Forge fuel efficiency

Atlas Knife Company said:
A 30K BTU Atlas runs about 14 hours on a 20lb. tank. I've spent years trying to make it the most efficient forge possible. It has almost no flame coming out of the front, but the infrared heat coming out will warm up your hand quickly.

I agree with Stacy that you are way overthinking this.
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14 hours? That sounds good. What is an atlas forge? Do you have a webpage with more info on this forge? Also, does anyone here have any experience with ribbon burners? I have heard that they are more efficient and heat more evenly as well? Any idea of the efficiency of these burners?

Thanks for the advice. You guys are right, i'll try not to overthink it.
 
@Atlas knife company

Is this an atlas forge that you referred to? (see link below) If so what makes it so efficient? Is it the small size, or the burner?

I should add that I'm not only looking to forge knives but many other things too. I guess I'm more into blacksmithing than bladesmithing. My interest in blades is mostly for tools. I plan to make hatchets, chisels and other woodworking tools, but also I want to forge decorative items such as rustic style lighting fixtures and other such things. I have no idea where this hobby will take me. Perhaps i'll end up being a bladesmithh in the end. Maybe i'll find a way to earn money with it. For now though, I'm wanting to forge all sorts of things. I do need a versatile forge.

I saw a forge online which the maker calls the super C forge. Its like a bladesmiths forge but it has an opening on the side so you can fit odd shapes into it, such as scrolls and such, I assume.

The reason I ask about your atlas forge burner is that if its the reason your forge is so efficient then maybe i'll use that burner with the super C style forge. I don't know, I'm looking for direction right now, and I'm not sure where i'll end up. I know, don't over think it. I'll remember that as well.


http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-maki...ssories-tools-c-172-173/atlas-mini-forge.html
 
@atlas knife company. Forgive me, I must ask yet another question. This forge seems to have an insulating firebrick lining, Is this true? If so I like the idea of it, especially if its efficient. The durability seems good. I could see myself trashing wool insulation on accident, so I would love to use something more durable without compromising the efficiency.
 
Poorestboy,
You are starting to jump from thing to thing. To get your feet wet, just build a standard tunnel forge from a piece of 7-8" pipe or similar object. About 12-16" long is a good starter size. Once you have learned how to use it, you can build all sorts of special burners and forge types.

The Atlas burners are a good way to get a working burner. They are nearly as cheap as you can build one yourself.

Ribbon burners are efficient on large forges, but not really for low budget and inexperienced makers.

There are hundreds of forge types, and all have their uses. Ins-wool lined with satanite is probably the cheapest and most durable. It is also very efficient.

You can make a side door for the forge that flips up for larger smithing and farrier work. Look at photos of some of the North Carolina Tool company's "Whisper" forges for how that works.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Poorestboy,
You are starting to jump from thing to thing. To get your feet wet, just build a standard tunnel forge from a piece of 7-8" pipe or similar object. About 12-16" long is a good starter size. Once you have learned how to use it, you can build all sorts of special burners and forge types.

The Atlas burners are a good way to get a working burner. They are nearly as cheap as you can build one yourself.

Ribbon burners are efficient on large forges, but not really for low budget and inexperienced makers.

There are hundreds of forge types, and all have their uses. Ins-wool lined with satanite is probably the cheapest and most durable. It is also very efficient.

You can make a side door for the forge that flips up for larger smithing and farrier work. Look at photos of some of the North Carolina Tool company's "Whisper" forges for how that works.
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Thanks Stacey. I did build a small gas forge already, but it was not nearly as efficient as the Atlas forge. I was taken by the efficiency which the small atlas forge had. My forge was small too but it burned through 20lb of propane in much less time. You are correct, I do tend to get into multiple things at a time, and that's probably not a good thing. Thanks for the advice on the forge design.
 
Building a home brew forge with abode insulation isn't going to compare with making a proper forge. Use Ins-wool and satanite. Make it right and it will be surprisingly efficient.
A properly built 16" long forge made from a piece of 7" pipe will be sufficient to forge anything from a kiridashi to a sword. It will work for HT as well.
 
It's the forge design that affects efficiency the most. An efficient forge has very little flame coming out of the front, and is not much bigger than what you are forging. When you start talking about blacksmithing ornamental items, you start to leave the propane realm and head back into solid-fuel. With solid fuel and an open forge, you can stick the corner of something in the heat. You can't really do that with propane.
 
Actually, many metal working schools and shops do exactly that with propane. They use a tunnel or "U" forge. It is open on one side and both ends. Fire brick can be used to close off any part desired. Other blacksmith/metalwork forges have a top plate with 1/2/3 burners and a bottom plate. Both plates are usually hard firebrick. The forge is open on all sides and the work is placed between them. Some even allow the bottom plate to be raised/lowered to accommodate different size objects.

A large flame propane/air or propane /oxygen torch is also a great thing to have in the shop. A presto-lite set can be found at yard sales for next to nothing. A B bottle of acetylene for it will last along time in most shops. Years ago I had a 100 pound MAPP gas tank and a big heating torch head on a 20 foot hose that I bought from an estate sale for $50. The tank was full. I used it for years, and finally gave it to a friend for his auto repair/body shop. I don't know if he ever drained the tank.

Here is a link to a photo of one type of "U" forge:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d1bb7e50e32c77a174bd14o0&mode=overlay&first=1
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Building a home brew forge with abode insulation isn't going to compare with making a proper forge. Use Ins-wool and satanite. Make it right and it will be surprisingly efficient.
A properly built 16" long forge made from a piece of 7" pipe will be sufficient to forge anything from a kiridashi to a sword. It will work for HT as well.
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I agree.
 
Atlas Knife Company said:
It's the forge design that affects efficiency the most. An efficient forge has very little flame coming out of the front, and is not much bigger than what you are forging. When you start talking about blacksmithing ornamental items, you start to leave the propane realm and head back into solid-fuel. With solid fuel and an open forge, you can stick the corner of something in the heat. You can't really do that with propane.
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You can use propane for ornamental work if you have a side door like Stacy suggested. I know what you mean though, that solid fuel is better suited for that purpose but I'm really trying to go all propane because of where I forge. I thank you for your suggestions on the small size and what you say about not having excessive flames shooting out the door. How small can I make the forge openings? Is there a burner that is better suited for very small forge openings? Or are they all pretty much the same?
 
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