forges need a answer nc whisperer deluxe

I started with a NC model, I forget what it was. I was lined with soft fire brick and the borax from welding ate through it fairly quickly. You may be able to over come that by lining the floor with a hard fire brick or some other resistant material. The forge got plenty hot, but the soft fire brick was a problem.
Jason
 
The three burner NC forge will get hot enough for welding, but just...
and they can be disassembled for rebuild.
The Chile forge will get hotter, and do it on less gas, but is a welded unit
so would be more difficult to rebuild.....
 
Three burner whisper daddy here and it does get hot enough to weld. The soft floor is a problem, but NC sells a liner for it and I have had no problems. Not the most gas efficient though, but they do the job just fine.
 
I use a whisper lowboy for general forging and demos. It welds just fine. Order some bubble alumina from Darren Ellis and put a layer on the floor. Or as I did, wait until the floor gets ate up and replace it with cast refractory.
Stacy
 
worked with it this morning makeing a a set of fullerd bar shoes ........welded excelent! thanks for the info it is a great forge
 
I've used an NC whisper lowboy for years but never put flux in mine, just blade forging.

10 years ago, I built a Don Fogg style vertical forge for welding and will never use anything else.
 
argel55 said:
Check out Uncle Al's forges at www.riversidemachine.net his are forced air which save you on gas and get plenty hot.
Click to expand...

not to poke you at all, really

this is one of my little pet peeves


a properly built forced air burner will inject a fuel / air mixture in the proper amount appropriate to the internal volume of the forge

a properly built Venturi (atmospheric) burner will inject a fuel / air mixture in the proper amount appropriate to the internal volume of the forge



Properly built and tuned there should be little or no difference in your fuel consumption.........


the REASON (imho) that this keeps coming up is because a venturi can and does require a good bit more tinkering to get tuned in just right.
Most people have never looked at matching their orifice to the forge size or spent any time whatsoever adjusting their flare for a proper air flow

usually they just keep cranking up the PSI until they feel their hot enough, and then choke off the air flow until they see flame out the door so they think they get a neutral or reducing atmosphere.....

I have both and I regularly use both
 
Stephan is right.
The thing that makes a forge capable of more heat is more BTUs being produced,not higher pressure. The pressure at the gauge is dependant on the orifice it is being pushed through. 15 PSI through a .035 MIG tip is equivalent to 2-3 PSI through a 1/4 valve. 1-2PSI of natural gas through a 3/4" pipe will produce a lot more BTUs.
Stacy
 
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Hello:

As someone with intimate knowledge of the NC Tool Co two burner "knifemaker"...they do get plenty hot to weld in..
As for the soft floor...I usually put down a 3/4" layer of plain kitty litter and use a sacrifical piece of either kiln shelf or stainless steel to catch the flux drips..

been doing that for oh...25 years now....

Ref fuel..as stated before...there shold be no fifference between a venturi or a blower. I use both (different forges) one for forging and weling...one for HT

NVHammerHead
 
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