Forge... Insides?

A

AlphaMoose

Joined
Sep 1, 2016
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I just realized I have no idea what the fire-brick like material inside my forge is. I haven't used the thing in over a decade and I remember the stuff needs to be badly rebricked (reclayed?). My question is what the heck is that stuff so I can buy a tub.
 
Most people use Satanite. There are other refractive coatings you can put on top of that as well. I get my Satanite from High Temp Tools.
 
If you're taking the time to reline, try bubble alumina for the floor and use one of the ITC coatings (reflective IR, can't remember the numbers...) over the refractory lining. You'll have a much more efficient forge with a tough floor. Both of those are available from High Temp as well...

-Eric
Overmountain Knife and Tool
Overmountain.us.com
 
It depends on the type forge. Is it a coal/charcoal forge, a propane forge, blown or venturi, etc.
Take some photos for a good answer.

There are several materials and methods, depending on the above question - Kao-wool and satanite, just satanite, rammable refractory, cast refractory, fireclay, etc.


A thin coat of ITC-100, as a final coat, is highly recommended on propane forges.
 
Yes, it's a propane forge. I believe it is more geared toward farriers usage but it gets plenty hot enough to weld and served me well back in the day. If only I'd had the skill to use it better :P
 
If you're going to be doing welding I'd highly recommend the bubble alumina that Overmountain mentioned. I was having real problems with my flux eating my forge lining until I put in a layer of it on the floor. Awesome stuff.
 
If it is a NC Tool company forge, like the Whisper series, the lining is ins-board and some rammable refractory. You can replace it with wool and satanite, but the 1" refractory board is far easier to use. Hightemptools.com sells it. You can use satanite for mortar at the joints for a smooth transition. NC Forge sells re-lining kits, but you can get teh materials for less from HHT&R.
 
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