Forge welded axe questions

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Feb 2, 2010
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Lately I have taken a strong interest in axes and am now considering making one. The problem is that I don't have any stock that is big enough to make a small bushcrafting axe. What I do have is plenty of old broken truck leaf springs, which would be fantastic. The other problem is I would have to forge weld about 4 layers thick, then punch and drift the eye probably right between 2 layers to make it properly centered. My concern is the billet de-laminating when I do this.
Even if I do get a really good forge weld, are the chances of it de-laminating still pretty high? I have considered wrapping it around a mandrel, then forge welding in order to make the eye, but I want it to be more like a traditional American felling axe with a proper hammer head, rather than like a Viking axe that doesn't really have one.
If you guys have any suggestions, I'd love to hear 'em
 
Use a piece of 1"X2" 1018 and forge weld in a piece of 1084 for the cutting bit.will give you a strong body that will take the beating and a sharp cutting edge.
Stan
 
Wow guys, thanks for the input. It has really helped.
Woodzman, that was a fantastic thread. That's pretty much exactly what I had in mind, except I was thinking about using 2 separate pieces of stock, whether it be mild steel or 5160 I hadn't yet decided. If I used mild steel then obviously I would weld in a piece of 5160 for the bit. I guess I really had my doubts about an axe actually holding up to the abuse if the eye was between two layers.

Once again, thanks to all who have helped me,
Dave
 
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