Foredom flex shaft for Buffing handles?

S

Scoli Forge

Knife maker in training
Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
73
I recently burned my dremel up and was considering replacing it with a Foredome TXH440. I like longer heavy duty shaft it has. I know they're very versatile, and have lots of plans for it. I searched around, but couldn't find if they could be used/recommended to buff handles after all the sanding is done. Basically my idea would be to lock the blade in the vice and work my way around the handle. I have very limited space so if I could use it for that purpose too it would be a big bonus for me. Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated.
 
Why not a dedicated buffing machine? They really don't take up that much space, and will be much more efficient.
 
I eventually plan on getting a dedicated buffer, but at this time I would get more use from the flexshaft. I was hoping to use the foredoom as a temporary solution in the short term.
 
Rotary tools don't have the contact surface area to do a good job polishing large items.
You really need a dedicated buffer-even a small one.
 
I find using a flex shaft for handles is good for the fine detailed places, like at the bolster or in finger grooves, but leaves an uneven finish if used for the whole handle.

If just buffing handles, the small and cheap hobby-jeweler buffers are fine. They usually have 3" to 4" wheels and 1/10-1/6HP motors.
Many are VS.

This is an example of one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-1-4-Dual-...080732?hash=item464c13dc5c:g:fdAAAOSwzrxUtqok
 
Thanks for the input guys.

Stacy: I wasn't sure if a buffer like that would be powerful enough. The only other thing besides handles would potentially be doing is restoring a couple straight razor blades, and that would be very rarely. Would these still have enough power to accomplish that, or at that point should I just step it up to a full size one at that point?
 
The advantage of using a low power buffer with a 3-4" wheel is it will not likely burn the wood or rip the knife from your hand. All you want for buffing a handle is to lightly buff the surface. Pressing hard isn't needed or desirable. Stabilized wood sanded to 1000 or higher grit will buff on a soft cotton buff and white compound in a few seconds. The harder non-stabilized woods will buff well, too. Soft non-stabilized woods do better with a finish worked into the surface by wet sanding with a drying oil ( Danish, Watco, Tung etc.). Once the oil is sanded in for several coats and then the excess is sanded off, let it cure for several days and then buff the wood with a clean buff and a very tiny amount of white or pink polish. Do not use green chrome polish on wood.

It won't work well on buffing a steel blade due to the low power.
 
Thanks for the detailed response. With what I'm primarily going to be using it for I think what you suggested will work perfectly. Thanks again.

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