Forge question

[SteelSlaver]

I wasn't happy with my forge burner and wanted to be able to do multi fuel so I messed it up. I used to have 1 big burner coming in the top. I redid it with 3 smaller burners in the side. The burners are 1" schedule 80 alloy 20 pipe (about 3/4" ID) these are socket welded to a carbon 45 and then a 1" to 1 1/2" swedge with a set of 3/8 couplings coming in each side. Right now one coupling has a ss compression fitting that allows a 3/8" stainless tube to penetrate and the 3/8 tube has a .030 copper wire feed tip for an orifice. (the other couplings are for future oil injection) Above the swedges is a 1 1/2" gate valve and then a small squirrel cage fan. The 3 burners are set up as shown each fan will have a separate sw. Each fuel tube has its own needle valve. I have a adjustable regulator on the propane tank. I did a test run before I wired in the switches. No matter how I regulated the fuel or air could I get above 1800. I tried with some burners shut off and air valves closed. Run 1 burner, 2 burners 3 burners etc. Tried various pressures on the propane. Even tried another thermo couple and hooked it to my pid to check temps. Still no great temps. want to be able to go to 2300+. Suggestions

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

You are starving the burner. Take off the welding tip. It is needed in a venturi burner, not a blown forge. In a blown forge the gas just needs to be let in somewhere along the center of the air flow. With enough gas flowing, that monster should melt the lining.
Here is what I would do (after taking off the welding tip):
Shut the air valve to nearly closed, so just a little air is flowing.Set the tank gauge at 3 PSI. Put a piece of burning newspaper in the chamber.Turn on the gas needle valve and when the burner is lit, open it up a bit more until yellow flames are rolling out the front of the forge. Open the air some more, the more gas. This should be done until the flame is inside the forge and there is just a little dragon's breath coming out. You can keep opening the air/gas and raise the tank gauge if needed. The burner should be screaming . Don't melt your thermocouple.
Stacy

 

[SteelSlaver]

OK, Thanks, I will pull the welding tips, I never had one in my original 2" single burner, Thanks. On the oil side I plan to plum it in with the same type needle valve set up and use a electric fuel pump to feed filtered oil either warmed or thinned with diesel. The forge now has 2 layers of KaoWool with a coat of rigidizer. If it gets hot enough I will be adding a layer of Satinite. Jim

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Don't run that forge without at least 1/4" of satanite. The wool will burn up and it will blow fibers all over the place..... and it will end up in your lungs. After the satanite is cured ( make a low temperature burn to completely dry it after a couple days), coat it with ITC-100. If you plan on running the forge at welding temps, you will need it.

This is serious.....not an option

Stacy

 

[SteelSlaver]

Stacy. The rigidizer is a liquid that a industrial furnace company gave me to apply to the inner coat of the KoaWool. It formed a hard skin on the wool. I am going to add a coat of Satanite and am picking it up this Friday. I will be having it right. Jim