Forge Scale removal

Another point to make is that if you have major and really THICK scale on your final forging, your heats were probably a little to high

I'm probably wrong but I seem to remember reading somewhere that scale formation doesn't really occur anywhere below 1600 Deg (I think) which is rather aggressive temp for final forging.

I always do my last 4-5 heats at just barely red with light hammer blows on a wet anvil.

I can pretty much clean my scale off with a hand wire brush.

(the above only really applies to 10xx w1-2 steels that I use) YMMV AFAIK
 
i run a venturi hybrid burner and my last 6 ish heats were at only 1 psi or less almost half a psi. very sofe blows also. the scale wasnt think i dont think just some foul hits of a hammer caused me more work then need be.ill be finish up 2 of them in next few days.
 
I like the way this thread is moving.:thumbup:
I am always shooting for No Scale; I hate scale. It makes things dull.
Working at proper heat and at the correct atmosphere goes a long way toward limiting the amount of scale produced.
Working quickly while the metal is at temperature is something that really impacts the amount of scale.
I clean billets with the leading edge of a W2 file, works better than any brush I have ever used.
I don't grind much scale these days; When I am finished forging, the steel is clean. I hate scale.:mad:

Fred
 
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fred can u explain your method a little more. are u saying that u file the billet or blade everytime u pull it out of the forge? i think im running my forge right is blue flame coming out the front. which i belive is a reducing atmosphere or neutral. how fast do u flroge blade takes me approx 1 hr once i have the round flat and at a thickness i want
 
Dakota 11 said:
fred can u explain your method a little more. are u saying that u file the billet or blade everytime u pull it out of the forge? i think im running my forge right is blue flame coming out the front. which i belive is a reducing atmosphere or neutral. how fast do u flroge blade takes me approx 1 hr once i have the round flat and at a thickness i want
Click to expand...

Dakota,

I don't use the part of the file with the teeth on it, I use the sharp edge at the tip. Like a wood chisel.
I use a 14 inch lath bastard with a wood handle on it to keep my hands away from the heat. Place the billet on the anvil and "shave" the scale from the surface of the steel. Another benefit of using a file like this is; you can feel/see ever imperfection in the surface of the steel as you are forging. I know my billets are a lot cleaner now that I switched to using a file.
The fewer heats it takes to get the work done the better. Rule of thumb.
Fred
 
Windex will also cut the acid in the vinegar to neutralize and stop the action.

The side grinder is good and fast but you need a very steady hand or you will find a groove when you finish out the blade.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
I like the way this thread is moving.:thumbup:
I am always shooting for No Scale; I hate scale. It makes things dull.
Working at proper heat and at the correct atmosphere goes a long way toward limiting the amount of scale produced.
Working quickly while the metal is at temperature is something that really impacts the amount of scale.
I clean billets with the leading edge of a W2 file, works better than any brush I have ever used.
I don't grind much scale these days; When I am finished forging, the steel is clean. I hate scale.:mad:

Fred
Click to expand...

Fred, on the first page you say you use a angle grinder, "cheap and effective". ?
 
psycho78 said:
They make a black anti-scale powder that I saw Terry Primos use on his tutorials. Is that stuff more trouble than it's worth?
Click to expand...

Psycho, the stuff that Terry uses is a powder used during the heat treating phase. It's not designed to keep scale off while your hitting the blade forging it out.
 
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