Forge info questions?

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Dixieblade57

Joined
Jun 20, 2007
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This is my propane forge I have it welded up and am working on the inside now. It is made of a 10 " pipe and is 22" in length. This will leave a finished chamber of 6" x 18" after the blanket. I had origionaly posted pics a while back while it was still in the welding stage. That is when Ed Cafferty noticed I had problems with the burners angle. So with his help this is the redesigned version.

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I am thinking of using Inswool HP Blanket 1" thickness, two layers and coated with ITC 100 HT inside of my forge. I will be using fire brick splits on the bottom of the forge. What is your opinion of this combination?

Since I will be using the splits, do I need to let one layer of the Inswool run under the brick?

Do I need to coat both layers of the Inswool or just the inner one that will be exposed to the heat?

Any information on these questions will be greatly appreciated, as I would prefer to do this right the first time out.
 
Can anyone out there give me an answer on the Inswool HP Blanket?

Is this a good material for a forge or not?

I have a chance to buy some but need to know about the product pro's and con's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed Cafferty,........ anyone that knows.
Hello out there, I can hear you breathing I know someone's out there! HELP
 
I believe Darren Ellis sells Inswool, but that's all I know about it (and I may even be remembering wrongly, please verify this.) He may have info on his site about the different types and their individual properties.
 
OK this is what I have been able to find out.

INSWOOL HP BLANKET #6 is a low iron, high purity ceramic fiber blanket developed especially for use in highly reducing atmospheres.
Lightweight, flexible and suitable for operating temperatures to 2400°F.
Retains a soft fibrous structure right up to its maximum usage temperature, and even the most extreme temperature changes will not affect its ability to insulate and stay in place.
Developed to meet the demand for a high temperature, flexible blanket insulation with a low iron content of less than 1%.
Remains in place on the furnace anchors even at high temperatures and can resist damage even when subjected to normal mistreatment in shipment and handling.
High purity blanket made from a 50/50 blend of Alumina and Silica. Suitable for hot or cold applications.

However I have nothing to compare it against!

Is this the same thing as Durablanket® S ceramic blanket?

Inswool Vs Durablanked is that just one brand name verses another or is there really a difference?
 
I used two layers of the one inch stuff that Ellis sells. Then coated it withe satinite.
Seems to be doing OK.
That pink dude is freaking me out.
 
If you're going atmospheric you might be alright on the inswool. My forges are blown, and I burn the stuff up in about 6 months. I 'm going to get my ceramic kiln working soon so I can do poured refractory and harden it correctly

-Page
 
another guy to check out is larry zoeller all you have to do is google him. he sells burners and other forge supplies and he is good for asking questions

good luck

jake
 
I second Larry Zoeller as a recommendation, also try and go to anvilfire.com as they sell Kaowool, firebrick, and have articles about forge construction or you could ask the Guru.
 
If i were doing it, i would use the two layers of inswool, then a thin coat of satanite and leave out the firebrick. If you going to do any welding, use a coat of bubble alumina on the bottom. What was your purpose for using the firebrick? I would not want to sit the blades flat on the brick inside the forge. Your forge looks good and will work great with just the inswool and satanite.
 
are you saying its bad to protect your forge floor with fire brick? and does having the blade sit on the brick hurt the blade?

thanks

jake
 
Guys I know what Zoeller has for sale, it is the durablanket.

Iam trying desperatley to find out if Inwool is an equal to the Durablaket Zoeller has for sale?

I have a chance to buy some inswool but have to buy now it's cheaper than I can buy the Durablaket for that is why I am trying to find out something definate about the two products.

Can anyone address the compariablity of the two products?????????????
 
I think the Inswool is 6lb. and the Durablanket is 8lb. Is the cost of the Inswool 3/4 of the cost of the Durablanket?

The two are basically the same material. More weight per inch insulates better.

Larry Zoeller's Plistex 900 is quite a bit cheaper than ITC-100. They do the same thing... glue the fibers in place so you don't breath them and reflect heat.

Mike
 
My recommendation it to use #8 density, which ever brand of ceramic fiber blanket you choose to use. I would also advise to use only 1 layer of 1" thick material. All of the ceramic fiber blankets are designed/engineered in such a way that they absorb a specific amount of heat, THEN reflect heat. Doubling up on 1" thick material actually take more time, and more fuel to achieve a specific temp than a single layer, and more fuel to maintain it. I know that sounds contradictory to common thinking, but its true. (I've done a number of experiments that have proven so)

The ITC is a good idea. In my forges ITC-100 produces approx. 500F more heat, and reduces fuel consumption. It only needs to be applied very lightly....mix it with water to about the consistency of latex paint. Spritz the inside of the forge with water from a spray bottle, and "paint" it on with a paint brush. Let it FULLY DRY before you fire the forge and your set.

