Forge for wilderness tools

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Jul 27, 2006
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Fiddleback mentioned he has a forge to try out.
Just finished building a coal forge. This weekend will be the first firing of it. Hehe.

I've been looking at a simplistic coal/charcoal forge for heat treating and bending metal.

When we discuss gigs, spears, knifework and fabricating various metal objects for wilderness/survival use, I keep thinking how versatile a small forge might be.

Fiddleback, what kind did you make/get?

I've also been looking at the gas fired models, wouldn't be real difficult to build, but the parts do add up $$$$
 
When you get your raw steel, 5160, 1095 or what have you, how easy is it to work before tempering and heat treat? Chris
 
First I built a 1 brick forge. For small knives it worked for heat treating, but wasn't hot enough to really do much more. It took a LONG time ~15 minutes to get the blade to critical each time. So for forging it wasn't going to work.

So, after seeing a blacksmithing demo, and being totaly blown away by how fast it got the metal hot I decided to forgo a gas forge and get a coal/charcoal forge.

I used this plan: But I made mine a LOT smaller. They sell the natural charcoal at walmart, btw! And I've got maybe 25 bucks in it.

http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htm

forge1.jpg


forge2.JPG
 
When you get your raw steel, 5160, 1095 or what have you, how easy is it to work before tempering and heat treat? Chris

Work with? You talking grinding? Or are you talking hammering?

For grinding it is a function of how good your belts are. Hammering is dependant on how MASSIVE your anvil is. The more mass behind the hammer blow, the more hot metal forced to move.

Its not hard though. You're watching a knife be born. Once you sharpen it up and cut something with something you made yourself. WOW.

Hey Skunkworks, check out the garolite in your McMaster Carr catalog. Garolite is the industrial term for mikarta. They've got few types. I ordered a bunch of fiberglass tubes, and pins, and some of the same in garolite. Boy they look good on a knife.
 
Hay fiddleback thats the same forge I made, crazy man. I like mine alot, like you I didnt make it as big but it sure beats a grill and a blowdryer:D
 
Fiddleback!!! YOU DA MAN!!!
Holy cow, that is a nice set up!
I have a cement mixer too, you got me thinking about some major trouble, now!


Chris, good Q. when you get the high carbon steel it's annealled, it's not real bad, but, it's also NOT like working mild steel either. Much stronger/tougher than mild steel.

If I put that 1/4" 5160 in a vise, and put a 3 foot piece of pipe on it, I'd be lucky to bend it an inch or two. Mild steel you could proably bend to a 90° no problemo.

So, that's why I think being able to heat to forge temps would be helpful.
For a simple quick bend, you could torch the piece, but a forge would give a lot more control for making things like sockets and such.


Fiddleback, man you gotta post pics with that beast in action...
Make a socketed speartip!
 
Grinding, I am quite sure I am not ready for the forge just yet. Chris

Skunk mentioned the other day that its easier to grind annealed steel. That is certainly true. Its not hard Chris. I hog off steel with a 6" bench grinder, then switch to my cheap old 1x42" belt grinder to finish it up. I've also got a big industrial blet disc thing I rebuilt, but it gets less and less use of late. Maybe if I need to flatten sides.

Good belts, Zircona Alumina rather than Aluminum Oxide, cost more, but work faster longer cooler.
 
garolite! Cool, got it, i'll check it.
Will probably use some on the 1095 knife I just started.

The handle looks dorky, but it really feels good "in hand".
WoodsKnife1.jpg
 
Fiddleback!!! YOU DA MAN!!!
Holy cow, that is a nice set up!
I have a cement mixer too, you got me thinking about some major trouble, now!


Chris, good Q. when you get the high carbon steel it's annealled, it's not real bad, but, it's also NOT like working mild steel either. Much stronger/tougher than mild steel.

If I put that 1/4" 5160 in a vise, and put a 3 foot piece of pipe on it, I'd be lucky to bend it an inch or two. Mild steel you could proably bend to a 90° no problemo.

So, that's why I think being able to heat to forge temps would be helpful.
For a simple quick bend, you could torch the piece, but a forge would give a lot more control for making things like sockets and such.


Fiddleback, man you gotta post pics with that beast in action...
Make a socketed speartip!

Mine is substantially smaller than that one. And I'm probably going to use my yard blower in it too. But a coal forge gets the metal hot FAST. Thats what I was going for.

Its a good easy cheap plan to follow. Did you check out the rest of that guys site??? Good stuff on forging blades.
 
A great way to start is to simply mod some Old Hickory knives. They're 1095, btw.
 
garolite! Cool, got it, i'll check it.
Will probably use some on the 1095 knife I just started.

The handle looks dorky, but it really feels good "in hand".
WoodsKnife1.jpg

Man, thats sweet. I'm having a lot of fun posting with you over here Skunk! Two beginners in one spot. Sweet.
 
Skunk mentioned the other day that its easier to grind annealed steel. That is certainly true. Its not hard Chris. I hog off steel with a 6" bench grinder, then switch to my cheap old 1x42" belt grinder to finish it up. I've also got a big industrial blet disc thing I rebuilt, but it gets less and less use of late. Maybe if I need to flatten sides.

Good belts, Zircona Alumina rather than Aluminum Oxide, cost more, but work faster longer cooler.

I even use an angle grinder first for serious hogging, then go to the 8" bench grinder, then to belt grinder. I need to get some of those Zircona Alumina belts!

I need, I need I need...... right to the poor farm.
 
Man, thats sweet. I'm having a lot of fun posting with you over here Skunk! Two beginners in one spot. Sweet.

Man, the Wilderness/Survival guys are gonna boot us out over to the Beginner Knifemaking Forums. ;)

I like that design. I was going to use a compressed air hook-up, with a needle valve to meter the air, and a simple ball valve to turn on and off.

Did you use "plain old" cement?
 
Man, the Wilderness/Survival guys are gonna boot us out over to the Beginner Knifemaking Forums. ;)

I like that design. I was going to use a compressed air hook-up, with a needle valve to meter the air, and a simple ball valve to turn on and off.

Did you use "plain old" cement?

I used two quarts of fireplace mortar laid over some kaowool. I've got extra kaowool if you need.
 
nice set up there andy... :thumbup: i like it.....

i have the railroad track chunck already, now i need to get a simple forge going..... :D i've been seeing all these different styles online.....
 
I used two quarts of fireplace mortar laid over some kaowool. I've got extra kaowool if you need.

Yes, I will actually need some kaowool! How much do you have?
Is it worth shipping?

Email me at: johnlingan (at) verizon.net and maybe we can work something out. I'm only finding it in big rolls.
 
Hey Fiddleback...

Great outfit. I'd not thought of a setup quite like that. About 20 years ago, my dad and I made a small forge out of a wheel rim. We bent a 3" pipe that ran up into the wheel rim (the rim was on 3 legs). We would then put a blower similar to yours at the end of the pipe and force air into the coals. Only difference -- our blower was electric. I forged a few knives...unfortunately, I don't even know where they are now. My dad still has the "forge." This thread may inspire me to get it going again.

Thanks for the pics and info everyone. Skunkwerx great thread you started.
:)
 
Yes, I will actually need some kaowool! How much do you have?
Is it worth shipping?

Email me at: johnlingan (at) verizon.net and maybe we can work something out. I'm only finding it in big rolls.

I've got a big roll, and only needed a little. Lemme know how much you need. No charge. E-mail me your snail mail addy and I'll send you half the roll.
 
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