Forge build questions

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
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I've watched a lot of vids and read a lot but, got a lot of different answers.
My main worry for when I get my burner in is how far inside of the chamber should the burner stick out, if any at all?
Also, I'm going to line the wool with satanite, ITC 100 goes over that correct?
Just trying to clear things up as I should be firing it up this weekend.
Thanks
 
my forge has burners from http://www.hybridburners.com/
Have you tried them for advice? or wherever you purchased your burners from.

I didn't build my forge but this is where the burners are from
it also looks like the burners on my forge are adjustable in depth, you may want to consider that feature.

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Nice setup. The burner I purchased (which should be here this week), will be adjustable as it will be held in with a pipe welded to the forge and set screws.
 
I usually recommend about 1/4" from the inside of the chamber. If the metal is sticking into the chamber, it will wear out the metal quicker. It will vary from forge to forge. Slide it in and out until it sounds best.
 
Another question I have, is for the kaowool, is that just rolled in there? Does it just stay there on its own? I'd be afraid of it collapsing at some point without anything holding it to the forge walls.
 
Atlas Knife Company said:
I usually recommend about 1/4" from the inside of the chamber. If the metal is sticking into the chamber, it will wear out the metal quicker. It will vary from forge to forge. Slide it in and out until it sounds best.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

While your online, I messaged you about the burner tube itself, and you said its 1/2". Is that the tube going into the forge? Is only 1/2"....
 
Sorry, can't remember which you ordered. 30K or 100? 30K uses 1/2" schedule 40, and the 100K uses 3/4" schedule 40. You will need a larger size tubing as a burner port.
 
Atlas Knife Company said:
Sorry, can't remember which you ordered. 30K or 100? 30K uses 1/2" schedule 40, and the 100K uses 3/4" schedule 40. You will need a larger size tubing as a burner port.
Click to expand...

I ordered the 100k. So ok thanks! I purchased some 1 1/8" ID tubing the other day for another project. Hopefully that's not too big.
 
Just to be clear,
The ins-wool/kaowool is just rolled in the chamber. You want one piece and a good fit, if possible. It is then coated with the satanite, which makes it have a hard coating. Some folks use "rigidizer" to make the wool firmer on large forge builds. On smaller forges, there is normally no need. Once the satanite is applied to about 1/4" thick, you cure it and then fire it. After that (and any patching of cracks) you coat with a thin layer of ITC-100 and fire again to cure the ITC.

The burners should extend into the refractory liner, but not out into the chamber. As Charles said, about 1/4" to 1/2" back from the chamber is good. When shaping and putting the satanite on the ports in the refractory, have them make a smooth bell shape that flairs into the chamber, instead of just straight channels with sharp edges at the chamber wall. The ports should be just a tad larger than the burner pipe. A waxed or greased wooden dowel held in the burner clamps is a good way to align and size the ports when making them. Smoothness of the surfaces is also important on the port and chamber walls junction area. Any turbulence created in the hot gasses as they enter the chamber will affect the sound and efficiency of the forge.

Once the forge is up and running, loosen the bolts on the burner clamps and slide the burner in and out a tad to "hear" the difference. It will sound smoother at the sweet spot.

If you use oversize pipe sleeves for your burner guides/clamps, make a sleeve of metal to keep the burner tube from being too wobbly. Another good idea is to pack the guide pipe with kaowool to make a tight seal and keep the burner snug.
 
Thanks Stacy & hsc, that helps a lot. I'll be putting my first coat of satanite on tonight after some turkey & fam time!

Another quick question. I'll be using a hard fire brick as a base and flux catcher, should I coat that with satanite too, or just leave it?
 
Put the satanite over the wool, and set the fire brick on/in the wet satanite. Use satanite to mortar the bricks smoothly up onto the sides.
 
Pretty much what the others have said. I use the same burner/blower set up for both my horizontal and vertical forge. There side by side and I simply swap from one to the other. My burner pipe is getting pretty rough since the forges have slightly different internal dia. and in the vertical it sticks out just a bit on one side. Luckily it's just black iron pipe and I can change it out easy enough when it gets too bad.

A small forge will work with nothing but ceramic wool, but it's not a good idea. You want something to keep the fibers from becoming airborne and you breathing them. The reason behind the satinite and ITC-100 is three part, one it increases the efficiency as it reflects more heat, two it helps prevents damage, either mechanical-bumping into it, or from flux-hot flux will eat through ceramic wool like water through cotton candy, three-this is a big one, keeps fibers from getting into the air and in your lungs.
 
So I'm nearly set to fire it up, and cure the first coat of satanite. My problem is, the quick disconnect hose and regulator does not fit on my 100lbs tank? I looked at both of my 20lbers and they seem to have threads for the quick disconnect, the 100lbs does not. Its just a brass fitting with a thick lip on the end. What do I need to hook this up?

I have a thread in connector that fits into the 100lbs tank, but then goes to a smaller male end, that doesn't fit any of the propane hoses I have. I need the regulator hooked up, so any tips would be great.
 
If the regulator fits the POL fitting on a 20# tank, it should fit the one on the 100# tank, as they should be the same. Shoot some close up photos of all the various parts.

I am not sure what you mean by the "Quick Connect" fitting to the tank If you mean the large pitch thread hand screw wheel type that is used on a BBQ, then you may need to change it to a standard POL male fitting. Did the regulator come from a BBQ or is it from Atlas?.
 
Ok here goes:

To start Stacy, I'm sorry I thought the large black turn knobs were considered the quick disconnects but, that is what I'm talking about.
Here is the 20lbs connector, which they fit fine.

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Here is my 100lbs connector, with no outside threads for that black spin wheel

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Here is a connector I found that WILL screw into the 100lbs tank, but has a very odd small male end on it.

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Remove the hand wheel fitting from the regulator and replace it with the POL one you have.
 
So this? I was thinking that but taking that off looks like it could be a job. Any tips?

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That would fix my problem as long as its the right size fitting which I think it is. Other thing is I would like to lengthen the hose. But no hose I have found will fit the threads on the burner.
 
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