue is that if you don't like it, 0000 steel wool and a little elbow grease will remove it fairly quickly. So don't hesitate to experiment a little.
 
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