All the pics look good to me....you MIGHT have to block off a bit of the forge's front opening, it appears pretty large, but that OK....you'll have the room in case you need to get something large into it.

Let us know how things go!
 
Clifton - I got your email.

I suggest 2" wool for large forges that will be used for welding, but 1" is plenty for general forging. I don't think there would be any problem in a forge with two layers of 1" wool. The 2" Hi-Z stuff that Darren Ellis sells is superb, BTW.

The wool you are considering is fine. I recommend a 1/4" coating of Satanite ,allowing this to cure and firing it briefly, then coating that with a layer of ITC-100.

Atmospheric burners will work well with your forge, but, sooner of later, you will probably want to convert it to blown burners.

The fire brick floor liners just sit on the existing floor. The forge should be complete without them. They are just a replaceable floor covering. If you are doing welding in the forge , cover the bottom ( and about 2" up the sides) with bubble alumina, or the flux will eat right through the floor fairly quickly. The fire brick floor liner works well here ,too.

Go to Darren Ellis' site and read all the FAQs. The entire procedure of lining a forge is well explained, as is the use and advantages of most of his supplies offered. He sells burners and burner kits,too.

Let me know if you need more info ,or help.

Stacy
 
Stacy,
I emailed a few folks who I figured might me in the know on this subject. Some of them like you didn't even know me but, there is a great sense of commeradity to get a reply and an indepth answer to my questions.
I do appreciate the reply. Please call me Cliff, as my mother was the only one that called me by my given name, and I usually think I am in some kind of trouble when hear Clifton. :D :D Like always though the guys on the forum have stepped up and helped when called upon for information !

I am going to suggest something here. Why don't we have a forum dedicated to Forges and the use and construction of them, with stickys at the top by several of the guys in the know!
It might help to be able discuss different types of forges and there assets and liability's. Trying to get answers to these questions has been real hard. I have also discovered there is as much of a lack of information as there is misinformation out there!
Most everyone that's not doing reduction has a forge that they are using and I know some of you have developed a real keen sense of how things are supposed to work and what doesn't work!
 
You probably already read this, By Kevin Cashen
http://www.cashenblades.com/Info/Gas forges.html
I'm working on my 3rd forge. every time I build one I find the inadequacy's of the design and start planing the next forge. The one I'm building now looks similar to yours except with a blower.
I looked for a long time to find the difference between Durablanket, and Insawool, and found none for our purposes.
 
Actually I have not read that before, thanks for the link.

This kind of goes along with what I have been talking about it would be nice to have a forge section. Now, I realize that no two people have the same opinion on everything but, when it's this hard to find actual information on the subject! It would be nice to have one place to go look. Then you can sort through the info and glean out what pretains to your particular forege application you are using or building!
When I first started this forge I asked several about an air blower but was told you didn't need one with a propane forge.
Kevin's site talks about a blower, you talk about a blower and I have heard others talk about blowers. So now I am wondering if I should have designed in a blower????????
Anyone out there who has tried a propane forge with a blower and one without want to address this issue? Kevin, anyone? I still have time to address a blower problem now before I get all the lining and plumbing done on and find out it doesn't work.
Guys I do appreciate every bit of info I get on this subject. I figure after a while I might figure this out on my own but, sometimes those learning curves can be a beach!!!!!:D:rolleyes:
 
Cliff,

Some folks would say, if a blown burner is not over blown, and is well designed (Kevin's is), it can use less gas for the heat and is easier to tune for reducing/neutral/oxidizing. I've been around over blown and poorly designed blower-burner forges and I'd take a Larry Zoeller "side-arm" burner set up everytime. The forge we have has three "side-arm" burners in 6" x 24". We can use two of them and still weld, easily. The forge will run at 4-5psi but needs 10-13psi to weld. I think many simple atmospheric burners will work well (forge or weld) in these ranges. The hi-tech atmospherics (T-Rex is an example) will run with a well designed blown burner all day... Jesus Hernandez runs a 1" T-Rex and he is a very happy dog...

Given that a person builds a reasonably sound forge/burner, they all work. What "BikerMikeArchery" mentioned is the reality of them, though... "Every time I build one I find the inadequacy's of the design and start planing the next forge."

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, I guess this one of those things that can have more that one answer! Or as ole carpenter once told me this one of those things that makes you go Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm!
Guess you had to be there it was funny when he said and put hand to his chin!:D :D :D
Guys, I really have enjoyed all the converstation on this subject and have gleaned some really good info.:thumbup:

So I guess I'll take what I have learned and go get my feet wet, so to speak!
 
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